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Old 04-19-2013, 11:29 PM   #1 (permalink)
 
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Common GTO problems?

What's up everyone. Current owner of an older 80's Supra and 90's Camaro. Looking to buy this 2006 gto I saw at car max. Has 70k miles and I'm scheduled for a test drive Sunday.

Just wondering if I can get some pointers at what to look at in regards to problems?

How good is the car? Reliable? Anything I should know about these cars?
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Old 04-20-2013, 06:33 AM   #2 (permalink)
 
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If someone else has driven this car 70K how can we judge the car. A guy that takes car of these cars can get 200-300k without to much maintaince, other have beat the crap out if them for less miles and it will need lots of work.

Most common issues with less miles:

Wire harness can rub on metal support behind glove box. Do a search for more information.

Fuel line could rub on fuel rail cover near drivers rear of engine. Will burn car to the ground if it does rub a hole in the line.

Radius Rod bushings should be replaced as OEM bushing were not the best.

Radiator tank will leak at some time

Battery drain issues if car is stored for 2-3 weeks without running.

Rear spring sag causing improper tire wear.

Strut rub causing improper tire wear.

Leather on top of rear seats gets hard if not treated, seams will split or seperate.

Steering wheel spokes will delaminate and look bad.

Head Liner could sag if its a southern state car



Have fun with your search.
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Old 04-20-2013, 07:18 AM   #3 (permalink)
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There seems to be an epidemic of newbees coming on here and asking the same questions over and over and over.

There is a SEARCH ENGINE on this forum that will answer every concern people have.... USE IT. After answering the same questions over the past 8 years it gets really really old.

This is like the 3rd or 4th same question in the past 2 weeks.

The search engine is here for ALL to utilize.

Having said that ^^^^^^

My Opinion: It would be in anyone's best interest that is considering purchasing a new gen GTO to take someone with you that knows this car. MOST people posting issues on this car are 2-4th owners of this car that purchased it with issues caused by the previous owner(s). DO NOT take a salesman's word on this car, MOST are as ignorant on this car is one who is buying one with no clue on it.

GET an extended warranty. You will more than likely be glad you did.
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Last edited by GTO JUDGE; 04-20-2013 at 08:10 AM.
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Old 04-20-2013, 07:29 AM   #4 (permalink)
 
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...remember 700Rocket's list are things that go bad on some GTOs and not all...I have not experienced yet since buying mine new in 2007 but I have taken some preventative steps where I can to ensure I don't experience them...check the stickies...

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Old 04-20-2013, 08:24 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 700Rocket View Post
If someone else has driven this car 70K how can we judge the car. A guy that takes car of these cars can get 200-300k without to much maintaince, other have beat the crap out if them for less miles and it will need lots of work.

Most common issues with less miles:

Wire harness can rub on metal support behind glove box. Do a search for more information.

THIS ISSUE IS MORE COMMON THAN PEOPLE THINK AND CAN CAUSE BCM FAILURES.

Fuel line could rub on fuel rail cover near drivers rear of engine. Will burn car to the ground if it does rub a hole in the line.

2004 CARS, IN 2005 A SPECIAL METAL TAPE WAS INSTALLED ON THE FUEL LIKE TO ELIMINATE THIS, STILL ITS WISE TO INSULATE THE AREA.

Radius Rod bushings should be replaced as OEM bushing were not the best.

Radiator tank will leak at some time

MOST CAUSED BY THOSE MISTAKING THE 'GUNK' IN THE RADIATOR AS A BREAKDOWN OF DEXCOOL AND FLUSHING THE RADIATOR. THE GUNK IS IN THERE TO HELP PREVENT CORROSION AND INTERNAL WEAR. PEOPLE BECAUSE OF THEIR IGNORANCE ARE REMOVING THE DEXCOOL AND REPLACING WITH NO PROTECTION THIS COOLING SYSTEM IS TO HAVE AND ARE FINDING RADIATOR FAILURES.

Battery drain issues if car is stored for 2-3 weeks without running.

