I am getting ready to redo my front end (bushings, tie rods) and thought it would be a good time to convert my front drum brakes to discs. There are no salvage yards in my area that have a donor car. I currently have a power booster with a dual piston MC. I’m looking at this kit, 1964-72 Chevy, Pontiac, Buick, Oldsmobile, GM A Body, Front Stock Spindle Disc Brake Conversion Kit 19110 for $340.00 from performance online. It’s about an hour drive, will save shipping. Has anyone had experience with this kit or performance online? I have a question about the brake lines. I will need a new proportioning valve to replace the existing metering block. Are there fittings or adaptors that I can use or do I need to replace the hard lines? Thanks in advance for your input.
I don't have experience with the company, but looking at the kit on their web site, the parts appear to be GM factory parts. The only item not included is the proportioning valve. You've got options there. I'm not familiar with what the factory setup in 67 was for disc brakes with regard to the valve. You could go 'factory', or you could go with an aftermarket adjustable valve, like the one from Wilwood. If you go that route, you'd leave your metering block in place and install the valve downstream from the block in your rear brake line. That's what I did on my 69 when I converted to Wilwood 4-wheel disc brakes. I located the valve about halfway down the driver's side frame rail, tucked up inside it, spliced into the line. To do the job yourself you'll need tools to make double inverted flares on tubing and the associated fittings. I highly recommend practicing on pieces of scrap tubing first until you're sure you can get them right. You just get one chance on your brake line. If you get it "too short" you'll wind up having to replace the line, and getting to the section that goes up and over the rear frame crossmember usually requires separating the body from the frame a little bit to get clearance.
I converted my 67 GTO to front discs using a kit from Stainless Steel Brakes and am very happy with the results. Going with a kit will minimize the trips to your local parts dealer but you will still have to do a good bit of fabricating for a tight-looking installation. The prop valve that 05GTO posted is the same one I used; finding a suitable mounting bracket was the challenging part. Get a top-quality double flaring tool like Matco or Imperial and some tubing benders and you'll be in business. I found it helpful to mock up the new brakelines using lead solder to get the bends right.
I used rite stuff for my conversion. I gotthe 4 wheel brake kit with stainless lines and drilled a nd slotted rotors. The gave me stainless braded front lines for free. Its a stock gm 4 wheel brake kit but it came with eveything u need install from booster to bolts. After i paintes the dust shilds spindles and the calipers it looks really good. Verry happy with kit and it cost about $1000 for eveything.
Thanks for your replies. I was able to buy the same kit with drilled and slotted rotors and stainless lines on performanceonline’s eBay store for a few dollars more. Bear your on the right track. I talked to Wilwood and they agreed with you, will install an adjustable proportioning valve in line between the block and rear brakes. Need to practice my flaring skills. Bobby did the brake updates come after the photo in your signature?
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