Exhaust port "D" ??? - Page 2

fredyG · 11-14-2012, 06:48 PM

This are the photos I took today, after cleaning. Piston # 4 is there (second from right) I think the block can be saved, eventhought the cylinder wall are very corroted. But the heads....

, after cleaning a little, 3 valves heads came off by them selve by corrosion, the valve seats.... thank you very much, you don't see them. Tomorrow I'm taking apart the crankshaft (if I can) and start hitting with a piece of wood the pistons to see if I can take them off. being pretty sure that's the original engine, I must save the heads. Of course , the logical move is to go to the milling shop summerge the heads and block in acid, reedo valve seats and guides, new valves, etc and mill the cylinder heads the minimun possible. lets see what we get. Here are the "today pictures"' be in touch. any recomendation, be free to say it. TYou

ALKYGTO · 11-15-2012, 05:42 AM

Wow, you have a project my friend. I'd invest in a case of PB blaster and soak that mother down. Hopefully that will help in disassembly.

Heads should be saveable IMO unless they are cracked. Block may or may not need to be sleeved depending on the level of corrosion.

And as others have said....Good Luck!

Thrillseeker · 11-15-2012, 02:55 PM

Wow, did someone use that as a salt water boat anchor? Lots of WD-40 and a good soaking at the machine shop should get it apart and clean. I hope the block and heads are salvageable. Good luck and keep us posted.

fredyG · 11-17-2012, 08:41 AM

While I'm taking my engine to the milling shop, I'm starting to search for new parts (Engine Master rebuilding kit) including valves. Members, who do you recommend that have and sell good quality parts ? I need "almost" the complete engine. I'll like TRW, Comp Cams, Federal Mogul, Milodon, etc. One notch up stock engine and run with 95 oct. "Happy" Street use. Any good idea ??? Summit ?? Thank you

BearGFR · 11-17-2012, 12:03 PM

My recommendation? Call Jim at Central Virginia Machine. That's where I bought the huge majority of my parts.

Bear

fredyG · 11-18-2012, 09:26 AM

Thank you BearGFR, I got in Central Virginia M. web page and saw their products. probably I'll get in touch with them, but I whant my engine Original Specs plus bolt on stuff (aluminum manifold, Headers) and a modern cam. hear are some pictures of the work done yesterday. I manage to "extract" 5 pistons, but they were really jammed. I had to hit them really hard with a steel bar from under and to the pinston pin. I smashed them but they were no good anyway. Here are sone pictures. By the way, the crank is in excellent condition. keep in touch

BearGFR · 11-18-2012, 01:58 PM

Just rememeber, this is a Pontiac - not a chevy. They're worlds apart in what works on them and how to make power with them. By far the lion's share of information you'll run into especially from large vendors will be people who try to treat them the same as the bow ties ---- that's a mistake. That's why I steered you towards Jim at CVMS. He builds more than just Pontiacs at his engine shop, so he's not 'blind' to other makes, but when it comes to the Indian he knows his stuff - for sure.

For example, why are you interested in an aluminum manifold?

Bear

fredyG · 11-21-2012, 07:28 AM

Bear. This is how the pistons had to be taken off (the 3 mouseketeer) (see photo), but the cylinders are find. Todat if I have the time, is the turn of the heads. I am worried about the block water passages. The upper water passages or are close or have really small holes (rust obstructed ??) This doesnt look right to me, but I am not familiar with Pontiac blocks. What do you see here ??? Crank is fine. Why aluminum intake manifold ?? because of weight and efficiency. Standard manifolds (series production) design by factory are never as efficient as special purpose design. If I'm not going 100% original, why use heavy weight components ? For instance, my right exhaust manifold has a hole because of rust (there ia a photo in upper thread), I'm going to headers, less weight and more efficiency. I'm not going to any track, this is for the pleasure of driving a "happy" GTO. keep in touch and advise

fredyG · 11-21-2012, 07:33 AM

This pictures completemts the above thread

BearGFR · 11-21-2012, 12:29 PM

Reason I asked 'why aluminum' --- the fact is, no aftermarket manifold will perform as well on a street Pontiac than a cleaned up, port-matched factory cast iron manifold. The notion that after-market aluminum will always be 'better' is what I call "Chevy thinking". True, it will save you some weight, but that's it. In terms of torque and power in the street Pontiac rpm range (5200 and below), that fancy aluminum manifold is going to cost you power, not make it. This fact has been proven time and time again through actual testing. Fact is, Pontiac didn't gain its reputation 'back in the day' because the factory engineers were idiots. Pontiacs are torque engines, and it comes on early in the rpm range - nothing feeds that better than a clean dual plane intake and that's just reality.
It's the same reason they don't need (or like) a lot of gear to be quick. My 69, at about 4000 lbs. race weight, has a best e.t. so far of 11.86 @ 113 - that's on pump gase, with 3.50 gears and running the trans in Drive - and it shifting at 5000 rpm. I can drive the car anywhere I want, and do.

As far as the water passages in your block, don't panic yet. For whatever reason, I know that there are passages in the heads that meet with blind passages in the block - do sime internet searches, grab some books, and look at other blocks. You'll probably find that you're not as bad off as you think.

I run headers on my car too, but honestly unless you're trying to get every last bit of performance out of the engine it's very hard to beat the manifolds like you have. For about the cost of a good quality set of ceramic coated headers you could have a reproduction set of those manifolds from Ram Air Restorations - "most" of the performance and none of the fitment/clearance/longevity of headers. Your choice on that deal.

Bear