idiot lights.....68 lemans - Pontiac GTO Forum
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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-31-2012, 06:01 PM Thread Starter
 
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idiot lights.....68 lemans

I hate to keep bothering you guys with all the little problems I'm finding with this car, but I figure who better to ask, then the guys that have been through it?

Idiot lights.......
My oil pressure light works perfect, turn key on, light is on. start the engine, in a couple seconds light goes off....

Generator light....
turn key on, and no light..... when I crank over engine it comes on, but as soon as engine starts and I let off the key, the light goes off.... Isn't the light suppose to be on when the key is in the ON position ? Well, it is not.

Temp light.....
This light I cannot get to come on at anytime. I changed the light bulb, and still nothing... I unhooked the wire at the temp sender, and nothing..... So then I grounded the wire at the sender to a good ground, and still nothing.... I did that with the key on, still no temp light...

I'm really not sure what to try next.... any ideas would be great... thanks guys...
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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-31-2012, 10:18 PM
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Place the positive lead of your volt meter on the battery positive post, connect the negative lead of the meter to the dark green t-stat wire (unpluged from the temp sensor), turn on the switch. You should read 12-13 volts. If you don't check the grounding for the keyswitch.

The idiot lights receive their positive voltage thru the pink wires, check the splice points behind the dash.

Randy


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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-31-2012, 10:26 PM Thread Starter
 
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Place the positive lead of your volt meter on the battery positive post, connect the negative lead of the meter to the dark green t-stat wire (unpluged from the temp sensor), turn on the switch. You should read 12-13 volts. If you don't check the grounding for the keyswitch.

The idiot lights receive their positive voltage thru the pink wires, check the splice points behind the dash.
Thanks, I will give that a try tomorrow...

How about the Gen light, shouldn't that light be on in the ON position? Mine only comes on in the cranking position.
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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-01-2013, 09:57 AM Thread Starter
 
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Ok, so I checked the temp wire today, and it was just the opposite of what it's suppose to do. I lad 12 volts with the key OFF, but when I turned the ON, the voltage went down to .500V. I wonder if I have a ground problem? The guy before me had painted the firewall, inner fenders, etc.... I'm wondering if he cleaned contact surfaces under ground straps? I might have to do some more digging.
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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-01-2013, 10:19 AM
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Check for blown fuses. On my 69 there's one in particular that supplies power to the gauges/indicator lights. Now, I know what you're thinking - "but the lights come on sometimes so it can't be a blown fuse". Yes it can. The way the alternator indicator light circuit works will feed power to the lights/gauges "in reverse" even if the fuse is blown (and it will also make your alternator light "act funny").

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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-01-2013, 10:24 AM Thread Starter
 
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Check for blown fuses. On my 69 there's one in particular that supplies power to the gauges/indicator lights. Now, I know what you're thinking - "but the lights come on sometimes so it can't be a blown fuse". Yes it can. The way the alternator indicator light circuit works will feed power to the lights/gauges "in reverse" even if the fuse is blown (and it will also make your alternator light "act funny").

Bear
But my oil pressure light works perfect, wouldn't that rule that out? And IT actually did check all the fuses before looking for anything else, so ???
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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-02-2013, 12:12 PM
 
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i bet your bulb is burnt out. you should not see voltage at your sending unit. think of the sending unit as a switch. it is open (off) when cold. it closes (on) when overheated. it completes the circuit for the light buulb by giving the negative potential. with your key in the on position, placing the the sending unit wire to the negative battery post or engine block the light should go on. if the bulb is good, you may want to ohm out from the sending unit to the bulb socket. the wire goes through the bulkhead connector. i wired plenty of these cars. this past weekend the 66 i just got had the temperature bulb plugged into the brake light indicator.
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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-02-2013, 12:22 PM Thread Starter
 
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Well, I did replace bulb right away, and that wasn't it... should the temp light come on with just the key on? Not running, but just key ON? If so, how does the sender ground the circuit then when the engine is cold?
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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-02-2013, 12:58 PM
 
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the temp light comes on when you engine is overheating. it basically warns you to turn off your engine or you will do damage to it. it only gets a negative to the bulb at that time. oherwise the switch (sending unit) is off.

jim
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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-02-2013, 01:24 PM
 
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idiot lights

Like '66 tires, said-check that the bulbs are plugged into their proper holes behind the dash. That'll throw the whole ball of wax off in a New York minute. Also check dash grounds.
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