If you guys have any questions on what products to use etc, feel free to ask me. Afterall, this is what I do for a living
Hey, I'll bite. I've done lots of detailing myself, but mainly just for my own cars.
When I was talking to the Meguiar's guy at Barrett-Jackson, I pointed to a messy-looking, half-empty bottle of Medallion Premium Paint Cleaner they'd been using in a demo and told him how much I liked that product. I was surprised when he told me that Meguiar's has quit making it (something about VOC laws, the guy said). I had always used the Medallion product as a step up from Scratch-X, as it seemed a bit more aggressive while still being very safe.
So I asked the Meguiar's guy what I could switch to as a substitute. He urged me to try one of their tan-bottle items, the #82 polish. I noticed that the products in this range (80, 81, 82, etc.) all had red arrows on the left side of the front label indicating their aggressiveness.
I follow the Meguiar's credo of using the least-aggressive product for the job. I've burned through clearcoat before, and I never want to do it again. What do you think of using these tan-bottle items with the D/A polisher?
Hey, I'll bite. I've done lots of detailing myself, but mainly just for my own cars.
When I was talking to the Meguiar's guy at Barrett-Jackson, I pointed to a messy-looking, half-empty bottle of Medallion Premium Paint Cleaner they'd been using in a demo and told him how much I liked that product. I was surprised when he told me that Meguiar's has quit making it (something about VOC laws, the guy said). I had always used the Medallion product as a step up from Scratch-X, as it seemed a bit more aggressive while still being very safe.
So I asked the Meguiar's guy what I could switch to as a substitute. He urged me to try one of their tan-bottle items, the #82 polish. I noticed that the products in this range (80, 81, 82, etc.) all had red arrows on the left side of the front label indicating their aggressiveness.
I follow the Meguiar's credo of using the least-aggressive product for the job. I've burned through clearcoat before, and I never want to do it again. What do you think of using these tan-bottle items with the D/A polisher?
I highly suggest #80 Speed Glaze, I use to use it A LOT, I ran out and was offered some free Poor Boys polish's to try and i've been using those lately. That said, I'll probably go back to #80 when I'm out of the PB stuff. If that isn't aggressive enough I highly recommend #83. IMO, you wouldn't be able to get enough out of #82 w/ a D/A, I think that'd be best used w/ a rotary.
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Reflections Detailing Inc.
(anyone in Orange County need a good detail job let me know)
#80, huh? I thought a glaze was just basically a polish--no cutting action whatsoever. Mind you, I'm not looking to remove any heavy defects. I just occasionally like to get rid of the routine swirls that accumulate. What's more, whoever detailed my GTO when it was new was a klutz. I've found places where there were obvious little buff marks (looks like the little letter "e" written in script over and over), but I've minimized that.
#80, huh? I thought a glaze was just basically a polish--no cutting action whatsoever. Mind you, I'm not looking to remove any heavy defects. I just occasionally like to get rid of the routine swirls that accumulate. What's more, whoever detailed my GTO when it was new was a klutz. I've found places where there were obvious little buff marks (looks like the little letter "e" written in script over and over), but I've minimized that.
The #80 definately has some cutting action to it, it is pretty mild as far as abbrasives go though, but it works excellent and will definately remove routine swirls that accumulate. It's a few steps above Scratch X IMO. If it's not strong enough, try #83
You know how all these companies do it, some have glazes w/ no cutting action, some do, some call their "waxes" "polishes", etc, etc.
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Reflections Detailing Inc.
(anyone in Orange County need a good detail job let me know)
Does the buffer have a variable speed control? If so then, great. For those of you looking to purchase a polishing machine, (as we call it), look for one with this feature. Makita, Flex and Milwaukee are a few reputable names to look for in regard to durabilty and a variable speed control.
One key to being successful with a polishing machine is to keep the pad cool and stay away from the edges. When it heats up, so does the surface your polishing. When that happens you burn the clearcoat and then you're screwed. The speed of the machine and a lack of material on the pad are the key to keeping the surface cool. I've seen it all too often, when an individual does this and burns his cars finish. Dont be too aggressive with the pressure put on the surface . Go nice and easy and use a low speed till you get the feel of the machine. It'll pay off in the long run.
Does the buffer have a variable speed control? If so then, great.
Yes, it does--although I'm getting mixed signals about which speed to use for which application. There's a little wheel on the back of the buffer that goes from 1 to 6, with 6 being the fastest. In the CD that came with my buffer, Barry Maguire recommends using 4.5 for nearly everything. When I bought the machine at Barrett-Jackson, though, the 50-something guy who sold it to me said that he uses setting 6 for polishing, setting 5 for waxing. I lurked a bit in the Maguire's online detailing forum and saw that people like much slower settings--3 or 4.
Yes, it does--although I'm getting mixed signals about which speed to use for which application. There's a little wheel on the back of the buffer that goes from 1 to 6, with 6 being the fastest. In the CD that came with my buffer, Barry Maguire recommends using 4.5 for nearly everything. When I bought the machine at Barrett-Jackson, though, the 50-something guy who sold it to me said that he uses setting 6 for polishing, setting 5 for waxing. I lurked a bit in the Maguire's online detailing forum and saw that people like much slower settings--3 or 4.
The 4.5 setting worked well for me.
I suggest you start with the middle setting to feel the characteristics of the machine, then work your way up. My guys hardly use it full throttle, but then again we're dealing with fresh paint. Although your paint is hard already, that doesnt mean ya can't burn it.
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