That's the problem. You shouldn't run with no shims, and even if you removed it, you wouldn't be close to spec.....you need to go much more. It's off-set shafts or, what I previously recommended: get rid of those spindles and bolt on some '69-'72 GM spindles and carry on. You can't fix it by leaving it as is.
ANY time you install something not stock you run the risk of having problems. I am not saying don't ever do it, hell, you should see what all I am doing to my car. But you have to be aware of that and be prepared to deal with the consequences.
Rule 1-no matter what the manufacturer says, NOTHING is ever truly a bolt on.
Rule 2-repeat Rule 1 over and over and over everytime you think about doing anything.
Rule 3-relax, it's only money. :-)
05, running with the bare A-Arm shaft in contact with the frame won't hurt anything, but it's not normally done or accepted in the auto repair industry. If you need to run with no shims due to camber issues, you could have a sagged frame (common), worn ball joints (uppers, usually) which is more common, or worn/shifted bushings. There are barbaric proceedures for "rolling" the frame, which involves a frame pulling rack, and applying a ton of force to the bottom of the crossmember while pulling the A arm areas outward. This is to pull the frame back into shape and rectify "big block sag" that happens over time. I was getting ready to do this on my '67 because I was all out of adjustment room, even got an estimate from a frame shop, and then I discovered my totally worn out upper ball joints were the culprit. I replaced them and then the car all of the sudden needed the shims put back in....a bunch of them. The Moog and TRW off-set A arm shaft is a solid, dependable fix for frame sag, and is a totally acceptable and unnoticeable repair. The guy at the frame shop looked at the panel fit on my goat and warned me that a frame roll could potentially cause my panel fit to get really sloppy. As I said, I lucked out with the ball joints. But I recommend using the off-set shafts if you are running bare with no shims. Just my 2 cents........
I'll be honest and tell you guys what I'm going to do. I'm going to leave the damn thing as is for 5 or 6 months and keep working on other things. Then, I'm likely going to call up that SC&C guy and make sure they listen to my entire story, understand how I am going to use the car, and put together an entire package for me that will work.
I'll also be sure to tell them that I want to know about modifications that are needed to get it installed.
I believe my negative camber is a result of the back of the car being raised due to the Chevelle 12 bolt, all of the bushings and ball joints were replaced when I purchased the car in 07. Thanks for your input, I may have the alignment rechecked, I'm using another shop with better equipment for alignments.
05, and alignment check (4 wheel) with and SAI (steering axis inclination) readouts done by a competent tech on good equipment will tell the story. As you just said, the entire car's suspension comes into play. My '67 once had a pulling issue to the right....everything up front was right on the money. Did a 4 wheel alignment, and found a 2 degree thrust angle at the rear end (rear end was cocked to the left a hair). Turned out to be a damaged upper control arm and shifted bushing. Replacing the bushings cured the mysterious pull. If your car drives fine and doesn't eat tires, I wouldn't really worry about it.
first thing i did when i got the Tempest roadworthy was take it to a buddy's shop and have 4 wheel alignment done as the whole suspension had been replaced (and some shims lost during the process). The ride to and from the shop were like night and day, he said it was a chore to get it in spec. but he is used to it as he works on many of the local car scenes muscle cars and classics. At any speed my wheel is dead straight with no pull driving or braking, bumps less harsh, tracks well in the corners for a 3800 lb 16' long car ,to tell you the truth it rides better than most of the new cars i have had. Now 05 has me wondering if i should do the 12-bolt swap that i have laying on the floor, let us know what you find out.... Ghost, i would worry if i left it on the car for 5-6 months as stated whether they would try and wiggle out of any "verbal, implied and/or written warranty" (legal puts these little caveats in there for a reason, believe me, i know) as even if you don't drive it you "used" the parts.
I almost forgot about those offset shafts like gt indicated. Had to put some on my old boss' goat some 25 years ago. With no shims, you couldn't even zero it out-too much negative camber. (I do believe he had a drop kit in it). Stuck those babies on and that was that! Everyone wore smiles that day. Not saying that's what you should do, but that might be something you may want to further investigate. Also, like instg8 said, if you're going to talk to someone about your previous purchase, I wouldn't put that off at all... 6 months down the road, they will act like they never heard of you at all, (if they're anything like some of places I've had the displeasure of doing business with). Luck to you.
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