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post #11 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-09-2012, 10:09 PM Thread Starter
 
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Taking it to a GM dealer is hard since car will not start and nearest GM dealer is an hour away.
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post #12 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-09-2012, 10:53 PM Thread Starter
 
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Short of towing half complete car an hour how does one go about diagnosing bcm problem? Can it be replaced at home if it is the culprit?
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post #13 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-10-2012, 05:49 AM
 
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Is the security LED on the dash blinking all the time?
Even when the key is in the ign?

2005 GTO Fast - 2004 Z06 Faster - 1984 Honda V65 Magna Fastest
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post #14 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-10-2012, 06:35 AM Thread Starter
 
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Security icon in instrument cluster, car/lock, is blinking all the time.
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post #15 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-10-2012, 07:36 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlaGreyGoat View Post
Is the security LED on the dash blinking all the time?
Even when the key is in the ign?
The security LED is supposed to blink even with the key in the ignition until you turn it to the full on position (just before the start position). The BCM can be changed at home but it will have to be progammed to the car with a Tech 2.

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post #16 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-10-2012, 08:32 AM
 
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I'd try connecting the battery close to the starter to be certain I wasn't losing current due to the length of the wiring from the trunk.
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post #17 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-10-2012, 01:44 PM Thread Starter
 
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I checked BCM wiring behind glove box... all looks perfect with no rubbing or chaffing. I am going to hook battery up up front and make sure that it isn't lack of current. But I would think the 0 gauge wire that came with kit would be more than sufficient. Could I take BCM out and have dealership check just it? If not and I can change BCM at home, but required dealership to program.... would changing it at home help any? IE would it allow car to do anything?
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post #18 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-10-2012, 01:54 PM Thread Starter
 
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HP11... security LED (car/lock) blinks no matter what position the key/ignition is in. Putting key in and turning it does absolutely nothing! It changes nothing.... like I am not doing anything. If I didn't know better I would think the ignition cylinder was bad.... but if that were the case the power seats and locks would still work. Wiring is most peoples first suggestion, but I don't see how the wiring was "good enough" to cause dash to light up and led readout to illuminate before battery swap, but not now with a new and better battery. I am leaning more towards the BCM or some other electrical component. Just wishing there was a good way to check it to insure it is the problem. Kind of scares me taking my car which is almost through with the twin turbos, but still lacking correct amount of coolants, oils, new larger injectors, and correct tune to the dealership where I don't know anyone of the advisers or techs. All it would take is them fixing it and letting it run/revving it up and screw up the whole engine@
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post #19 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-10-2012, 06:53 PM
 
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I've looked over the schematics and here are a few things to check:

In the under hood fuse panel check the Engine and the Main 60a fuses and
check that they have 12v on the fuses. Check the BCM/Engine Control 15a fuse and
the Engine Sensor 15a fuse.
Check the mini relays, replace them one by one with a known good one.
If you grounded the battery in the trunk to the frame, make sure you have
a ground from the frame to the engine.

You say the fob blinks the parking lights, clicks, cuts of the alarm, but doesn't unlock the door.
Does the security LED go off when it clicks to try to unlock the door? It should.

Larry

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post #20 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-10-2012, 06:58 PM Thread Starter
 
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AlaGreyGoat security LED does not go off when keyfob is clicked.

I will go through all the relays and fuses again Wednesday when I am.off during daylight.
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