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Old 01-17-2013, 03:13 PM   #11 (permalink)
 
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Thanks geeteeohguy, that makes total sense.
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Old 01-29-2013, 02:20 AM   #12 (permalink)
 
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Re: Upper Control Arm Removal

Wish I would have read this before I did mine last week. I used an extension, ratchet and breaker bar. Now I need to fined new bolts as my splines are now rounded.

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Old 01-30-2013, 02:24 PM   #13 (permalink)
 
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Once the splined bolt is fully seated, can one position the control arm/shims in place and torque the lock nut to spec without a wrench on the bolt head? That is, are the fully seated splines strong enough to keep the bolt from turning, or could they become stripped even after seating?
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Old 01-30-2013, 03:10 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Yes. The splines will hold the bolt in place. That's how we do them in industry. You only turn the nut, never the bolt. Very simple. SDGoat 619, you can try new bolts, but if you spun them in the frame and wiped the splines, you also wiped the frame too...the new bolts will probably spin, too. Once the holes are hogged out, that's it....you'll have to use a socket and a wrench to remove/install shims....makes alignment very awkward.
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Old 01-30-2013, 04:12 PM   #15 (permalink)
 
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Re: Upper Control Arm Removal

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Originally Posted by geeteeohguy View Post
Yes. The splines will hold the bolt in place. That's how we do them in industry. You only turn the nut, never the bolt. Very simple. SDGoat 619, you can try new bolts, but if you spun them in the frame and wiped the splines, you also wiped the frame too...the new bolts will probably spin, too. Once the holes are hogged out, that's it....you'll have to use a socket and a wrench to remove/install shims....makes alignment very awkward.
This news is awesome....." Very sarcastic tone ". Ha I will try new bolts first and hope they seat and get lucky.

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Old 01-30-2013, 04:21 PM   #16 (permalink)
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It's a gamble, but you could try using GREEN Loctite on the bolt shoulders where they go through the frame to see if that will lock them in. Be careful not to get that stuff on the threads where the nuts go because supposedly removing green loctite-ed fasteners requires heat.

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Old 01-30-2013, 06:10 PM   #17 (permalink)
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SD, yes, I can be a turd sometimes, and I apologize. Bear brough up something that didn't occur to me while posting my sarcastic rant, and it's a great idea...I've used the green loctite "sleeve locker" on some pretty sloppy stuff, and it works great. That, and the sharp new splines on the new bolts might put you back in business. Also, with any luck, the bolt splines are softer than the frame, and took the brunt of the abuse. Sarcastic or not, wishing you the best results. And I have to admit, I've destroyed my fair share of "stuff" due to lack of knowledge. The good thing is, once you learn, you know better the next time!!
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Old 01-30-2013, 08:44 PM   #18 (permalink)
 
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geeteeohguy --

I think SD's "very sarcastic tone" comment was intended as a characterization of his own comment "This is awesome news", not as a characterization of what you were saying. At least that is how I read it.
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Old 01-30-2013, 09:06 PM   #19 (permalink)
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You're right, '70, and thanks for the support. I still could have been a bit more tactful, though! Live and learn.......
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Old 01-31-2013, 06:15 PM   #20 (permalink)
 
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I never mean to sound disrespectful and that sarcastic tone was for myself not directed towards any of you. I am here to learn and want to make sure everyone knows that I truly appreciate all of your help. I was more frustrated with myself. Also the fact that the city flagged my car as a "public nuisance" for sitting on a private driveway, under a car cover with my front end disassembled and on jack stands. Now I have 7 days to fix and get back in business. Performance Years has the bolts with splines and OPGI has bolts without. I called a rep at OPGI and he assured me that it made no differance also that the ones they have come with washers. So now I am thinking that with some lockwashers and new bolts from the hardware store and some locktite could I be back in business.
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