me and my brother are working on getting my dads 66 (389, 4bbl, 4 speed)
running again its been siting in the garage and hasn't been started since probly the mid seventys. He insists that we need to use this valvoline racing oil (i think its 40 weight) that is from like the 70s, its in a round can hasnt been opened, but i was wondering if any of you guys have some recomendations for what to use instead of this oil
me and my brother are working on getting my dads 66 (389, 4bbl, 4 speed)
running again its been siting in the garage and hasn't been started since probly the mid seventys. He insists that we need to use this valvoline racing oil (i think its 40 weight) that is from like the 70s, its in a round can hasnt been opened, but i was wondering if any of you guys have some recomendations for what to use instead of this oil
I wouldn't use it.....
I would think any high quality oil would suffice. 5 or 10 W 30. 40W IMO is a little too thick.
This is what we have done so far tell me if im missing something:
rebuilt carb
new fuel tank and fuel lines
new plugs wires cap rotor and points
new valve cover,oil pan gaskets
new front and rear oil seals
changed differential lube
new tranny seals
new tranny lube
new clutch
flushed radiator
new belts and hoses
new brakes all around
thats all i i can think of right now but it seems like we ve done more than that
For oil, just go pick up some 10w30 and replace it after 500 miles or so with some fresh oil.
Nope. If the engine is just getting running again, and it hasn't been opend up and rebuilt you gotta use a 20w oil, maybe 30w (careful). 5w and 10w are out of the question. Even when you do rebuild an old poncho motor, you can't use 5w on the street. Cause those old motors, when they aren't fresh, like to burn a hell of a lot of oil, and gaskets and rings might not be what they used to be. That little extra weight and viscosity keeps the oil from going into your cylinders and puffing out the dreaded old car grey smoke. After a rebuild, take the old pontiac on the freeway and get ready for your oil to just evaporate in a matter of hours. Trust me I know the old motors fairly well. I ain't jim hand, but old pontiacs have been all I have driven, my dad has owned at least a dozen 60s-70s pontiacs, even my younger bro has an old pontiac. Remember what GTO stands for Gas, Tires and OIL!!! Rebuilt change at 500, if it isn't rebuilt, you won't have to change the oil after 500 miles cause you will have already added two quarts to keep it full.
20w50 is a good oil. You can go to 10w30 on fully rebuilt motors. Don't use the old stuff.
This is what we have done so far tell me if im missing something:
rebuilt carb
new fuel tank and fuel lines
new plugs wires cap rotor and points
new valve cover,oil pan gaskets
new front and rear oil seals
changed differential lube
new tranny seals
new tranny lube
new clutch
flushed radiator
new belts and hoses
new brakes all around
thats all i i can think of right now but it seems like we ve done more than that
Well, I wouldn't go with too heavy of any oil. You'll need to change it again at about 500 anyway.
Before you start it, you can get cylinder oil from a parts store. Put a little down each plug hole. Then, before you start it, manually crank it. You can use the starter if you're not worried about burning it out. This will make sure everything’s freed and lubed before the stress of combustion. Oh, and also make sure you clean the hell out of the ground and its contact point.
I have a few cars in storage. I got them ready once before, and I did the same items you’ve covered and the above. Don’t be shocked if it runs rough as hell at first. If it keeps running rough, give it a full tune up, to include a new distributor cap. It’s common for plastics to crack after sitting.
Well, I wouldn't go with too heavy of any oil. You'll need to change it again at about 500 anyway.
Before you start it, you can get cylinder oil from a parts store. Put a little down each plug hole. Then, before you start it, manually crank it. You can use the starter if you're not worried about burning it out. This will make sure everything’s freed and lubed before the stress of combustion. Oh, and also make sure you clean the hell out of the ground and its contact point.
I have a few cars in storage. I got them ready once before, and I did the same items you’ve covered and the above. Don’t be shocked if it runs rough as hell at first. If it keeps running rough, give it a full tune up, to include a new distributor cap. It’s common for plastics to crack after sitting.
What about some pics?
hey, mike. the older motors used 10w40, but 20w50 is what most use. not good for the winter. I'm shore she wont she it. 20w50 cling better, but still flows good when warm. if it's been stored for that long,I'd run her for 100miles or intill been at operating temp, for 1 hour then change the oil again. there could be alot of cabon that fell from the valley pan and the outside of the cylinder walls. had motors so bad I'd fill in up with diesel runit for 10-15 min. drain it fill with oil run for 1 hour change it again. hope it helps. sound like you have a sweet ride enjoy.
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the older motors used 10w40, but 20w50 is what most use. not good for the winter. I'm shore she wont she it. 20w50 cling better, but still flows good when warm. if it's been stored for that long,I'd run her for 100miles or intill been at operating temp, for 1 hour then change the oil again. there could be alot of cabon that fell from the valley pan and the outside of the cylinder walls. had motors so bad I'd fill in up with diesel runit for 10-15 min. drain it fill with oil run for 1 hour change it again. hope it helps. sound like you have a sweet ride enjoy.
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