need new rotors, please help!

dustyminpin · 06-11-2007, 12:04 PM

I've pretty much come to the conclusion that the oem rotors on the '06 goats suck ass. I'm tired of feeling like I'm on one of those insert 50 cents for 3 minutes of fun sex beds at the local Roach Inn everytime I hit the brake pedal. It's to the point now that when I drape my wrist over the top of the steering wheel while braking at speed, I can't even keep the steering wheel straight, shimmies back and forth like a bitch.

The tire place said to not turn them down, which I wanted them to do. They said to go out and find me some nice cross drilled rotors that dissapate the heat better and go with them, because turning the rotors down could only make the vibrating shimmy worse if they got hot and hit water. I

've looked in my GM performance parts catalog and all they have is hi-po cross drilled rotors for the Caddy CTS-V. I tried Summit and all they have is the universal generic rotors with more holes on the rotor then I've got lugs to cover. They cover more then one size lug pattern. I don't want to have to look at big gaudy holes on my rotor if they don't need to be there. Does anybody know of a site that sells nice cross drilled rotors that are made specifically for the gto. I'll even settle for slotted rotors but I'd rather have the cross drilled. Thanks. Dustin.

GTO JUDGE · 06-11-2007, 12:55 PM

If you want new improved rotors go for it.

Of course those places advise you NOT to turn them. They make money selling rotors not sending them out to be turned.

If it were me, I'd get them turned, then look for new ones... IF the rotors start up again then you'll have a back up set.

I had rotors on my RAM turned against recommendations of Dodge some 50K miles ago.. They are still performing fine.

Turning rotors is not expensive.

Red Bearded Goat · 06-11-2007, 12:59 PM

Dusty,
Start with

Front Brake Enhancements and Upgrades for the GTO (Holden)

Then check out the following sites:

http://marylandspeed.com/product_inf...roducts_id=689

http://www.pfyc.com/pc/GT4002/GTSUSP...ors+-+GTO.html

http://www.jhp.com.au/monaro-gto/gto...rakes.php#prk1

Red Beard

koman · 06-11-2007, 01:24 PM

here's what can be done or at least what my local poncho dealership did. i took it in with the same symptoms as you have, they took the car back and said it'll be ready in two hours. they turned the rotors. end of problem. now will they warp again? i dunno. i was at around 17k miles before i decided to take them in but at around 13k is when it developed and rotating the tires didn't help. if your local poncho dealership won't turn them for no charge then start barking up the ladder until something happens. or if you really want new brakes go with the new brakes. i'm not sure what has caused the brakes to warp whether it's a size thing for the weight of the vehicle or whether it's the iron castings. if it's the iron castings the rotor should have been stress relieved at the first few heat and cool cycles and after being turned should be fine. if it's the other then they'll warp again. ok that's just my nickel's worth. get new brakes if you want them though

noz34me · 06-11-2007, 02:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GTO judge

If you want new improved rotors go for it.

Of course those places advise you NOT to turn them. They make money selling rotors not sending them out to be turned.

Turning rotors is not expensive.

Have to agree; don't believe everything a service shop tells you. Ford dealer told me 3 years ago my battery was nearly kaput and I should replace it before winter.

That was 3 winters ago ('97 Ford F-150 still on original battery). In fact this past winter, I left the lights on with it parked in my field. I thought for sure that was it, but charged it back up, and it's doing fine.

b_a_betterperson · 06-11-2007, 04:48 PM

Agree with the guys above -- unless your rotors are horribly warped, there's no reason why they can't be turned.

Couple of other thoughts:

1. Forget cross drilled rotors. They don't help cooling in a street application and can crack under extremely heat temperatures. They're fine on race cars in dry weather -- but not for street use where it can be wet fairly often. Slots are OK, too, but not necessary.

2. Think about your driving style -- and change it if necessary. If you're constantly warping rotors, try a driving style where you're on the brake pedal for shorter periods of time. Brakes really heat up when the pedal is pushed, even for a little bit, for a prolonged period of time. So think about getting on the brakes -- then getting off. Not slam them on or anything, just good, firm pressure. On certain kinds of racetracks, like Lime Rock Park, this is how you have to drive -- otherwise, you won't have any brakes left half way through an event.

Nice SAP nose, by the way -- love the painted bar across the center section. I'd look into getting the grilles painted, too.

DrFix2Fly · 06-11-2007, 05:59 PM

I have an 04 with underpowered sloppy brakes. I felt the same way about my F-body a few years ago and decided to try some crossdrilled and slotted rotors from raceshopper.com (SP rotors). You can order them anyway you like, crossdrilled, slotted or both. When used with hawk pads I thought they were great all around performers. I plan to get these for my goat soon. I think they were about $400 for the set and they were made to order and I got them within a week from ordering. I recommend them.

gm4life · 06-11-2007, 10:45 PM

I agree with the folks above. Get your rotors turned first, I had some stock '06 rotors turned and the grinder was skipping across the face like a kid playing Hopscotch. They cleaned up good and I have no problems stopping from highspeeds.