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Old 01-17-2013, 02:04 PM   #21 (permalink)
 
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Another question.
The old frame had the crossmember brackets holding it in. The crossmember is rusted on the ends so is unusable. I was going to reuse the pocket brackets but the crossmember from the new frame has a raised section that won't slide into the brackets so it looks like I'll have to just bolt it to the frame. Should there be rubber insulators between the crossmember and frame?



Thank's in advance.

Allan

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Old 01-18-2013, 06:25 PM   #22 (permalink)
 
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I believe Chevy used a tubular crossmember that bolted directly to the frame on each side with no rubber.
Buick, Olds and Pontiac A body cars used a stamped/shaped steel crossmember with tabs that fit into rubber "sandwiches". The sandwich was retained by a clamshell clamp thingy and two bolts on each side. I think the BOP cars did it this way to remove just a little more drivetrain vibrations since they were a bit more upscale from the chevys.

I'd say just use whatever works.
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Old 12-06-2013, 12:43 PM   #23 (permalink)
 
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Wow! Almost a year has passed. Time to get back onto this. I need to make some room in the shop. lol
I'm ready to reinstall the engine into the frame and install the 4 speed. Before I do, I'm replacing the pan gasket and rear main seal. I bought the one piece pan gasket and Neoprene (?) rear seal. Is there any trick to installing the two piece rear seal? Anything I need to do when installing the pan gasket? Any installation tips would be appreciated.

I'm also replacing the rear cam plug as it was leaking. I was told by the parts guy to use Permatex 3H on the plug before installing. Have any of you used this stuff before?







Thanks in advance,

Allan
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Old 12-07-2013, 11:34 AM   #24 (permalink)
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The seal should have come with instructions --- and you should follow them as exactly as you possibly can. When I did mine, the instructions said to seat the seal fully into the groove (cap and block) then carefully trim the ends so that they protrude above the mating surface exactly 1/32" -- and be careful to make the cuts smooth and square. For final assembly fill the 'holes' in the groove with silicone sealant, put a skim coat of sealant on the ends of the seal where you trimmed it, install, torque, and let it sit for 24 hours. You should do this only when you're ready for the crank to go in and stay in because you don't want to disturb the seal after it's installed.

I did all that on my 461 - to the letter - and it still leaks

I'm guessing that most of the reason is because I also had my block align honed, and that process results in the seal groove being slightly egg-shaped instead of round. If I "get around" to re-doing it, the next time I'm going to use one of the graphite-impregnated rope seals.


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Old 12-07-2013, 11:56 AM   #25 (permalink)
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I've done 3 of these seals so far, and all of them are leak free several years down the road. None of the engines I did were line-honed or bored. You must have CLEAN surfaces and follow the instructions. The crank must be lifted up a bit to get the upper half in cleanly. The crank's oil sling hash marks must NOT intrude on the lip surface of the seal. If yours does, get a graph-tite square rope seal. I have never believed in the one piece pan gaskets, as I've always had great results from the multi-piece units. Just a clean, straight pan, and a dab of the right permatex in the corners. Do NOT overtighten the pan bolts. A nut driver works great instead of a wrench. Looking at your block, you need to knock out ALL the freeze plugs and install brass ones. I did a total reseal on my 400 in the '67 in '11, and wasn't going to, but after looking at what was behind one of them (rust), I did the whole thing. Knock 'em in, and pull 'em out with pliers. Easy peasy.
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Old 01-08-2014, 09:27 PM   #26 (permalink)
 
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swap

I'm doing a similar swap to 4spd and possibly front discs. Did you go with no or used disc parts? Mine is a 64 convertible too.
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Old 01-13-2014, 01:44 PM   #27 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bustac View Post
I'm doing a similar swap to 4spd and possibly front discs. Did you go with no or used disc parts? Mine is a 64 convertible too.
I haven't done anything regarding the disc brake swap. I'm still considering it. I will definitely be going with a dual reservoir master cylinder though.
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Old 05-04-2014, 07:22 PM   #28 (permalink)
 
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Holy crap..... just another 6 months and I finally got the engine resealed.... Thanks to some help from a great guy. Hopefully the next update doesn't take another 6 months. To replace the rear main seal all the mains and rod caps had to come off. All the bearings look new. Definitely a low mileage engine as I had been told.



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Old 07-02-2014, 01:29 PM   #29 (permalink)
 
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A bit of an update. Replaced the smaller Skylark sway bar with the beefier one off the original frame and cleaned up the frame engine mounts from the original frame for reinstallation.
Getting closer for engine/tranny install.



Unfortunately while moving the frame around on the week-end, one of the body mounts fell off and rolled into an open hole in the floor (old vacuum pipe for a dust collection system). Would someone have a single new body mount they'd be willing to sell me?

Thanks in advance.

Allan
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Old 07-03-2014, 09:41 AM   #30 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Al T View Post

Unfortunately while moving the frame around on the week-end, one of the body mounts fell off and rolled into an open hole in the floor (old vacuum pipe for a dust collection system). Would someone have a single new body mount they'd be willing to sell me?

Thanks in advance.

Allan
I have a couple left over from my 66 restoration, if they are what you need PM me your address and I send them to you.

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