I should re-phrase that.... most portable audio outputs are a 3.5mm headphone style jack. 2.5mm is the universal standard in some applications, and should therefore not be labeled as the opposite.... my bad.
Are there any other inputs in that radio plug beside the phone?
There are no pin accommodations for an aux. That may not mean that the board itself wouldn't be capable of supporting one. Board-sharing, like platform sharing is pretty common in radio's from a given mfg., and the top most bar usually has 3 pin sections. The first, going left to right looking at the back of the deck, is a CD Changer section, usually accomodating a power source, and data pin. That one can't be used for an aux, or rather is beyond my abilities (Minor in Engineering, Major in Philosophy, Doctorate in pissing off the competition). I'm sure you could make some interface that communicates properly with the unit, converting an audio feed into the proper data signal, but it seems excessively difficult considering the other options available. It is theoretically possible to have control over the mobile device from the radio if the interface could communicate both ways. It is after all a 2-way data system, as the Changer would take commands from the deck, the deck then receiving audio data.
The middle plug/cluster of the top row, is the phone pin cluster, it has a AF+, AF- and Remote ground. I'm not sure whether the remote ground wire could trigger voice in mode, or is a ground for the unit attached to it when in voice-in mode.... similar to an armed ground on a alarm. I didn't check when I did my install. I was too excited to get it going and yank the Drive and Play. I do know that it's not a resting/constant ground, meaning it reads a low voltage when the radio is on/plugged in.
The Right plug/cluster of the top row is a direct aux in. It's a 3 pin in, L+, R+ and a shared -. Now there are no pins for the left, or right section on the back of the radio, but that may not mean that the AUX board/soldering points aren't there.
I don't know if I'd want to take it apart though. It would defeat the purpose of this install being a DIY. As is, I can still pull the radio and bring it to the dealer without any issues if it were to fail, or need service. I wouldn't have that option if I pulled/modified the board. These other options would be worth exploring on vehicles that have the pins readily available. My neighbor owns a porsche clinic/shop. Maybe I can get him to let me look at some of the decks. I know he's really interested in this aux-in mod, as many of his customers ask about something like this. I'll also look for some BP radio's at my old shop. I might be able to borrow one for a few days and see/check out the other pins. For now... we'll just say " to be continued...."
There are no pin accommodations for an aux. That may not mean that the board itself wouldn't be capable of supporting one. Board-sharing, like platform sharing is pretty common in radio's from a given mfg., and the top most bar usually has 3 pin sections. The first, going left to right looking at the back of the deck, is a CD Changer section, usually accomodating a power source, and data pin. That one can't be used for an aux, or rather is beyond my abilities (Minor in Engineering, Major in Philosophy, Doctorate in pissing off the competition). I'm sure you could make some interface that communicates properly with the unit, converting an audio feed into the proper data signal, but it seems excessively difficult considering the other options available. It is theoretically possible to have control over the mobile device from the radio if the interface could communicate both ways. It is after all a 2-way data system, as the Changer would take commands from the deck, the deck then receiving audio data.
The middle plug/cluster of the top row, is the phone pin cluster, it has a AF+, AF- and Remote ground. I'm not sure whether the remote ground wire could trigger voice in mode, or is a ground for the unit attached to it when in voice-in mode.... similar to an armed ground on a alarm. I didn't check when I did my install. I was too excited to get it going and yank the Drive and Play. I do know that it's not a resting/constant ground, meaning it reads a low voltage when the radio is on/plugged in.
The Right plug/cluster of the top row is a direct aux in. It's a 3 pin in, L+, R+ and a shared -. Now there are no pins for the left, or right section on the back of the radio, but that may not mean that the AUX board/soldering points aren't there.
I don't know if I'd want to take it apart though. It would defeat the purpose of this install being a DIY. As is, I can still pull the radio and bring it to the dealer without any issues if it were to fail, or need service. I wouldn't have that option if I pulled/modified the board. These other options would be worth exploring on vehicles that have the pins readily available. My neighbor owns a porsche clinic/shop. Maybe I can get him to let me look at some of the decks. I know he's really interested in this aux-in mod, as many of his customers ask about something like this. I'll also look for some BP radio's at my old shop. I might be able to borrow one for a few days and see/check out the other pins. For now... we'll just say " to be continued...."
