All right guys.... went to the track, California Speedway, on stock setup, with me feeling like an idiot for frying my brakes. So home I go with a project, new brakes and line swap. I got screwed on my lines, big "Thanks for Nothing to L.A.Performance Division, and Orne Brothers for falling short on so many levels, but I still pulled the stockers out, so you can gain from my experience. For starters, here's a pic of a new pad, vs. the stock pad after 1 day of track use.lol.
Below, w/pics is a step by step breakdown of replacing the front pads and Lines.
1. Your car's spare tire system
2. 19mm, 15mm, 12mm sockets
3. Ratchet, long handle. These bolts can be tight and you need leverage
4. Piple pliers, plunbing pliers, Vise-grip (min 6 inches)
5. 10mm wrench (Short/small if possible)
6. Bucket, news paper, cleaning supplies
7. Lithium Grease
After having loosened the bolts, Jack up vehicle, and properly secure it with either both front, both rear, or all tires up in the air with a "Safe" and "Quality" jack stand. Don't trust your car, or your life on something you got for $10 bucks. Also, if only working on the front or rear of the car, make sure that it's secured, and won't roll. Block the front or rear, (Tires still on the ground) with the OEM or other wheel blocks.
Now with the car up, completely remove lug nuts, and pull off wheel. The wheel/rim may be rusted to the hub, meaning a few grunts, curses and pounding with a rubber mallet may be required. Here's a pic of the rusty hub. Note.... the calipers had already been removed when I took this pic.
Clean the rust using sand paper, a wire brush or other chemical solvent that you may have. it should look at least this clean after you're done.
Also... don't forget to scrub the inside of the rim, as it may also be rusted.
Now... important. Lithium grease is your friend. It's cheap and readily available from any auto-parts supplier and prevents rust. When done working on your car, before putting the wheels back on the vehicle, apply lithium grease to the hub. Don't do this now, as you'll only end up with grease all over your tools and clothes.
To remove the caliper and swap brakes, we must loosen (2) 15mm bolts. They are located at the top and bottom of the caliper, towards the front of the vehicle. Left side on Driver side, Right side on passenger if the front is too confusing . This bolt needs to be held in place both when you loosen and later tighten it. You'll need a 15mm socket, and a 15mm wrench or vise-grip, pipe pliers or other tool to secure the bolt.
Pic of the lower bolt
This is how you should secure the bolt
And repeat on top bolt
Now wiggle the caliper back forth, loosening it's grip on the pads. Some like to open the brake fluid drain, but that brings air into your system, and will require flushing the brake fluid. Don't be a wimp, and just push back and forth, use a pry or other tool to help spread the caliper if needed, and then slide off the caliper. The caliper will slide to the front of the vehicle, but don't let it hang, as it may tear, or damage your brake line.
No remove the brake pads by sliding them out .
Your wheel should look like this now.
Replace old pads with new, and reverse the above process.
For brake lines, only re-install the calipers, leave the car up on jacks and start with the removal of the lines. Front lines have a fender bracket that retains the line.
Loosen the 10mm nut, "NOT" the fender bolt, of the metal line to the bracket and drain brake fluid.
Now remove the 10mm bolt holding the line to the caliper.
Now remove the fender bracket bolt. It's a 10mm as well, and the line will be completely free.
Replace and reverse steps with aftermarket line.
Note: When purchasing any aftermarket brake lines, make sure that they are supplied with the fender bracket. DO NOT PURCHASE any kits that DO NOT have this bracket, as the line may rub against the tire.
OK, to swap the rotors, from step 5, before re-assembly.... meaning you're looking at this,
This bracket is held in place by (2) 21mm bolts. They are on the inside of the rotor, or behind the rotor looking at it from this point. Remove the (2) bolts, and the bracket comes off, allowing you to pull the rotor off as well.
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. This bolt needs to be held in place both when you loosen and later tighten it. You'll need a 15mm socket, and a 15mm wrench or vise-grip, pipe pliers or other tool to secure the bolt. 
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