First thing I checked was the connections on the alternator. To see if the Generator light would go out but it didn't. Then I bought a rebuilt new working alternator. Installed it. And the Generator light is still on.
Checked the battery connections also, don't know if its tight enough still though. I'm also wondering if it is the battery connections. Like say if it's connected correctly, but it's not on tight enough, and it can still turn on, then can the generator light still turn on due to it not being tight enough and still work?
Or if it could be a bad voltage regulator. If there is even is one? Or is that in the alternator itself?
Yes, it could be a bad regulator, or a bad plug in connector on the back of the alternator. Use a load tester, charger or multimeter and check the battery voltage to see if the alternator is putting out voltage, when running it should be over 13 volts, or a higher voltage than when not running. Is the battery going dead? You can also disconnnect the battery hot and see if the car stays running, if it stays running, the alt is putting out voltage.
If the car has been converted to a SINGLE WIRE ALT with built in regulator, this could cause the problem also....there are 2 wires to the Alt light. 1goes to the #1 terminal on the ignition switch,along with the other "idiot lights". The other wire goes through the fire wall connector, to the #4 terminal io the regulator (black box on fire wall)....if this connection is weak,faulty bad regulator, poor dash ground, bad alternator, you will get a light on. :cheers E
Yeah, I just found out. Problem was is that the alternator I replaced apparently had a voltage regulator inside of it. And this new one doesn't. So I need to buy an external voltage regulator.
Good timing (or bad?) I have the same problem with my 70. I did not change the alternator. I believe it has an external regulator. The gen light stays on in the key off position. But if I pull the battery and reconnect it after a while, the gen light is out. Fix?
Always replace the regulator anytime you replace the alt, and vise~versa.
And never buy the cheaper regulator, they rarely work right. Get the better one, it may cost more but it works.
Is there a reason for that? He was going to buy the regulator box also because the Gen light indicator was still on. But when he noticed he just had it hooked up wrong. There was no need to buy it.
I recommend replacing both at once. It IS possible that a bad alt could burn-out a regulator, and a bad regulator could burn-out an alt over time. Better to just replace both and not risk it. IMO.
Okay, today, after idling the car, I shut it down and started hearing the regulator vibrating. Then all hell broke loose.
The wires to the alternaotor started smoking! I yanked the negative cable as fast as I could. But I think most of the primary wiring from the switch down is fried.
It could be the REGULATOR. possibly the ignition switch. or a shorted wire somewhere in between. I think there are 3 wires from the reg to the ignition switch, see if anything under the dash fried, then check the ign.sw.. Maybe the old regulator was bad (2nd choice). You could have a short somewhere (3rd choice).
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