1968 Gto engine is too low?? - Pontiac GTO Forum
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-21-2017, 09:07 PM Thread Starter
 
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1968 Gto engine is too low??

I have a 1968 Gto with a 428 engine. It has been in storage for years and I am getting it out to drive again and fix the jerry rigs from my earlier days. Since installing the engine it has always sat too low. The oil pan just barely touches the center link. The fan shroud had to be cut out on the bottom etc. I would guess-timate it sits 1" to 1.5" too low. I may be over estimating a tad, but not much. Do the "big" cars vs the intermediate bodies take different motor mounts? I could not imagine that the rubber insulators could be that bad? Any ideas?
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-22-2017, 09:52 AM
 
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I'm hoping some others will chime in on this as I'm not totally familiar with these problems......BUT I do know that the front crossmember of GM A-bodies (like GTO's) are notorious for sagging and this could be your problem. Others may have suggestions for how to fix this.

By the way, welcome to the Forum.
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-22-2017, 11:05 AM
 
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While high mile previous heavy engine A-body's do exhibit some degree of frame cradle sag, there are ways to get the oilpan clearance back.

To fix will require pulling the engine & removing each stamped steel frame stand. There are currently avail 1/4" thick steel spacers that mirror the profile of the '64-72 Pontiac A-body triangular shaped frame stands. I've made several pair myself over the years out of 1/8" plate using a piece of Masonite as a pattern along with my brothers plasma cutter. Removing, then replacing the frame stands with spacers can be a pain to access the nuts or bolt heads, up under the frame crossmember, if you are not removing the front coil springs & lower control arms, it can still be done. Tired of fumbling with extensions & universal joints, its time to bend a cheappee distributor wrench with an acetylene torch.

Another problem, for at least the last decade, most of the commonly avail transmission mounts are too thick & help tilt the engine/trans up slightly in the rear. That issue can be solved with taking an angle grinder to crossmember side of the trans mount. Best to you on the repair.
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-23-2017, 02:08 PM
 
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A few years ago, on my 68 the center link was slightly rubbing on the oil pan. Installed new motor mounts, now has about 1/2" gap
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-23-2017, 06:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mainegoat68 View Post
A few years ago, on my 68 the center link was slightly rubbing on the oil pan. Installed new motor mounts, now has about 1/2" gap
New motor mounts raised my engine up to correct the same problem, I would replace them especially if they are original.
I also replaced the tranny mount as well as the two rubber grommets on the ends of the crossmember.
Some pitting on the passenger side was filled with JB weld.
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-24-2017, 12:41 AM Thread Starter
 
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Thanks for your help everyone!!
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-24-2017, 10:31 AM
 
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There's a guy in the GTOAA named MIke Spizziri who makes and sells spacers like PINION HEAD was talking about. His phone number is 215-896-5379 and email is: [email protected]. I personally have not dealt with him but he's been a regular advertiser in The Legend , the GTOAA's magazine, so I assume he's OK or they would have pulled his ads.

If you are good are fabrication, I would just follow Pinion Head's directions and do your own spacers. Or you could PM Pinion Head to see if he is able to make you a pair of spacers. Failing that, you could contact Mr Spizziri for a pair.

Best of luck with this...let us know how it goes.

Last edited by 1968gto421; 11-24-2017 at 10:36 AM. Reason: spelling
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-26-2017, 05:52 PM
 
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It just so happens that I did this exact repair today. Well, at least I replaced the motor mounts in my 68 - I did it for a different reason, but the new mounts does seem to have it sitting up a little higher.

I decided to replace my mounts because 1) I noticed that when working the throttle under the hood, the entire engine moved quite a bit - too much, and 2) I was pulling the headers to replace with RA Manifolds so I'd have plenty of room to work.

Changing the mounts was kind of a pain, even with all the extra space. Interestingly, it was the RH side (passenger) that was more difficult. No matter how I raised or lowered the engine in tiny increments, the RH side wouldn't line up perfectly. I ended up using a small pry bar to move the mount just a tiny bit enough to get the bottom bolt through - the one that goes to the frame mount. Also - I couldn't get the torque wrench in on the front facing engine bolt. I'm hoping my internal torque sensor was close. :-)

To the point - this took a couple hours...4 or 5 if you count getting the old headers off. That's with jack stands, on my back in the garage. And the result is probably what will help your issue, at least somewhat. If your old mounts are really spent, may help a good bit.
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-28-2017, 08:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1968gto421 View Post
There's a guy in the GTOAA named MIke Spizziri who makes and sells spacers like PINION HEAD was talking about. His phone number is 215-896-5379 and email is: [email protected]. I personally have not dealt with him but he's been a regular advertiser in The Legend , the GTOAA's magazine, so I assume he's OK or they would have pulled his ads.

If you are good are fabrication, I would just follow Pinion Head's directions and do your own spacers. Or you could PM Pinion Head to see if he is able to make you a pair of spacers. Failing that, you could contact Mr Spizziri for a pair.

Best of luck with this...let us know how it goes.
Mike is a friend and an upstanding guy. I have those spacers Mike sells, I have yet to install them.
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-05-2019, 11:28 PM
 
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What mounts did you buy to get it raised up?
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