Well I finally contacted the machine shop regarding the cleaning and magafluxing of my engine.
I am disappointed because I waited a month and a half to hear from him and it turns out it was already done. Why didn’t he call me when he was finished? He told me it cleaned up fine and checked out good with no cracks. He did mention that the cylinder walls can’t be cleared with just a .030 bore, which means I will have to bore the cylinders .060 and use a standard size 400 (4.12 bore) forged, dished piston.
He then asked me what I wanted to do.
I mentioned I was looking for a primarily stock, street engine that looks correct on the outside with the necessary changes to enable it to operate on 91 octane BP gas.
Then he stressed I can’t bring any parts. I will have to buy his parts. I really don’t have anything other than a new set of cam bearings and some slightly used Crane rocker arms, valve springs, and screw-in rocker arm studs/poly lock nuts. I asked what his markup was on parts and he just said, “it’s fair.” I know he uses Diamond pistons and he wants to use Eagle rods. He also pushed for a roller cam when I had dropped the engine off a month and a half ago.
I told him I was going to send him an e-mail detailing what I am looking for and how this engine will be used. I have no idea what his shop rate is. I guess once I let him know what my goals are for this engine, he might reply with a parts and labor figure.
I am a little disappointed in that any parts I am interested in using could be shot down. I don’t know what brands he uses. I am interested in using some specific items (for example the BOP one-piece rear main seal) and I will outline that in my e-mail to him.
I want a reliable engine that runs at least as well as it did originally but now using pump gas. I need an engine that doesn’t leak, doesn’t ping, doesn’t overheat, and doesn’t make noises it shouldn’t. I also want to keep all the original, correct ancillary items like the oil pan, push rod cover, timing chain cover, valve covers, intake manifold, AFB carb, and correct ignition. It needs to look OEM on the outside. I’m not trying to wring out the last bit of power out of it.
I will tell him I don’t want, because I don’t need, a roller cam. Especially if he procures it and marks up the price above the already $1,100 they cost in the first place. I don't need to build a $7,000/$8,000 engine to fulfill the need I have for my car.
I will post my e-mail I send him to get your opinion.
The worst thing that can happen is I will just pay him for services rendered and collect my engine and plan on going elsewhere to have it built.
I am disappointed because I waited a month and a half to hear from him and it turns out it was already done. Why didn’t he call me when he was finished? He told me it cleaned up fine and checked out good with no cracks. He did mention that the cylinder walls can’t be cleared with just a .030 bore, which means I will have to bore the cylinders .060 and use a standard size 400 (4.12 bore) forged, dished piston.
He then asked me what I wanted to do.
I mentioned I was looking for a primarily stock, street engine that looks correct on the outside with the necessary changes to enable it to operate on 91 octane BP gas.
Then he stressed I can’t bring any parts. I will have to buy his parts. I really don’t have anything other than a new set of cam bearings and some slightly used Crane rocker arms, valve springs, and screw-in rocker arm studs/poly lock nuts. I asked what his markup was on parts and he just said, “it’s fair.” I know he uses Diamond pistons and he wants to use Eagle rods. He also pushed for a roller cam when I had dropped the engine off a month and a half ago.
I told him I was going to send him an e-mail detailing what I am looking for and how this engine will be used. I have no idea what his shop rate is. I guess once I let him know what my goals are for this engine, he might reply with a parts and labor figure.
I am a little disappointed in that any parts I am interested in using could be shot down. I don’t know what brands he uses. I am interested in using some specific items (for example the BOP one-piece rear main seal) and I will outline that in my e-mail to him.
I want a reliable engine that runs at least as well as it did originally but now using pump gas. I need an engine that doesn’t leak, doesn’t ping, doesn’t overheat, and doesn’t make noises it shouldn’t. I also want to keep all the original, correct ancillary items like the oil pan, push rod cover, timing chain cover, valve covers, intake manifold, AFB carb, and correct ignition. It needs to look OEM on the outside. I’m not trying to wring out the last bit of power out of it.
I will tell him I don’t want, because I don’t need, a roller cam. Especially if he procures it and marks up the price above the already $1,100 they cost in the first place. I don't need to build a $7,000/$8,000 engine to fulfill the need I have for my car.
I will post my e-mail I send him to get your opinion.
The worst thing that can happen is I will just pay him for services rendered and collect my engine and plan on going elsewhere to have it built.