Just FYI, there is another way to add an Aux-in that requires some minor soldering to the main board. This is done with 4 small wires with capacitors (2.2uf polarized) connecting to 2 seperate areas on the board that coincide with the onboard chip. While your install does seem much more simple, I'm curious as to how it sounds. My only concern is that the source wouldn't come through in true stereo. I say this because the phone input is only mono but you seemed to have tapped into the actual H/U itself.
I've attached some rough diagrams detailing how the internal mod is done. Note that it requires an 1/8" switched jack that you can buy at Radio Shack. 5 wires will come from the jack (2 positive, 2 negative, and 1 ground) and 4 of them will terminate with a 2.2uf capacitor (2 will be positive, 2 negative). The other end of the capacitor will be soldered into the points specified and the ground will be attached to the H/U chassis. Once this is done, there are no CD's required in order to play your MP3, IPod, SatRadio, etc. When nothing is plugged into the jack, you have an open circuit just as normal. Once you plug into the jack, it closes the circuit and switches to your Aux. unit. The sound quality is very good and, because it is going directly into the board, has almost no signal loss.
exwrx: I've also attached the datasheet for the processor. You are correct that sharing can and is done on the board. Also the second diagram shows the use of a 5-pin (or 4-pin + seperate ground since I can't seem to find a 5-pin) connector which will allow for quick disconnect if you want or have to take out the H/U. As an added note, the 3rd diagram shows in picture form just where the wires go. It also shows that the caps that were removed from those points are being used again. Most have found that new caps are better than the ones that were removed though so keep that in mind.
If you or anyone else is interested or has any questions, feel free to let me know. I didn't come up with this mod and all credit goes to those who were brave enough (and smart enough) to fiddle around with the insides until they got it to work.
__________________
CGM/Black/M6/17", Volant CAI, Flowmaster Super 44's, StolenFox H-pipe, 20% Diamond Tint, Kicker 08CVT654's, JBL GTO607C, JBL GTO637, Audiobahn A8002T, Audiobahn A4004T, Audio Control LC6i, Sirius Stratus, DEI FM Relay, Aux-In Mod.
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Last edited by Ronin GTO : 05-29-2008 at 05:21 AM.
I think this should be stickied, as it's the most comprehensive thread on this issue on any forum I've seen so far.
In regards to sound in mono... it's actually pretty amazing, better than the radio, and on par... of not better than the CD because of the gain difference. The original intention for that input was probably a super-low input signal (a fraction of a volt) , not an iPod or other portable device pushing as much as 3 volts.
Consider that we're using a OEM radio, and a MP3 storage media. Any audiophile... me included... would shudder at the though of hearing in mono...Or an MP3 recording.... On that note, a LP recording doesn't have a stereo track... does it? Someone PM me on that, as it's been a while since LP's for me. lol.
Lastly, the diagram, of the relay provided (5 wire jack) is/should also be capable of switching the ground on the Aux I showed, negating the need for a switch. Someone take a pic of the 5 wire jack/relay and provide a part# for us. lol.
Just FYI, there is another way to add an Aux-in that requires some minor soldering to the main board. This is done with 4 small wires with capacitors (2.2uf polarized) connecting to 2 seperate areas on the board that coincide with the onboard chip. While your install does seem much more simple, I'm curious as to how it sounds. My only concern is that the source wouldn't come through in true stereo. I say this because the phone input is only mono but you seemed to have tapped into the actual H/U itself.
I've attached some rough diagrams detailing how the internal mod is done. Note that it requires an 1/8" switched jack that you can buy at Radio Shack. 5 wires will come from the jack (2 positive, 2 negative, and 1 ground) and 4 of them will terminate with a 2.2uf capacitor (2 will be positive, 2 negative). The other end of the capacitor will be soldered into the points specified and the ground will be attached to the H/U chassis. Once this is done, there are no CD's required in order to play your MP3, IPod, SatRadio, etc. When nothing is plugged into the jack, you have an open circuit just as normal. Once you plug into the jack, it closes the circuit and switches to your Aux. unit. The sound quality is very good and, because it is going directly into the board, has almost no signal loss.
exwrx: I've also attached the datasheet for the processor. You are correct that sharing can and is done on the board. Also the second diagram shows the use of a 5-pin (or 4-pin + seperate ground since I can't seem to find a 5-pin) connector which will allow for quick disconnect if you want or have to take out the H/U. As an added note, the 3rd diagram shows in picture form just where the wires go. It also shows that the caps that were removed from those points are being used again. Most have found that new caps are better than the ones that were removed though so keep that in mind.
