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Old 03-15-2008, 10:11 PM   #11 (permalink)
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WOW Rukee, that sucks!

Did he spray the base coat over the single stage that you sprayed on? I believe I remember you saying the original paint came from NAPA which is actually Sherwin Williams. What brand was the Base Coat and clear coat?

I'll have my painter look at these pictures and get his input, he's been painting for 40 years.
I believe he did spray it over the single stage. Yes I used Sherwin Williams paint. I don`t know what he used and all his bill says is "paint and materials $561.04", then 6hrs to' repair imperfections', and 11hrs for 'mask, paint complete'.
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Old 03-15-2008, 10:58 PM   #12 (permalink)
 
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Rukee, as a fellow Blue Charcoal '65 guy, my heart goes out to you. As stated, the painter should pay to pull the trim, the top, strip the car, the whole thing. I would get an estimate at a reputable painter's, and take the guy to court if he didn't offer to pay. In California, the cost of fixing your car would be in excess of 5k. That said, it is clearly a case of incompatible materials: the solvents in the base coat are still evaporating, and trashing the top coat. I've seen this happen before, with laquer based paints and enamel based paints used together. Looks to me like the painter used the WRONG STUFF. Again, I"M pissed off looking at your car. But, it can be fixed, so take heart. Good luck, and keep us posted. Take care..........
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Old 03-16-2008, 10:06 AM   #13 (permalink)
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That blows!! and summer is coming too! Hope you can get 'er fixed right. Good luck.
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Old 03-16-2008, 10:10 AM   #14 (permalink)
 
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If you were satisfied with the job before the "reaction", I would find out why this occurred, and give the shop that did the job a chance to make things right. The bottom line is: you want a 1965 GTO that looks like you want it to look. The guy who screwed up (probably by accident), more likely than not, dosesn't want a bad rep, legal trouble, etc........See what he will do for you.
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Old 03-16-2008, 10:24 AM   #15 (permalink)
 
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Good advice animal
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Old 03-16-2008, 11:16 AM   #16 (permalink)
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He said he can get it in in a week and a half or so. And I do plan on him fixing it. I told him if he used the wrong products that`s not my problem. And added if I used the wrong products on a customers car I would have to make it right. If I put motor oil in the radiator and contaminated the cooling system, I`d have to flush it all out, refill it and not charge the customer for that no matter what the cost of my screw up, and I expect him and his paint reps to take care of this.
The paint is also changing, the rippling has calmed down some. It seems to change by the minute getting worse in some spots, and some really bad spots almost smoothing out again. You can almost use your finger and smooth out the ripples, but not quite. I almost have it ready to take back there, I got the interior out, the chrome and emblems off, I just need to change the wheels around and it`ll be ready to go.
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Old 03-16-2008, 12:05 PM   #17 (permalink)
 
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Rukee: Sounds like your Goat is REALLY a snake and is just shedding it's skin! LOL! I like Eric's statement about giving the guy the opportunity to fix the car. Judging by the way the car looked last week, he did a great job. It looks like a materials mix-up. Good luck with the repaint, and take care.
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Old 03-17-2008, 02:08 PM   #18 (permalink)
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It seems to be heaviest in the left rear quarter and gets progressively better as you go around the car to the right rear. I wonder if it could be as simple as his gun was contaminated or not cleaned out properly? It`s also calmed down a ton, you can still see it but it`s not as bad as in the pics anymore. I have all the chrome off sept the windshield, back glass trim, the vinyl top chrome, and the drip rails. I don`t have the right tools. :/
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Old 03-17-2008, 03:21 PM   #19 (permalink)
 
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It seems to be heaviest in the left rear quarter and gets progressively better as you go around the car to the right rear. I wonder if it could be as simple as his gun was contaminated or not cleaned out properly? It`s also calmed down a ton, you can still see it but it`s not as bad as in the pics anymore. I have all the chrome off sept the windshield, back glass trim, the vinyl top chrome, and the drip rails. I don`t have the right tools. :/
I'm with Eric. Give the original painter another chance, but I would treat him like a doctor treating a loved one. What I mean is that you should be able to tell him what the right paint, solvent, undercoat, etc. is before he starts the job so that you can ensure that the right materials are used. Of course this is not life and death, but spring is just around the corner. Good luck.
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Old 03-18-2008, 03:34 AM   #20 (permalink)
 
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Rukee,

Well i had told you when you painted the car not everyone can do it and also he should of known not to mix spraying materials if he is a professional painter.You should never mix materials especially if you use junk paint the first time.Sherwin Williams paint is remanufactured house paint into auto paint.It is garbage.You get when you pay for if you use PPG or Dupont or House of Kolor it will give you a overall better job and you get what you pay for.It is like buying a tool from habor freight for $5 and buying a tool from snap on for $50 for the same tool the snap on tool is better quality and will last longer same with paint materials.When he repaints make sure you use good stuff cause the job you get is as only as good as the materials you use.When you painted the car yourself the first time we had this talk and i told you the same thing then.It is not to be mean or anything just giving you some advice.I paint cars i know what i am talking about.

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