Thanks for the replies guys. No offense taken!
I know my light is on #1
wire. Driver side at the front closest to radiator. Two different guns got same reading. Neither gun of the dial back variety.
Plug order on cap is right. 1,2,3,4... Just kidding. : ) 18436572 counterclockwise.
I pulled distributor last night. Put #1
piston 12 degrees before TDC on the compression stroke (watched intake valve open and close to confirm that), then took off the distributor cap. You would expect rotor to be pointing right at #1
terminal. It was noticeably past #1
terminal. I think this confirms that indeed it has a LOT of initial advance. Rules out the gun and the tape being the problem I think.
I can play with weights and springs, but what has me stumped is why would it want 60 degrees? Doesn't make sense.
If cam and crank gear were out of whack it wouldn't want THAT much advance would it? Timing chain and engine build only has about 1,000 miles on it. (And I've timed it before since the build!) Also, why would it run reasonably well if cam and crank were way off.
When I degreed in the cam, I remember talking with a builder about advancing or retarding the cam itself. I remember he was asking if I had a crank offset key. I can't remember what I did on that if anything. But if the cam was a little advanced or retarded, it wouldn't dramatically change my ignition timing, right? 60 degrees at idle isn't a tweak.
I really appreciate all ideas and help.