I did't realize till just recently about the difference in RWHP results between these 2 dyno's. From what I am finding out is that the Mustang gives you much more accurate real world numbers. There is at least a 10 to 15 percent difference. I had my car tyno tuned a few times on a dyno jet and I was happy with the numbers, well over 435 RWHP. I just had it on a Mustang and the numbers were 398 at 6200 and 385 ft pounds at 4700. It was explained to me that the Dyno Jet is nothing more then a free wheeling system and is not good at giving you REAL numbers but it does give higher numbers . The Mustang takes in to account air temp, rolling chassi weight,power loss from the power train and other items. If this is true. I am sticking with the Mustang Dyno. They claim the Dyno Jet is better for show and tell.
The numbers by Mustang and DynoJet are company specific. There was a decent article in HotRod recently on the history of DynoJet.
Comparing one dyno to the other is fruitless. Dynos are for tuning devices. Get a baseline, add your parts, then tune for the best numbers. Whether you tune on a DynoJet or Mustang doesn't matter, as long as when you tune, you stick with the same dyno. I'm no expert, but I think we all know dynos are for bragging rights, no matter the chosen dyno.
Additionally, not all manufacturers use the same dyno, in fact most use a braked dyno directly from the flywheel, producing the "BHP" or "Brake Horsepower" number they advertise with.
I have emailed several tuners in the past month looking for Real information. Some use a Dyno Jet and some use The Mustang. All of them told me I will get a higher HP reading from the Dyno Jet because it is a free wheeling non friction Dyno, where as the Mustang adjust for body weight, HP loose thu the power train and a few other items. And the mustang can simulate a 1/4 mile run that is extremely accurate . I guess I will just bring it to the track next year. as of right now my tuner told me I am behind the wheel of a solid 11 sec car, The HP Numbers are not that high but they were surprised about the torque numbers, Started making good numbers at 2500 RPMs, with the new 3600 stall torque converter torque was right at 350 FT Pounds at 2500 RPMs and just kept climbing from there. it does have a big cam . Over 600 lift., for a A/4 car this sucker just breaks the tires loose big time in all 4 gears. this is the web site of the shop I started using about one month ago www.mongillomotors.com
I have emailed several tuners in the past month looking for Real information. Some use a Dyno Jet and some use The Mustang. All of them told me I will get a higher HP reading from the Dyno Jet because it is a free wheeling non friction Dyno, where as the Mustang adjust for body weight, HP loose thu the power train and a few other items. And the mustang can simulate a 1/4 mile run that is extremely accurate . I guess I will just bring it to the track next year. as of right now my tuner told me I am behind the wheel of a solid 11 sec car, The HP Numbers are not that high but they were surprised about the torque numbers, Started making good numbers at 2500 RPMs, with the new 3600 stall torque converter torque was right at 350 FT Pounds at 2500 RPMs and just kept climbing from there. it does have a big cam . Over 600 lift., for a A/4 car this sucker just breaks the tires loose big time in all 4 gears. this is the web site of the shop I started using about one month ago www.mongillomotors.com
Sorry but the horsepower doesn't make it an 11 second car. The driver does. If that's the case my car which was 501.45/480.65 at the wheels must have been an 11 second car or maybe even a high 10 second car. If it was, it wasn't with me behind the wheel. Once I get it back together with the smaller blower pulley, blower cam and a new tune, I guess I'll have a low 10 or high 9 second car if I hit my projected 550/550 to the wheels huh?
Have a lot of track time under my belt, but none in the past several years. My shop has a 1/4 mile simulator on their dyno. When it goes back in about a week or so I will give it a run, and just wait till next year to get in on a actual track
driver mod is the key to making what you have perform to its ability. just remember to keep the dyno styles the same when comparing numbers and even if possible do it on the same dyno because the small variations in calibration of the same style dyno would lead to different numbers yet close enough to remain in calibration.
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06 impulse blue/black/ m12 1 of 252
spoilerless with dba 4000 fronts.
78 chevy nova 2dr sbc 400/th350/8.5 (4 jackstand mod)
92 ford rustang lx notchback 5.0/t-5/8.8 LS still stock
FMS shorties, bbk x ,fms catback, air pump overrode.
Have a lot of track time under my belt, but none in the past several years. My shop has a 1/4 mile simulator on their dyno. When it goes back in about a week or so I will give it a run, and just wait till next year to get in on a actual track
Regardless of what is done on the dyno it can not account for track pep, wind speed, air temperature, traction, inconsitent 60' time, etc. So why waste your time on a pointless dyno 1/4 mile run.
Quote:
Originally Posted by koman
driver mod is the key to making what you have perform to its ability.
Regardless of what is done on the dyno it can not account for track pep, wind speed, air temperature, traction, inconsitent 60' time, etc. So why waste your time on a pointless dyno 1/4 mile run.
EXACTLY!
Yeah, you are right. I have a Dash Hawk on my car and they give very accurate 0-60 and 1/4 times. I will just give a go myself on the street till I can get it on the track next year. I just need a little help from MOTHER NATURE. It has been raining off and on for the past few days and the next 2 don't look good either. There is a perfect marked off 1/4 mile section of road not too far from me that a lot of street racers use. I will take it there one night when there are no crowds and just turn it loose to see what I get.
The New Mustang Dyno my shop installed not to long ago can do a lot of items,
Quanify vehicle drive train parasitic losses
Run tests under operator control load based on weight and aero drag loss.
Log multiple data channels including AFR. temps pressures and graph all against power and RPMs. and it's vehicle simulation feature automatically adjusts the load to reflect real world forces your car experiences on the road. plus several other features that puts your car in a real world street situation as close as possible. I got this info off the papers that MD MUSTANG sent me called The Many Advantages of EDDY CURRENT DYNO'S by Mustang
Regardless of what is done on the dyno it can not account for track pep, wind speed, air temperature, traction, inconsitent 60' time, etc. So why waste your time on a pointless dyno 1/4 mile run.
EXACTLY!
But it helps to know what numbers you are dealing with
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Once I get it back together with the smaller blower pulley, blower cam and a new tune, I guess I'll have a low 10 or high 9 second car if I hit my projected 550/550 to the wheels huh? 
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