I installed the SLP rear bar on my 04 M6 yesterday. It took 21/2 hours. I used ramps and a hydraulic jack to lower the rear end as recommended about 5". The hardest part is getting the bolts back into the brackets as everyone has mentioned who does the install. I did not slot the brackets, though, gutted it out and did it with the brackets unmodified. I used the softer (less stiff) setting to start. It does make a difference. The effect it has is very similar to what I have felt on other cars where I added or changed a bar size. What you feel is less squat in the tailend and less body roll. This loads up the front end and makes the steering even more precise. Interestingly, what you feel is that once in a turn, the steering feels almost harder/less boosted which is a good thing for me as you feel you have more control. A good addition to the car. I did this work with the help of my wife for the install of the bracket on the drivers side. The bar is very hard to move over sufficiently to allow the poly bushing to be seated in the bracket and align the hole. Pretty fine wife who is more than willing to crawl under a car in the garage and help out. She is tiny 5' and maybe 115 pounds but very strong (works out and keeps in great shape). Think maybe she's a keeper after 38 years of marriage. Yep, 58 years old and not afraid to get help wrench a car.
Did the SLP rear sway bar lower the rear of the car?
I have 11K on mine and have noticed that the steering feels a bit to sensitive\reactive at high speed (85-105) and in fact just posted a question on the " Typical lifespan of OEM shocks" thread. I plan on upgrading the bushings and putting Koni's on it hoping gain a bit of high speed stability. hmmm perhaps I better just by the SLP sway bar... thanks for the post.
I am about to order a SLP rear sway bar tommorrow. Eventually I intend to add Koni rear shocks as well. Hopefully, this will give me the handling feel I am looking for.
What did you mean about "slotting the brackets" and "gutting it out". I have never messed with the suspension before and am trying to understand the particulars about changing out the swaybar.
__________________
2004 Pulse Red GTO M6 - New Era CAI, TB Bypass, CAGS, Custom Split Exhaust, SLP Sway Bar & Bushings, BMR Strut Brace, HID, Sans Spoiler, Sirius
Do you think the swaybar will stop the rear-end squat under acceleration? How does the SLP bar compare to a Hotchkiss or some other? What bushings should I get with the SLP bar?
Do you think the swaybar will stop the rear-end squat under acceleration? How does the SLP bar compare to a Hotchkiss or some other? What bushings should I get with the SLP bar?
I don't think it will stop squat, unless there is something to the swaybar I don't understand. It mainly stops body roll and keeps the rear end level under lateral force. It will also supposedly help with wheel hop somewhat. You will need new springs (and possibly rear shocks?) for squatting.
I just ordered the SLP swaybar endlink bushings as well for $35.
__________________
2004 Pulse Red GTO M6 - New Era CAI, TB Bypass, CAGS, Custom Split Exhaust, SLP Sway Bar & Bushings, BMR Strut Brace, HID, Sans Spoiler, Sirius
Diverdan is correct, it will not help squating, however, rear springs and adjustable shocks (I stock both), its very comprable to the Hotchkis bar. You should definately get the sway bar end links, we sell them for 34.95. I have two of the bars left and 1 set of bushings here.
AutoForums.com is the premier network of enthusiast-owned
enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
We operate more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share
experiences and opinions as a community.
Linear Mode
