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post #21 of 93 (permalink) Old 01-07-2013, 12:02 AM
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Have you bled all the air out of the lines?

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post #22 of 93 (permalink) Old 01-07-2013, 08:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Antsrcool View Post
Well I think I have everything hooked up properly. However I have no rear brakes. I have low pressure to the rear. Is the proportioning valve the same on drum? Or will I need to replace that? Also I see the brake pedal sits lower and the brake light switch is away from the pedal. Will I need a new switch? Or do I need a new pedal assembly? Trying to modernize this thing is proving to be a giant PITA
Did you thoroughly bench bleed the master before install ?? That is a common issue with no pressure to the rears. The distribution block is the same for drum and disc.
Low pedal....did you go from manual to power ? I don't remember, but the clevis at the pedal needs to be in the lower hole on the pedal for power. The clevis rod will have threads to adjust the reach. If the brake switch is close, you just need to adjust that towards the pedal until the brake lights go out.

Some pics of the booster/master, hard lines, hold off valve and distribution block would be helpful to see what you have.

Mitch
1967 GTO; Gulf Turquoise on Black, 4 speed, buckets SOLD
1967 Camaro ss/rs 350
1966 Chevelle SS 396
1966 Chevelle Malibu
1970 Chevelle SS 396
1962 Impala SS
1952 Chev 2 ton flat bed
1938 Chev coupe
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post #23 of 93 (permalink) Old 01-07-2013, 08:55 PM Thread Starter
 
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Ok I can get pics. Also I'll look under the dash. I'm pretty sure there was only one hole in the pedal? I will look again though. I did bench bleed the master as well. I have a power bleeder that I will try as a last resort.
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post #24 of 93 (permalink) Old 01-08-2013, 11:19 AM Thread Starter
 
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So I have pics now. It was indeed in the lower hole. However I adjusted the rod out as far as safely possible and there is still a good gap between brake light switch and pedal. I am considering just bending the bracket a little bit. I also replaced all rear brakes and hardware. The wheel cylinders appear to be seized so I replaced them as well.
http://i.imgur.com/hEjg0.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/W5nsb.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/XpQL2.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/kcPiU.jpg
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post #25 of 93 (permalink) Old 01-08-2013, 11:21 AM Thread Starter
 
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Haven't tried rebleeding since the new cylinders installed. Will update on that later today.
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post #26 of 93 (permalink) Old 01-08-2013, 07:40 PM Thread Starter
 
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Ok so brakes are perfect. Booster was bad and that's what was causing crummy brakes. New booster installed and took it for a maiden voyage. It drove pretty nice. Got it back and shut it off.....dead. Starter went. So install new starter and discover that the battery is not charging well. Alternator charges if I apply power to the right terminal on the plug. Not sure what that's all about. But it's a challenge but I'm narrowing down the issues. Probably going to need to install a rear main as it appears to he leaking pretty good.
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post #27 of 93 (permalink) Old 01-08-2013, 10:11 PM
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glad you got most of it working right. The brake switch should have a good inch of threads to get it to the arm, but if not, bending the bracket a little won't hurt either.

Mitch
1967 GTO; Gulf Turquoise on Black, 4 speed, buckets SOLD
1967 Camaro ss/rs 350
1966 Chevelle SS 396
1966 Chevelle Malibu
1970 Chevelle SS 396
1962 Impala SS
1952 Chev 2 ton flat bed
1938 Chev coupe
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post #28 of 93 (permalink) Old 01-10-2013, 07:04 PM Thread Starter
 
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Ok new solid state regulator and new alternator and we are charging at 14.1! Fixed all the rear lights.....I hate body grounded sockets! I also hate what a massive PITA the rear bulb sockets are to get to. Fixed all the poorly grounded sockets and it the directionals now work perfect. Bent the brake light switch bracket and now brake lights work. Took it for a ride and came back and starter just went CLICK. That hard infamous bad starter click. The new starter I just put in was junk. Replaced that again getting real good at taking this out I had to try about 5 shim combinations!
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post #29 of 93 (permalink) Old 01-17-2013, 06:36 PM Thread Starter
 
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Ok today I put in a new heater core and new blower motor. Then I tackled the headlight doors. Replaced about 10 miles of vacuum line and now the doors work perfect. It winks a little bit. Meaning one opens and closes a little faster then the other but I am going to live with that. So new actuators, line, headlamp switch, and bushing kit and the flip doors work. Tomorrow I will try and get it somewhere to get a new top put on it.
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post #30 of 93 (permalink) Old 01-17-2013, 07:05 PM
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You're making fast progress. It will be ready for summer cruisin'...

Mitch
1967 GTO; Gulf Turquoise on Black, 4 speed, buckets SOLD
1967 Camaro ss/rs 350
1966 Chevelle SS 396
1966 Chevelle Malibu
1970 Chevelle SS 396
1962 Impala SS
1952 Chev 2 ton flat bed
1938 Chev coupe
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  Pontiac GTO Forum > The 1964-1974 Pontiac Tempest, Lemans & GTO > 1964-1974 Tempest, LeMans & GTO Projects, Barn Finds & Restoration Discussions

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