I've been doing alignments for a long time like GEETOGUY and I don't seem to understand how you ended up with negative camber in the first place. The spindle center line dropped two inches...straight down, that doesn't make sense to me that it would increase negative camber. The only way camber is affected is by the mounting position of the upper , lower arms or ball joints, unless the overall spindle heights are not the same and then that would lead one to believe those spindles are not correct(probably to short). I agree the offset upper arm is a great way to 'fix' this issue, we used them on the F-body for increasing negative on the right and increasing positive on the left side for oval track racing.
As far as the shim issue...shim quantity is directly related to caster/camber optimum settings. We all know these cars have poor camber gain upon compression and so it helps to start at .5 degrees negative, but getting 3.5 degrees caster can be a challenge. I don't know the exact factory specs but these are good numbers. Rules to remember more caster is high speed stability and negative camber gain is higher corning speed.
1964 400 4 speed Roller cammed RoadRacer
1969 400 T400 auto 2nd owner
2004 LS1 6 speed modded for roadracing
1966 GTO Altered wheelbase former 1970s show car
1973 Challenger 360/727
1931 Ford Model A
I can't return parts that were purchased new to an ebay seller and have been put on the car and driven on. It was a brake kit, with drop spindles. It wasn't even my credit card that bought the junk.
I'm eating that one. I'll try and sell it on craigslist locally when I replace it.
Again, this all comes back to a guy with a mentality that always goes with "you don't need all of that, just buy the cheap one".
The cheap one just wasted $1,500 and now I'm back where I started.
I want this car to confidently rail around canyon curves, motor around mountain roads, and stop like a vette. I don't want a race car, but I do want a car that I can drive without getting a pit in my stomach coming down a steep, curvy mountain road with multiple 25 mph corners. Applying further bandaids to something that is not going to work for me in the end is just wasting more cash.
While I'm at this step, I'm going to have the entire under body and frame cleaned up and painted.
hate to chime in but I remember you asking everyone about drop suspension and brake packages not to long ago- seems you chose to ignore advice from many folks who have done what you were trying to do. Use this forum wisely young grasshopper and you will prosper. Try Pro-touring.com if you REALLY want some insight to proper suspension set-up. I myself am NOT a suspension guru by any means,-BUT I was able to set my car up and enjoy a very nice handling ride with information gathered here and from other sites.
Listen to those whom have made the mistakes already it will save you much frustration and $$$.
all you should need is stock GM disk brake spindles as GTO said in the 2nd post, the calipers and everything else should still work with stock spindles. All drop spindles do is raise the spindle in the geometry to drop the car. I am running the same Moog springs, with the 455 they will settle in and you won't have to worry about chewing up your rubber and/or fenders on tight parkinglot turns.
hate to chime in but I remember you asking everyone about drop suspension and brake packages not to long ago-
I hate to retort, but the stuff that is on the car now was already put on the car at that time. I did not ignore any advice. The damage was already done. I was trying to gather information then, as I was with this thread because what someone installed on my car (again, someone I trusted... long damn story....) seemed incorrect to me.
The other thread was more vague, trying to find out what everyone else uses so I could compare what I had, to what they were using. This thread is about the camber issue with these specific spindles, AFTER putting the recommended springs on the front that this forum told me to do.
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