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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-08-2015, 06:55 PM Thread Starter
 
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66 gto

Hey guys I'm new to all of this so please and thank you for all of the help in advance. I currently am looking at a 66 GTO, here is the link

1966 Pontiac GTO for Sale | ClassicCars.com | CC-588427.

However I know that a lot of the car is not original such as the engine, seats, or paint job. I was wondering if anyone can tell me if the guys asking price is too much for this particular vehicle? Again I have not dealt with GTO's before but have always wanted one. Despite all of my research I am not sure of the cars desirability nor value for things it has on it. Any information is greatly appreciated! Thank you guys!
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-08-2015, 08:32 PM
 
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PERSONAL OPINION. Too much $ for a non-original non-number matching car.

Car has 138,000 plus miles. These are not todays cars which go 250-300,000 miles. The older cars wear out quicker-way quicker. So in your search you need to ask when the ball joints, tie rod ends, upper & lower front bushings were replaced, drag link, pitman arm, shocks, and even springs. If they have never been serviced, figure on adding more $ to the $ you will already invest.

You want to know when the engine was rebuilt and how many miles since. Depending on the mileage, you may be looking for a rebuild and a Pontiac rebuild is not inexpensive.

Same with the automatic. Is it a TH-400 or TH-350?

3.90 rear gears are going to kill gas mileage AND 3.90 gearing means the engine has most likely been run at higher RPM's at normal road speeds which Pontiac's don't particularly like - and means faster wear on all engine parts. The aftermarket tach signals to me that the owner had his fun with the car.

Not trying to poop on your dreams, but if you are not honest with yourself and don't know what to look for or question, you could have way too much into the car and never get your money back should you decide to sell it. On the other hand, if you have money to burn and it is not a concern, then that's different. Keep in mind that if you cannot do your own repairs and have to take it to some shop, this may cost you $ and it is real easy to get ripped off for poor services.

I noticed it has front drum brakes. BAD, even for original if you value your car. Disc brake conversion should be your first add-on to keep you and your car safe and seeing '66 is a single master cylinder system, you want to convert to the '67 and later dual mater cylinder.

Again, my opinion which is worth nothing in the grand scheme of things, so I am just sayin'.
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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-08-2015, 09:19 PM Thread Starter
 
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Thank you for the information! I emailed the dealership asking all of those questions and should have an answer back in a day or so. Hopefully good news. I figured he was asking too much just on the basis of how many parts are not original and was told the paint is cracking and crazing in certain areas. In your opinion what do you think the car value is worth? I agree in not wanting to get into a money pit and if I have too look elsewhere for another one I will, just caught my eye on this one for some reason and have been doing all the homework for it. I'd hate to give up on it just yet. But money will ultimately be the factor. I don't want to be caught throwing thousands into it.
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-10-2015, 05:23 PM
 
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Originally Posted by bohica103 View Post
In your opinion what do you think the car value is worth? I agree in not wanting to get into a money pit and if I have too look elsewhere for another one I will, just caught my eye on this one for some reason and have been doing all the homework for it. I'd hate to give up on it just yet. But money will ultimately be the factor. I don't want to be caught throwing thousands into it.

Putting a price is always a difficult subject. Many factors come in to play, including geography, and even time of the year. The mechanics is very important as these add up real quickly -especially if you have to farm out your work to someone else.

Personal Opinion, again. An honest price range would be much lower in my book, because now you are stating the paint has some blemishes. If it has the original interior, you probably will find some wear issues there as well. If the engine/mechanics are within a reasonable amount of miles since rebuilt or replaced, then I would go $12,000 to $15,000. Now if you look on the internet, you will see prices range from mid 20's and near $100 K for a few. I have watched 1 Judge that was up to $84K at one point and its now down to $64K and still for sale and its been well over a year or more. $64K is still too high in my opinion, but who knows.

Many of these high dollar cars don't sell as you would think. Many times trades or deals are made. I go to local car shows having many assorted cars for sale. I see the same cars for sale year after year after year. You can put any price tag on it you want, but it is only worth what a buyer is willing to pay, period. And DON'T believe any of those car shows that flip cars, its a TV show, not reality.

