Pontiac GTO Forum banner

Car wont start

5K views 10 replies 5 participants last post by  Lemans guy 
#1 ·
New here,first post :)

I have a 67 lemans that i was having starter issues with. I put in a high torque mini starter,everything went flawless.I crawled out from under the car,without taking a quick double check of wires,and hooked up the battery.
Turns out i should have looked lol. When i touched the cable to the battery it did a pretty loud arch. I knew immediately what it was and crawled under and fixed the problem.Now the car cranks beautifully,problem is thats all it does. Engine ran fantastic before this happened.It wants to fire it just wont start.I checked fuses but there isnt a ignition fuse(i was hoping). Starter wires are hooked up properly. Has spark,or it wouldnt want to fire.
Any help on what it could be is greatly appreciated.Im on the road 6 days a week so next i work on it im hoping to focus on just the few things it could be. Thanks in advance :)
 
#4 ·
Fusible link is likely (not sure they had them in 67 though), points less so, but backfeeding could have done anything.

Does it try to start? Quick test - don't release the key all the way when you crank it. It if tries to fire, release the key about half way to run. You should be able to disengage the starter but stay on the IGN 2 side of the start circuit. If it runs, you know where the issue is. I had a similar issue with mine and installed a chrysler style ballast resistor on IGN 1. Much easier to change if you have an issue, and a simple paper clip will get you home if it fails. (IGN 2 provides more voltage to the points, IGN 1 is a resistor wire that adds life to the points)

 
#5 ·
If the car spins over and sounds like it wants to start, run a jumper wire directly off your battery to the + (Pos) side of the coil to bypass the ignition switch. This is just a test and you don't want to run it long at all, just fire it on the key to spin the engine like normal to see if providing a power source to the coil will do it. If so, then you will have to trace back through your ignition wiring to figure out where your problem is. Your car will not shut off using the key with the wire hooked to the coil, so you will have to pull it off to stop the engine. (Remember, if for some reason your car will not shut down, pull the coil wire and it will stop. I would also suggest having the positive battery cable snug, but loose in case you have to pull the power. Nothing worse than the smell of wires frying because some wire has grounded/shorted out and you cannot stop it from melting down because you cannot disconnect the power.)

Ignition switches go bad as the point contacts wear out inside the housing and require an ignition switch replacement - happened to my car. New ignition switch and I was good to go. So this may be your problem IF your wiring checks out and you have power going to the switch but not coming out when you let the key snap back to the "Run" position.

If that does not work, then you may have other issues within the ignition system, ie bad coil, burned/mis-adjusted point gap, bad coil wire, bad rotor, bad/cracked cap, out of timing, etc. as there are many things it can be and you will have to eliminate these one by one to know what it is. :thumbsup:
 
#7 ·
synstr...you said"...."has spark or it would't want to fire".......it will still turn over and FEEL like it wants to fire with no spark.......

on a no start condition, I first add gas to tank (regardless of gauge level).....

then proceed that gas jets into carb...

then actually check spark at the plug....with a spark checker or...

just get an extra spark plug, pull of one plug wire attach to spare and "ground" spare plug threads ......

makes it easier than holding stuff etc, have a helper crank and look for spark, if no spark check back to dist cap, rotor, coil etc.....

you may have fried the coil.....
 
#8 ·
#11 ·
you will get it, that arcing may not have hurt anything,...if you are lucky! and you needed the diode all along. that ballast resister wire lets the points run at like 9 volts instead of 12 so they don't burn,.....but at cranking it gets a full twelve, when the key is all the way over. when you release the key to run it goes back to 9 volts or so......
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top