Hey all, been looking at these forums for a while for GTO info, and it looks like I'll finally be getting an A4 this coming summer afrer four loong years of waiting..
So, I plan on spending 1200 at most on engine mods, just enough to make me noticable faster than other stock gto's and have just enough to beat the new camaros and challengers..
A couple questions, if you would..
-How much would a CAM cost? I think the best sound combo i've heard on youtube is the LT's+cam.. however I'm not sure of the benefits either?
-Since I do not plan on boasting 1/4 mile times, i'm looking for whatever tubes will get me that 0-60 fastest (whereas i'll be on the street and rarely on the or going much over 85). I heard JBA short tubes are best for this, and since even used kooks LTs are around 6-700 it's up in the air. Any truth to short tubes being better for low-end acceleration?
-I plan on getting a tune after all the mods (they can't shorten any of the gears for acceleration with this could they?)
Hey all, been looking at these forums for a while for GTO info, and it looks like I'll finally be getting an A4 this coming summer afrer four loong years of waiting..
So, I plan on spending 1200 at most on engine mods, just enough to make me noticable faster than other stock gto's and have just enough to beat the new camaros and challengers..
A couple questions, if you would..
-How much would a CAM cost? I think the best sound combo i've heard on youtube is the LT's+cam.. however I'm not sure of the benefits either?
-Since I do not plan on boasting 1/4 mile times, i'm looking for whatever tubes will get me that 0-60 fastest (whereas i'll be on the street and rarely on the or going much over 85). I heard JBA short tubes are best for this, and since even used kooks LTs are around 6-700 it's up in the air. Any truth to short tubes being better for low-end acceleration?
-I plan on getting a tune after all the mods (they can't shorten any of the gears for acceleration with this could they?)
Thanks for your time!
You are correct in the short tubes being better for low end torque, they create an amount of backpressure that the engine needs to breathe correctly at low rpms... I grew up on the 1320, so I always loved the sound, and midrange power that full length tube headers offer, not only that, space is and issue, and so are smog regulations... I would look into it... Cam work is expensive, but worth every last penny. It changes the dynamic of the car, but then with cam work, you also should do ignition upgrades, fuel system upgrades, and computer work... I'm sorry, but you're in the realm of not just tuning, but gross addiction... Welcome.
you aren't going to get much unfortunately for $1,200. the whole purpose of a cam is to make the engine flow more air. that's what everything pretty much is about on an engine. LTs give you more torque down low and everyplace else too. back pressure is a bad thing. it never does any good. LTs use savaging which basically uses the exhaust pulse from one cylinder to help pull out the exhaust of another one. LTs are very, very desirable to have with a cam as an after market cam holds the valves open longer and farther than the stock one. the LTs help keep the flow going. think of it as a straw you're blowing thru. it wouldn't do much good to have a bigger straw if the end of it was still the smaller size. the weakest link holds you back. you'd also need a tune after a cam upgrade or the car would run like crap. even doing it on the cheap: $400 headers, $750 for cam/springs/retainers/push rods, $400 for a tune for a total of $1,550 plus some trinkets (antifreeze, gasket stuff, etc) IF you do all the work yourself on the parts install.
__________________ 2004 Blk/Rd M6
12.34 ET, 113.55 MPH 1.82 60ft
you aren't going to get much unfortunately for $1,200. the whole purpose of a cam is to make the engine flow more air. that's what everything pretty much is about on an engine. LTs give you more torque down low and everyplace else too. back pressure is a bad thing. it never does any good. LTs use savaging which basically uses the exhaust pulse from one cylinder to help pull out the exhaust of another one. LTs are very, very desirable to have with a cam as an after market cam holds the valves open longer and farther than the stock one. the LTs help keep the flow going. think of it as a straw you're blowing thru. it wouldn't do much good to have a bigger straw if the end of it was still the smaller size. the weakest link holds you back. you'd also need a tune after a cam upgrade or the car would run like crap. even doing it on the cheap: $400 headers, $750 for cam/springs/retainers/push rods, $400 for a tune for a total of $1,550 plus some trinkets (antifreeze, gasket stuff, etc) IF you do all the work yourself on the parts install.
thanks, any clue to how much rwhp would increase with this setup?? as long as i have something to get me over other stock gto's and these new evo's i'll be fine. thanks again!
With a cam and LTs and tune some people have seen 400+ rwhp. Shorties are good for low end, its true, but they restrict the top end. You want the most power, period, go with long tubes. Unless you plan on shifting before 5500 rpms. You do not lose low end with LTs, or if you do it is not noticeable.
Don't get a cam for the sound, thats a mustang mentality. Cams open up the engine and let it breath, and they do sound cool, but you shouldn't buy one based on the sound it makes. It sounds like you don't want a big cam. The bigger the cam, the more low end you lose.
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