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Old 03-29-2006, 09:44 AM   #1 (permalink)
 
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LS2 Knock Sensors Workaround?

I would like to know if anyone has heard about a workaround for putting an aluminum LS2 in an LS1 car with the early version knock sensors. I understand there is a workaround for the electronics rather than using the 6.0 iron block. My goal is to put an aluminum 402 LS2 in a 2004 LS1 car.
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Old 04-29-2006, 08:08 PM   #2 (permalink)
 
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LS2 is also an aluminum block.
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Old 04-29-2006, 08:12 PM   #3 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SloTymer
LS2 is also an aluminum block.
SloTymer:

My concern is that the LS1 sensor tuning is acoustically set for their location in the lifter valley, whereas the LS2 knock sensors are in the side of the block. Therefore, different sounds in different locations. The knock sensors are adjustable in the ECM, but I've yet to meet someone who is good at adjusting the knock sensors.
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Old 04-29-2006, 09:47 PM   #4 (permalink)
 
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Well, there's always the C5R block!! It has the sensors in the valley like the LS1 does
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Old 04-29-2006, 10:28 PM   #5 (permalink)
 
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Wow, I never thought this would be an issue. I believed all newer sensors generated the knock signal and the ECM just decided how far to retard timing. My brother recently did a swap like this and he used this http://www.lingenfelter.com/store/rx-ls2-ksrh.html.

So far so good.
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Old 04-30-2006, 11:02 PM   #6 (permalink)
 
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ftlfirefighter & Mike V:

Thanks for the responses. I didn't know that about the C5R block, but I'll end up going with whatever the motor builder uses and I suspect it will be just an off-the-shelf LS2 block. The link for the Lingenfelter wiring is cool. The best part is that the prices are very affordable. Other vendors include more in their conversion kits, but charge a whole lot more too!

The bottom line is that I have to make sure I have all of the parts to make the conversion go right the first time. The car is my daily driver, and I'll be taking a week off of work to make the swap in my garage.

Thanks Again!

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Old 05-08-2006, 08:31 PM   #7 (permalink)
 
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OH BOY!!!!!!
"Wow, I never thought this would be an issue. I believed all newer sensors generated the knock signal and the ECM just decided how far to retard timing"

Some advice is worth exactly what you paid for IT!!!!

And just how do you think the ECM decides when and HOW MUCH to retard SPARK !!! It's NOT THE ECM that decides, IT's the person that calibrates that ENGINE in THAT vehicle with THAT software. That's who decides. It takes many months and tests with very sophisticated equipment to to that correctly. Yet some think just any KNOCK sensor on any block will work..Fat CHANCE.

Even if the KNOCK sensor were exactly the same !!! Once you change location, and/or Cam as well as many other factors you are betting your engines durability !! Not only is the knock sensor "LOCATION" specific as far as function, but "SOFTWARE" ( as in the stuff that runs in the ECM ) specific.
Location on the same block will effect how the sensors output is "read" by the software. Different locations or different blocks will add even more changes to the output of the signal, as "read" by the ECM software. It is far more complex than seeing a signal form a sensor and retarding SPARK.
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Old 05-08-2006, 11:11 PM   #8 (permalink)
 
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Well, since you seem to be an expert, how about giving the guy some advice. I know the part I posted works. Seen the car, driven the car, love the car.

Now, I know, a lot of things can be interpreted as a knock, as you said, and sometimes you don’t want a quick knock – even a real one – to retard timing. That’s why many run an inline switch to disable the knock sensor. It’s needed for startup, since an initial check is done, but at the track many flip their inline switch to disable the signal. Also, you have constant knocks you know it. So, it's not like you'll be driving around not knowing your new engine is knocking the life out of itself.
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