In the future I am looking to do a set of heads and a cam. I have a 2004 GTO with a 421 bobcat kit, and intake and a custom tune. Car put down 360 rwhp. Is it possible with a set of heads and a cam to put down 450 to the to the wheels on my LS1? Also what is the best set of heads and cam on the market today?
Gonna be tough. And your streetability will be gone, but it can be done.
TFS and AFR heads will be what you'll be looking for. Any cam manufacturer will be able to pick you out a cam based on your HP goals and head flow sheets. You'll also be upgrading to a FAST 90mm intake (plus porting) and a 90mm TB. Plus you'll need headers if you don't already have them.
How will I lose streetability with by adding a set of heads and a cam to LS1 GTO? In the magazine HOT ROD they take an 04 GTO and do ls6 heads ported, cam and a magnacharger with alcohol injection. The car produces 600rwhp, runs 11.20s and its his daily driver
Daily driver means different things to different people. I had a buddy who daily drove his 406 sb Chevelle with 4.56 gears and a 4000 stall converter. He had to rev the bag out of it to get it to go, but he drove it everywhere...
Adding ported heads and a cam move the power and torque numbers up in the RPM range. While they take in more air, they also need more RPM to get the velocity back. Without velocity, the air won't fill the cylinder/combustion chamber as efficiently (expressed as Volumetric Efficiency, or VE) and your HP and combustion (read: detonation) will suffer.
A blower, obviously, forces air (i.e. forced induction) into the cylinder/combustion chamber, which will make up some velocity in the lower rpm range, given the type and size of the blower are correct.
You're asking a naturally aspirated motor to make 1.5 hp per ci (347 ci = 525+ hp). That's quite a bit. As an example, my old 462 ci Pontiac in my drag car made 1.5hp/ci = 700hp... That was a 14:1 compression, solid roller cam motor with EFI. It idled at 900 rpm (only because of the EFI, with the carb it was more like 1100 rpm), but peak power started around 3500 rpm and ended around 6800...
While I drove it on the street (4.10 gears and a 4400 stall), I wouldn't call it real streetable.
Remember, for your money, the absolute best power adder you will ever be able to purchase is a turbo. Its not the cheapest initially, its the easiest on your internal engine and more power is VERY easy to add.
Remember, for your money, the absolute best power adder you will ever be able to purchase is a turbo. Its not the cheapest initially, its the easiest on your internal engine and more power is VERY easy to add.
Humbler - What's you feeling on Nitros, 50 to 100 shot in a LS2?
As long as you keep the tune up conservative, should be fine. I would add a O2 monitor of some sort, at the very least. Just to make sure you don't lean it out.
If I were doing it, I would probably add a dry kit and slightly bigger injectors instead of a wet kit and having to bleed off the factory fuel system or make a dedicated low pressure system. I would also have some sort tuner software so I could play with the AF ratio through the injectors.
As long as you keep the tune up conservative, should be fine. I would add a O2 monitor of some sort, at the very least. Just to make sure you don't lean it out.
If I were doing it, I would probably add a dry kit and slightly bigger injectors instead of a wet kit and having to bleed off the factory fuel system or make a dedicated low pressure system. I would also have some sort tuner software so I could play with the AF ratio through the injectors.
AutoForums.com is the premier network of enthusiast-owned
enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
We operate more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share
experiences and opinions as a community.
Linear Mode