If you are willing to pay $27K for a non-numbers matching car, why not go a few more $K and get a numbers matching or completely rebuilt, turn key, low miles since rebuild type car that is non numbers matching? Numbers matching is certainly a better investment when selling -maybe. The non numbers matching car may or may not hold its value. Some resto-mod cars done right have a higher value than original. Now once you use it and put more miles and wear on it, the value drops additionally. Then should you try to get your money back out of it, it may take some body work, a new paint job, reupholstery work, engine/trans rebuild, etc. and now you technically have the original purchase price PLUS however many $thousands into it. Guarantee you will most likely sell at a good loss should you ever sell it. Keep it a lifetime and it doesn't matter.

Keep in mind as the boomer generation dies off or goes into retirement homes, the next generation is not as hot to have these "old" cars as they want much newer handling, braking, shifting, and electronic laden engines cranking out better mileage at near or better HP. So desire for these cars may drop and pricing goes down even more if you sell years from now.

My best advice is to do a lot of research into the car of your interest so you have a feel of pricing for what condition and what driveline. If you can't work on your car, talk to machinists, bodymen, and mechanics to get an idea of costs to either rebuild or maintain the car. Don't jump at the first car you see just because its what you always wanted. And if I were to buy it and it was not in my local area for viewing, then a flight is in order to personally inspect and crawl all over that car to ensue the pictures/dealer don't embellish the car's condition.

Just sayin'.
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-11-2015, 03:40 PM
 
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I agree, that's way over priced for a car with that many problems and the ugly ass two tone seats (that chrome trim on the back edge of the doors has to go to). I wouldn't pay more than $12,000 for that.
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-11-2015, 04:06 PM
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Dash/gauges need a complete restoration....has '67 seats, late rally rims, etc....Looks fairly solid, maybe a 15-20k car, though. Has a TH400 instead of the ST300 2 speed, which is a plus......but not original. For 26-27k, you can get a much more correct and nicer '66 GTO, IMO.
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-11-2015, 04:29 PM
 
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Looked through several dozen pics on their feed. Here are a fewof the telltales it's a bad amateur resto, or older puppymill junk.

-no pic of cowl tag. most likely resale red, horrid quality paint.
-what's the bodywork like under the paint?
-rallyII's on a '65 or 66 with cheap cheap tires... always a bad impression.
-the heavy spray bomb trunk spatter paint "restoration", not good, not good at all. Yes, there is something being hidden.
-as geeteeohguy noted, the dash bezel and idiot lights need total resto.
-non numbers drivetrain. A '66 automatic 389 hardtop or post with low options is only going to knock down so much coin, so carlot Tony shoots for the moon.

The only redeeming feature on this '66, is someone added a tripower.
verdict: 12K max, and for the unfortunate one that gets suckered into buying it, expect to spend a multiple of 12K to get it anywhere near the shape of a decent car.
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-11-2015, 07:46 PM
 
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Agreed, way too much for this car. The paint looks very thick and if it's starting to crack/glaze, it will need to be stripped before paint. Also, the flex plate cover is missing. If they leave something off that is obvious in pictures, what else was not finished? If you are looking in the $25-$30,000 there are a lot of nicer cars out there. This is a nice car if you could get them to knock about $10,000 off the price. At close to $30,000, you should be able to find a number matching car with the same needs as this one. Good luck with the hunt!
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-12-2015, 08:03 AM Thread Starter
 
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I'm glad I had it inspected before anything. The dealer misrepresented it completely, leaving out damn near all negative aspects of the car. Like a 4 inch gash in the front left fender and huge holes in the exhaust, separating tread on the tire, rust in the trunk. misaligned fenders, leaking rear seal/tranny, brake lights don't work, low beams don't work, separating interior on the door panels, cracked steering wheel, wavy body panels and the list goes on. If I wanted this car I would offer 8k MAX. and have to throw another 15k just to get close to a decent car. Thank you guys for all of the help!
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-12-2015, 03:57 PM
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Glad to be of help. Out in CA, where I am, 15k may cover the paint job itself, but nothing else. That car needs about 30k thrown at it from where I sit...at least.
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