If you or anyone else is interested or has any questions, feel free to let me know. I didn't come up with this mod and all credit goes to those who were brave enough (and smart enough) to fiddle around with the insides until they got it to work.
Nice post! This sounds like the correct way of doing it. I personally would not do the other way just cause of the MONO status. The 5 pin connector, you mount that onto the radio? Or mount it in the dash or center consol somewhere accessible?
Nice post! This sounds like the correct way of doing it. I personally would not do the other way just cause of the MONO status. The 5 pin connector, you mount that onto the radio? Or mount it in the dash or center consol somewhere accessible?
From the diagram... the connector wouldn't, or needn't be accesible. It's a connecting point/relay that triggers the aux once voltage is sent through the "+" side. To be exact, the caps ensure the proper voltage being fed through the radio, preventing any damage to the circuit components. The radio would see/sense voltage on the aux-in, and autmatically switch over.
The question now is whether some display message would appear. It wouldn't provide the "voice-in" message, as that's designated to the phone. Anyone do this yet?
These two are different means of accomplishing the same goal. What I really like about this so far is that both are extremely inexpensive. Neither one would require more than $20 in parts. The difference is in skill required to perform the install. Another plus is that "if" I ever ordered the BT kit for my car, or had one already, I now have an alternative for an aux.
I'm excited to find some other people here actually providing feedback, info, suuggestions that are furthering the cause.... evolving this project and giving people more than one option.
Okay, just to give everyone a little insight on this topic, it was something that was brought up in another forum. A few of the technical folks started reading the chip schematics and messing around with the main board. After some trial and error from quite a few people, they pretty much collaborated and came up with the final product. There are a lot of Goat owners who are using this mod and even doing it for others. I for one did the mod myself and found that, even though I hadn't soldered in quite some time, it was pretty simple.
As for the jack, you want a 1/8” Normally Closed Stereo Phono Jack (Radio Shack part number 274-246). You can mount the jack anywhere you want to. I drilled a small hole in my center console right next to my cup holders. Then I used a small counter-sink bit so that the jack would be flush when it was mounted. All the wire is run under the center console so you never see it. As for any sort of display, since the Aux. source is being fed directly into the chip, there will be no display showing Aux-in. Whatever you are playing at the time of connection (AM/FM/CD) will remain displayed. The jack will just "switch" the chip and bypass the circuit, feeding the signal from your Aux. source, thus allowing the signal to be heard. Right now I'm working on getting 2 Aux-inputs to work. One will be for my Sirius and the other will be in the center console for my MP3 player. This will require some sort of switch that will allow A (Sirius) to be the default while it is powered on. Once it is powered off, it would switch to B (MP3). If B is not connected, then the H/U would play. I'll let you know how it works once I get the bugs worked out.
Here is the actual write-up from one of the guys who figured this mod out. As I said, I take no credit for this and am just re-posting it for everyones info:
Tools needed:
Soldering Iron with a small tip Phillips screw driver Stubby phillips screw driver T-9 torx driver T-10 torx driver Small pick or pocket screw driver Helping Hands (holding device) optional but very helpful I think thats about it. I found a small torx bit driver at Home Depot with interchanging bits, starts at 15 and goes down to 4.
1. Remove center console top (cup holder). Remove the screw in the front under the ashtray. Pull up starting at the rear and work forward. Use care and pull close to the clips.
2. Remove the top center dash cover (black piece over the A/C vents)
3. Remove 4 scews from the top trim piece above the A/C vents. Stubby screw driver needed for the 2 top ones. I found that if you pull the trim piece and release the radio retainer springs at the same time the radio pops out easily.
Note: The radio holds the trim in place.
Radio disassembly:
1. Remove the four T-9 face plate scews. Use care, the wire pig tail is short, disconnect it.
2. Remove the 4 T-10 screws holding the C/D changer portion of the radio. With the front of the radio facing away, lift off the changer and tilt it to the left and set it on it's side. Push the locking tab on the wire tape connector to the left and carefully remove the wire tape.
3. Turn the receiver over and remove the 2 T-10 screws from the bottom cover and remove it. The circuit board will now be exposed, use caution not to scratch it. Also use care not to shock the board with static electricity.
4. From the top side locate the capacitors C1528 and C1529. Note the position of the stripe, this indicates polarity. Positive towards prossesor.