NEVER HEARD OF THIS. GET A GOOD BATTERY. MY CAR IS 8 YEARS OLD AND WILL SIT MONTHS AT A TIME AND NO ISSUES. INVEST IN A BATTERY TENDER FOR EXTENDED SIT TIMES.

Rear spring sag causing improper tire wear.

REAR SPRINGS FROM FACTORY ARE NOT GIVING PROPER REAR END RIDE HEIGHT AND IS PUTTING TOO MUCH WEIGHT ON THE INSIDE OF TIRES CAUSING ACCELERATED WEAR. IF YOU HAVE 17' TIRES AND CANNOT NOT SLIDE 3 FINGERS IN WIDTH WISE FROM TOP OF TIRE TO UNDER FENDER THE CAR MAY BE SUFFERING FROM SAG (UNLESS DROP SPRINGS WERE INSTALLED)

Strut rub causing improper tire wear.

Leather on top of rear seats gets hard if not treated, seams will split or seperate.

TREATED OR NOT IN SUNLIGHT OR NOT, SEAM SPLIT IS COMMON, THIS IS FROM A POOR LEATHER QUALITY.

Steering wheel spokes will delaminate and look bad.

NOT ALL ... MANY APPLY CHEMICALS TO THE SPOKES TO ENHANCE THEM AND CAUSING A REACTION TO THE FINISH.

Head Liner could sag if its a southern state car



Have fun with your search.
^^^^^^
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Old 04-20-2013, 03:06 PM   #6 (permalink)
 
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Parasetic battery drain issue is real and it really didn't matter what battery you had installed, it will drain it dead. Lots a post on the big board of guys having dead battery issues. The BCM has a built in timer that was set wrong from the factory and my car would not shut down when the key was pulled. If I started the car every 2-3 day I was fine. If i let it sit for winter storage 2-3 week the battery would be dead. I found that one key item was the radio and amp so I would pull the fuse for them. The next spring I took the car to the dealer and asked them to change the setting, it was at 300 minutes and now it has been set to 10 minutes and the car will shut down. No issues with the battery now.
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Old 04-22-2013, 04:26 PM   #7 (permalink)
 
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the tire wear due to the sag is real but can be rectified. I also had battery drain issues, corrosion at the terminals may have exacerbated mine though.
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Old 04-25-2013, 01:38 PM   #8 (permalink)
 
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Originally Posted by GTO JUDGE View Post
There seems to be an epidemic of newbees coming on here and asking the same questions over and over and over.

There is a SEARCH ENGINE on this forum that will answer every concern people have.... USE IT. After answering the same questions over the past 8 years it gets really really old.

This is like the 3rd or 4th same question in the past 2 weeks.

The search engine is here for ALL to utilize.

Having said that ^^^^^^
lol that is why I dont have many posts....I spend most my time on here searching and reading.
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Old 04-28-2013, 11:08 AM   #9 (permalink)
 
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Red Beard Edited version:
Quote:
Originally Posted by GTO JUDGE View Post
Originally Posted by 700Rocket

Most common issues with less miles:
Wire harness can rub on metal support behind glove box. Do a search for more information.

DURING THE TEST DRIVE CHECK THE OPERATION OF EVERYTHING ELECTRICAL, with the remote lock, unlock, trunk release (distance the key fob works), HVAC controls, radio functions, gauge cluster illumination, drive it for a shit ton of miles with lots of hard right corners (random horn beeps). Traction control on at start is normal, take it off and on. My cluster was replaced at 30k.

Fuel line could rub on fuel rail cover near drivers rear of engine. Will burn car to the ground if it does rub a hole in the line.

PULL THE PLASTIC COVER ON THE DRIVERS SIDE, look at the line for rubbing.

Radiator tank will leak at some time

TANK OR RADIATORS HAVE BEEN KNOWN TO LEAK, check under the front end for wet spots and fluid. My tank was replaced at 24k.

Battery drain issues if car is stored for 2-3 weeks without running.

CHECK THE AGE OF THE BATTERY, if its got a problem sitting idle on a dealers lot will surely kill it. My battery was replaced by GM prior to my original purchase when the car only had 123 miles on it. I assumed the issue was from sitting on the lot but after reading 700rocket's post I've gone hmmmm... since the Delco battery the dealership installed back in 06 is still going strong and my car sits for weeks during the winter without starting or using a tender.

