'67 GTO assistance needed - Pontiac GTO Forum
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 01-03-2010, 09:18 AM Thread Starter
 
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'67 GTO assistance needed

Hello.
New to the forum and much thanks to all in advance. Am a 40yr and can comfortably say that the “mid-life crisis” is here with vengeance. Anyways, one thing I want to do before it’s too late (either die or wife spends remaining few $’s I have) is to get my hands on a ’67 gto. Don’t have the bucks for a numbers matching and/or show quality car and in the end would like a high quality driver. I have hung a few “wanted” adds out there but nothing so far. So here are a few general questions for those with ’67 knowledge .. answers to any are appreciated.
(1) what are the things that I should focus on when examining the body condition of a ’67 gto?
(2) which tend to be the most problem prone areas of a 67 gto?
(3) which are the most important questions to ask a prospective seller before I travel to see the car? Which questions would you need answered prior to examining the car?
(4) in your best estimate, what are the typical price ranges of non-numbers matching drivers that might need some light body panel and or floor/trunk work BUT are mechanically sound?
Thanks in advance for responses. Sorry for the generic nature of the questions.
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 01-03-2010, 01:19 PM
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The most expensive fix is rust repair. Look around the lower fenders, quarters, and floors and trunk. Check out the windshield and cowl area as well as the back window. Almost all of these cars rust in the front and rear window channels. Can be expensive to fix. Get PHS documents for any prospective car. You need to authenticate it as a real GTO. Parts are readily available to restore or repair these cars. As for price, who knows. Depends on the way the wind is blowing, where you are located, and what the economy dictates. Now is a great time to buy one. My advice is to buy the cleanest car you can afford. Money will be saved over performing major surgery on one, unless you are a competent welder, fabricator, and body man, as a few of out forum members are. Me, I'm mechanical: I prefer a clean car with a blown up drivetrain. I can fix that. The most expensive repairs these days are body and paint work. Good luck, and welcome to the forum.
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 01-03-2010, 08:31 PM
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Garage
If a seller tells you the car has a recent paint job with only a few small bubbles, run like heck...bubbles indicate bondo over rust and can hide a HUGE mess to repair correctly. The usual areas behind the rear tires, trunk and package tray can be checked for repairs from in the trunk.
Check the frame carefully. These cars have a high incidence of frame rot too.
If the car is not in your comfortable driving distance initially, have them email as many close up pics as they will and post them on here.
If you aren't familiar with how to identify a real GTO by the VIN, post that too or go to 1967 GTO Parking Lot - Ultimate Pontiac GTO Picture Site Click on the decoder and specification link and learn how to "read" a VIN and data tag. Lots of interesting info out on the web to arm yourself with in your search.
Bring any questions you have here and we'll help answer them.
Good luck, have fun....

Mitch
1967 GTO; Gulf Turquoise on Black, 4 speed, buckets SOLD
1967 Camaro ss/rs 350
1966 Chevelle SS 396
1966 Chevelle Malibu
1970 Chevelle SS 396
1962 Impala SS
1952 Chev 2 ton flat bed
1938 Chev coupe
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 01-05-2010, 09:55 PM
 
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Since rear window rot is always a problem, take a strong light and look upwards in the trunk, under the rear deck. Look at the inner structure between the trunk hinges for any serious rust. That is an area that no one makes a replacement for and the top side can be covered with a replacement outer skin, hiding the rot.
Also, insist on PHS (Pontiac Historical Services) papers to document the car. You may have to order it yourself, but it will help you find out if it is a true GTO, and what the car came with new.
I would expect lows in the high teens for a solid, decent driver.
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 01-06-2010, 04:36 AM
 
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Take a good long look at a '66 while you're at it. They're very similar but people usually have a preference for one or the other. I prefer the Catalina-style rear end on the '66. Also, if you just want a driver there's always the clone option. That's what I went for.
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 01-07-2010, 03:44 PM
 
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I was able to get a 67 for a steal of 15,000 Cash. Was not numbers matching, but has a 68 HO 400 with a four speed. Car an original 335 HP 3 spd. Great body, Georgia car, and interior. I am 46, mid life? Idon't know. Is it worht it? Hell yes. I get goosebumps and all that when I get to drive it. Go for it.
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 01-07-2010, 04:12 PM
 
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good job finding a nice car and enjoying it instead of spending the next ten years of your life and $30,000 (at least) waiting for one to be restored.
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  Pontiac GTO Forum > The 1964-1974 Pontiac Tempest, Lemans & GTO > 1964-1974 Tempest, Lemans & GTO General Discussion

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