5. Set the radio on it's side and heat the capacitor wires enough to soften the solder and straighten the wires, use caution not to over heat anything. You may have to repeat several times to get them straight. Now heat them and pull 'em out. I used a piece of wire to suck up the excess solder.
6. Solder caps to the wire using flux to insure a good clean connection, the replacements I got had wires at each end and marked with an arrow indicating polarity. Use different color wire or mark them someway so you can determine which goes where ie. left and right and polarity. Trim the wire on the caps. down to about an inch. Solder 2wires to the positive end of 2 caps and 2 to the neg. end of 2 caps. You should now have 4 wires soldered to 4 caps. * Wires should be aprox. 18" long, if you are going to use the 5 pin connector. If you are not using the connector make them as long as needed and feed enough through the radio holes, slots in the back of the radio, to allow you to work away from the radio internals.
7. Solder in the new caps. I don't recommend using flux on the board because the solder could run and cause a short. Work on one area at a time ie. C1528 or C1529. *If you are not using the 5 pin connector slide enough shrink wrap over the wires to completely cover the caps. and the solder connections now. Place one cap. in the hole closest to the prossesor with the arrow pointing down, pos. to board. The caps. should be about 1/2 inch off the board. Carefully solder it in place, remember to move the shrink wrap away from the heat. Place another in the other hole furthest from the prossesor with the arrow pointing up, neg. to board. Repeat for the other caps. If you have the front of the radio facing away from you the pos. will be on the left. After all 4 caps are in place, slide the shink wrap over the caps. and all the way down to the board and carefully heat it starting from the board and working up. This should ensure no wires short out after intall.
*If you are not using 5 pin connector skip step 8.
*8. Install connector. You should have all 4 caps. installed with shrink wrap insulating the caps/wires/connections. Feed the wires through the holes (slots) in the back of the radio. Cut wires equal length, aprox. 10-12 inches out of the back of the radio. install the terminals and slide them into the connector, I crimped and soldered them. Remember to note which wire is where.
9. Installing the 1/8" jack. Pin 5 goes to the positive side of the board, side closest to the prossesor C1529 via's. Pin 4 to neg C1529. Pin 2 to pos. C1528 via's. Pin 3 to neg. C1528. Pin 1 to ground. See post 191, but ignore the polarity of the caps.
10. Install the stereo jack and run the wire harness up and behind the A/C controls. Slide the radio into the center dash trim, feed the Aux in harness up through the hole in the top of the radio carrier and behind the A/C controls. Connect the Aux in harness and the hazard switch plug. Pull up lightly on the Aux in harness as you push the radio in so it doesn't get bunched up behind the radio. Fully seat the radio and check the fuction of the Aux in. If it doesn't work YOUR SCREWED. No seriously everything should be fine, if not recheck to make sure the I-pod plug is fully seated and the radio is set to tuner (AM FM).
11. Renstall trim pieces making sure everthing is connected properly.
NOTE: Your turn signals will not work unless the haz. switch is connected. NOTE: The TC and door lock connectors are the same, I plugged mine in wrong and the doors locked when I pushed the TC switch. NOTE: Remove the rubber tray liner in the front, under the ashtray, it makes it easier to reinstall the center console cover NOTE: Don't forget to turn off the I-pod, it will not shut off automatically
*If for some reason you don't feel comfortable doing this mod yourself, I can put you in touch with a guy who has done this many times for other Goat owners. He has 2 different ways of doing it. One is to install the connector in one of the holes that you use to remove the H/U. It's flush mounted and looks pretty good if you want to connect your MP3 player that way. The other way is with about a 3ft cable that you can install in your center console as I mentioned above. I believe he charges about $45 for the cable and $50 for the jack in the removal hole, and all that is required is that you ship your H/U to him and pay for return postage. He usually does it and ships it back to you the same day. Everyone who has had him do this mod for them has been pleased and I have yet to hear any negative comments. Just another alternative.*
__________________
CGM/Black/M6/17", Volant CAI, Flowmaster Super 44's, StolenFox H-pipe, 20% Diamond Tint, Kicker 08CVT654's, JBL GTO607C, JBL GTO637, Audiobahn A8002T, Audiobahn A4004T, Audio Control LC6i, Sirius Stratus, DEI FM Relay, Aux-In Mod.
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Last edited by Ronin GTO : 05-30-2008 at 06:41 AM.
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