67 gto rear lights stuck on - Pontiac GTO Forum
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-26-2014, 12:33 PM Thread Starter
 
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67 gto rear lights stuck on

Hi there, any idea why my rear lights (all 4 bulbs) on my 67 GTO would stay on after the engine is turned off? Main lights switch is off, front lights are not on. All 4 lights usually come on when brake pedal is selected, so could it be the pedal switch that has failed or stuck on? Disconnected the battery and reconnected and they're still on.

Also the solenoid on the starter seemed to stick also. Not sure if related or not?

Thanks guys



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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-26-2014, 04:16 PM
 
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Originally Posted by pcolenutt View Post
Hi there, any idea why my rear lights (all 4 bulbs) on my 67 GTO would stay on after the engine is turned off? Main lights switch is off, front lights are not on. All 4 lights usually come on when brake pedal is selected, so could it be the pedal switch that has failed or stuck on? Disconnected the battery and reconnected and they're still on.

Also the solenoid on the starter seemed to stick also. Not sure if related or not?

Thanks guys



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Sounds like your brake light switch at the brake pedal is either going bad OR out of adjustment. Simple test, just pull your fuse for your brake lights. If they go out, problem solved -get a new brake light switch as they do go bad over time. Easy enough to replace.

Solenoid sticking is a separate issue. Most likely your solenoid is telling you its going bad. The solenoid is very close to your exhaust manifold and over time the heat effects its performance. There is a heat shield that goes over it that helps and can be purchased from aftermarket Pontiac parts suppliers -which I recommend to get & install before putting your starter back in. So, I would simply replace the solenoid (or put a new starter/solenoid on or have the unit rebuilt if you think you might just want to take care of them both while you have the starter out). You can also inspect the solenoid wires to make sure you have no brakes or corrosion in the wires as this too can cause problems.

I might opt for having your starter rebuilt. If you get a different starter, sometimes you can have issues with starter/ring gear clash/whine as you crank it over and then you will have to shim the starter to correct this. No big deal as this is a "normal" fix right from Pontiac at the factory. You may already have shims on yours, if so, make sure you save them and re-install them.

If you replace the solenoid/starter and you still have problems, then you will have to look at other causes, ie ignition switch might be worn out -basically, this is normal stuff that can go bad on older Pontiacs.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-27-2014, 03:16 PM Thread Starter
 
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Many thanks for the detailed reply. I'll check the brake fuse - any idea where it's located on a 67 gto? Sorry for the stupid question, but I've never seen the fuse box!

The starter is just over a year old. I doubt it needs a rebuild therefore. It's done this before and seems to stick if the car is moving slowly before you crank the starter ie if you're rolling forwards rather than stationary. Not sure if it's supposed to do that eg to protect the starter, but I'll rock the car to free it, try start her up and check the fuse and the brake switch. Is the brake switch behind the pedal or elsewhere?

Thanks again.


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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-27-2014, 09:11 PM
 
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As I recall, fuse box should be off to the left of the brake pedal. Brake switch is secured to a bracket just in front of the brake pedal arm so it is activated as soon as you push the pedal. It is just a "pin" that pushes in and out of the switch. It will have a wire/plug on the end of it.

Not sure why your starter would jam like that. Rolling should not make any difference that I can think of. Sounds like your starter gear is jamming on the flywheel ring gear for some reason and it may be that the solenoid is kicking the starter gear out, but not retracting back? Still could be a solenoid problem or the starter may need to be shimmed as it is jamming because of incorrect meshing of the two gears.
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-28-2014, 01:23 AM Thread Starter
 
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Many thanks again.


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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-28-2014, 03:13 PM Thread Starter
 
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I took the brake fuse out and the lights were out when I connected the battery, so I guess that suggests the brake switch is faulty. Unless you can think of anything else it might be?
Thanks
Paul


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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-28-2014, 06:46 PM
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You can also leave the fuse in place and simply disconnect the brake light switch at the pedal. If the lights go off, it's the switch.
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-06-2014, 03:25 PM Thread Starter
 
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Seems like it's the mechanical pin not operating the switch correctly. The switch is working as lights go on/off when you open/close the contact, so there must be a fault in the spring loaded pin or the placement of it that's not opening the contact as the pedal is released. Ordered a new switch :-)


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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-07-2014, 12:07 PM
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Not uncommon for these switches to fail after 40 or 50 years of service.
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