Rear spring sag causing improper tire wear.

REAR SPRINGS FROM FACTORY ARE SAGGED, PERIOD! THIS WAS DUE TO THE CARS BEING TRANSPORTED FROM OZ BEING STRAPPED DOWN FOR OCEAN TRANSPORT THAT TOOK A MONTH TO COMPLETE. Its more pronounced with an IRS suspension and you can check the rear tires for uneven wear occurring on the inside tread. Having 70k on the odo its hard to base ride height because many have installed lowering springs... but if it looks lowered in the rear compared to the fron, chances are they're sagged. I got 28k out of my rear tires before the inner tread was down to the steel mesh. I installed drag springs to raise the ride height slightly and haven't noticed uneven wear after putting 10k on the new rubber. Oh, and my idea of tire rotation is roast off the rears, shift front to back and buy new fronts.

Strut rub causing improper tire wear. AND Radius Rod bushings should be replaced as OEM bushing were not the best.

FRONT SUSPENSION CAN BE PROBLEMATIC, listen for popping, etc with the steering wheel hard over both going forward and reverse. as for the rub, again check for inner tire wear on the edge. Look for cupping on all 4 tires which will indicate either unbalanced tire condition, faulty wheel bearings, loose parts, fatigued springs, weak shock absorbers and alignment issues.

Leather on top of rear seats gets hard if not treated, seams will split or seperate.

VERY COMMON PROBLEM, Mine were repaired 2 years ago, not replaced and have held up. Recently, I noticed the drivers seat back seam at shoulder height is starting to come undone.

Steering wheel spokes will delaminate and look bad.

LOOK FOR BUBBLING IN THE SILVER SPOKE ON THE STEERING WHEEL. Mine was replaced twice several years ago and hasn't reoccurred. I've never used any type of chemicals on the steering wheel.

Head Liner could sag if its a southern state car

I never had this problem.

ADDITIONAL:
1) Check the door handle paint for flaking or pealing.
2) Check the rear carpets for water ingress and the front passenger side. My passenger side door weather stripping had to be replaced.
3) Manual trans, check the clutch master oil color... dark=bad. Check all the fluids, assume nothing!!
4) Check the lip on the rear wheel wells to see if they have been rolled or ground down. This is an unscientific way to quickly check if the car has been maintained in stock condition or modded to accomodate wider rubber so it can transmit a beat down via power adders. (not saying its fool proof, just a quick check)
5) While I'm thinking of beat downs... my GTO's bone stock and like I've previously stated I like to smoke the rear rubber off the rims. This has partly been the cause for my drive shaft carry bearing to fail at 36k. To check this the car should be on a lift.... don't hesitate to make them do it.... push up on either half of the drive shaft and see if it easily moves up. If so look for cracks in the rubber. There are no replacements parts short of changing out the drive shaft completely. While its in the air look the underside over. Red bits in the suspension are generally from Pedders, while blue are from Lovells.... black are stock.
6) Check how stiff the key feels in the ignition when turning it to start the engine. There's a sticking problem that has been an issue for some... mine's a bit tight during the heat of the summer but has never not turned.
7) In addition to getting a Carfax, get a GMVIS report by having a GM dealership run the VIN or posting a request on this link.


Need GMVIS report? - Post in here - LS1GTO.com Forums

Have fun with your search.
^^^^^
Quote:
Originally Posted by 700Rocket View Post
Parasetic battery drain issue is real and it really didn't matter what battery you had installed, it will drain it dead. Lots a post on the big board of guys having dead battery issues. The BCM has a built in timer that was set wrong from the factory and my car would not shut down when the key was pulled. If I started the car every 2-3 day I was fine. If i let it sit for winter storage 2-3 week the battery would be dead. I found that one key item was the radio and amp so I would pull the fuse for them. The next spring I took the car to the dealer and asked them to change the setting, it was at 300 minutes and now it has been set to 10 minutes and the car will shut down. No issues with the battery now.
Thanks for the above info!!!
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