06-10-2008, 02:27 PM
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#12 (permalink)
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Super Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Where the women are scarce and the sheep are scared.
Posts: 1,753
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hcpcjj
First of all, many thanks to everyone who posted their wisdom. The clutch replacement was a success and I'm back on the road. The instructions listed above were extremely useful, especially the torque specifications.
You were correct, the slave cylinder was shot. As it turns out, the throwout bearing failed and took the slave cylinder with it.
As I mentioned earlier, I used the Perfection Clutch Set from Advance. It had everything I needed with the exception of the slave. It came with a flywheel, pressure plate, clutch disk, pilot bearing and alignment tool. Quality looked to be very good (at least as good as the original). Around $400. Slave cost another $90.
Some things I learned along the way:
I didn't drop the exhaust and marked/disconnected the drive shaft from the transmission. If you take out the 2 bolts holding the carrier bearing, it gives you room to pull the shaft out and leave the yoke in place. (this keeps the transmission oil in place throughout the replacement). I bungied the drive shaft up and out of the way.
The posters were correct, I don't see how it would be possible to get the transmission out/in by just disconnecting the bellhousing from the engine. The 2 upper transmission bolts were easy once we fastened about 6 extensions together and used the ratchet in the blank area behind the yoke. The natural play in the extensions allows it to curve around the transmission and still gives you plenty of torque.
The shifter DEFINITELY needs to be in 3rd gear position. A transmission jack aids greatly in the reassembly and was able to get it in myself (bad shoulder and all). I think you risk too much trying to use a floor jack.
At any rate, my undying gratitude and thanks to all for your help. Great forum!
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Glad I could help. 
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