A/c delete questions / car build update - Pontiac GTO Forum
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-12-2012, 08:27 PM Thread Starter
 
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A/c delete questions / car build update

A lot has happened since my last post. I have built a 455 .30 over, removed the gas tank and sumped it, 1/2 aluminum fuel line, acquired a msd 6AL box, and so on. My question for this thread is has anyone removed the a/c from their A-body pontiac and what delete panels/other ideas did you use to cover the holes. I have found a delete panel at BMR suspension which is the correct shape but doesnt account for the bulging out of the firewall, which could be easily metal worked away but I want to have the ability to return the car to stock. any help would be awesome!
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-12-2012, 08:29 PM Thread Starter
 
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those are the bearings after a fine tuning up from my engine builder paul at koerner racing engines in Tucson Az. Also I will be taking the A arms off and detailing them when the motor is in and also installing drop spindles
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-12-2012, 10:39 PM
 
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I made my own delete plate out of 14ga sheet metal. It covers the entire right side of the firewall from the fender mount to the center right behind the dist, from the top of the cowl to the body mount box. I cut the lip off of the A/C hole and welded 1/2" angle iron to the back of it on the interior side so it wouldn't become a giant drum. The angle iron also gives me a place to mount my aftermarket heater box or A/C so I wouldn't have to drill any holes in my now smoothed firewall. I covered the welds with 3M seam sealer, then painted the entire firewall with POR-15.

1969 GTO
NUMBERS MATCHING
PAWN SHOP FIND
1947 MGTC
GRANDFATHER STARTED
RESTORATION IN 1980...


"You can have it all, my emipre of dirt. I will let you down, I will make you hurt"
NIN
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-13-2012, 12:18 PM
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Garage
Not what you asked, but please make sure you support that aluminum line with solid, positive mounts very frequently (every couple of feet). If it vibrates/wiggles at all, it'll tend to work harden and crack, creating leaks. None of us want to hear about you losing your car to a fire..

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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-13-2012, 08:41 PM Thread Starter
 
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good ideas goatee! and thanks bear safety is always very important ill make sure it is secure
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-14-2012, 04:12 PM
 
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Edit: I used 1 inch angle iron, not 1/2". Also, to add to the description, I used cardboard to make the template, so I would only have to cut the sheet metal once. I picked up the 4x4 ft sheet metal at a local steel surplus center (The Yard Store) for about $12, plus a box full of used cleecos for less than $10.

1969 GTO
NUMBERS MATCHING
PAWN SHOP FIND
1947 MGTC
GRANDFATHER STARTED
RESTORATION IN 1980...


"You can have it all, my emipre of dirt. I will let you down, I will make you hurt"
NIN
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-26-2012, 05:40 PM
 
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I used the one from BMR also and also wanted to leave the option to rtn to fact ac if needed it does have a slight bulge to it when installed but I used seam sealer inside and out and then used Eastwood underhood paint to refinish the fire wall is respectable at the fender well I just fabed a 16ga piece and did the same I wanted to be able to rtn to ac if the car is ever sold.
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-29-2012, 10:03 PM Thread Starter
 
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sweet! i believe i am going to order the BMR piece tomorrow so i can get my inner fender back in and keep getting this all back together! i picked up my cleaned out gas tank and will be putting the sump in it this weekend hopefully
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