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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-09-2013, 11:46 AM Thread Starter
 
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Advice/Thoughts please

she sits without motor now.......planning on saving up for a 461 build. In the mean time, I do want to go through the suspension, add posi to the rear, clean up the engine bay, do some work on the dash ect.. For the suspension I'm looking for some advice or thoughts. Since this is a clone I'm not worried so much about the original aspect. Im considering going with tubular upper and lower control arms, I would really like to do a coilover suspension but after seeing the prices on a coilover set up I wonder if its worth it. I wont be doing any road racing just wanting to have a solid street machine that I can throw into a corner without so much body roll that it feels like she might flip! So I'm thinking of tubular upper and lowers with poly bushings and new higher rate springs for a firmer ride, a beefy sway bar, new shocks. While doing that I plan to replace the steering components as well. Would this be a smart move or would I be wasting $$. Meaning should I just clean up whats already there, place new bushings in current control arms, new springs, balls joints and better sway bar? Would that get me what Im looking for without spending as much $$? Side note.....anyone have suggestions on vent window resoration. My vent windows are in pretty good shape, new seals in but they are not functional, attempt to open them and the seals dang nearnt come out. Then when they are open forget trying to close em without the help of a screw driver. Thanks guys,
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-09-2013, 06:40 PM
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I'd replace what is worn with polyurethane, new higher rate springs all around, good shocks all around, sway bars front and rear and boxed upper and lower rear control arms (you can do this yourself if you have a welder). Good tires and lighter weight wheels will make a huge difference. If you have anything left consider some braking upgrades.

That is the most economical way I can think of and will make a very noticeable difference in the handling without completely draining your wallet.

Very cool 65 by the way! I'd love to have that sitting in my garage.....basically a blank canvas for some bolt on fun!
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-11-2013, 05:49 PM Thread Starter
 
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Thanks ALKY.......after considering things, I thinks thats the way I'm gonna go. I would imagine doing that will make a considerable difference in the handling.

Thanks again.
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-11-2013, 07:43 PM
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As for wheels I would recommend these......http://www.jegs.com/images/photos/20...6-309-5761.jpg

American Racing 3097861 American Racing Torq-Thrust TTO Series 309 Wheels - Free Shipping on All Orders @ JEGS

Timeless looks and in 17" will clear some monster brakes. It would be hard to find a wheel that wouldn't look good on a red 65 GTO though .
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-12-2013, 03:52 PM
 
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Quick ratio steering box makes a world of difference. Also I'm sot sure about the '65, but I was able to replace my '70 tie rods/sleeves with '71 parts, which are much beefier, stronger, and reliable. They are almost 1/3 thicker than the 70's tie rods. However you'll have to check on compatibility with '65.

If you want a really nice handling ride consider a full aftermarket suspension package from Hotchkis or Detroit Speed.

You're in the position that everyone wishes they could be in.... NO BODY WORK!!!!! All that time and money that would have went into paint can go where it really counts now! Might as well go all out while you've got the blank canvas sitting in your garage, otherwise if you bolt on a mid-level upgrade now you'll be kicking yourself later.

"You Gotta Have Fun When You're Little!!"
-Dick Schindler

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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-13-2013, 09:31 AM
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I have mostly Spohn Engineering pieces on my car, and I love the stuff.

One thing I'd strongly recommend regardless of which pieces you use: On the rear control arms, make sure you get some that have joints that are fully articulating - some sort of spherical rod ends - such that the control arm itself is able to twist with very little resistance in addition to being able to move up and down. Using rigid arms with poly bushings (or just using poly bushings in the factory style arms) is a big mistake. Think about it. When the car is cornering and the body is trying to "lean", those control arms have to be able to twist or else something is going to bind and maybe break. The factory rubber bushings have enough give to allow the arms to twist - sort of - in most situations. Using the control arms to try to resist body roll is a bad idea - you just can't make them big enough or strong enough to do that job - that's what the springs, sway bar, and shocks are for. What you really want is for the control arms to "allow" all that motion so that the cornering loads in fact DO get managed by all the other components. The control arms have only three jobs they need to do well: control the position of the rear axle side to side, forwards and backwards, and control/prevent it from twisting forwards or backwards in the same directions that the wheels are turning.

On the rear of my 69 I'm running Spohn adjustable upper and lower control arms (with their del-sphere bushings), Spohn "Pro Touring" rear sway bar, Strange double adjustable shocks, factory springs, UMC control arm braces (because Spohn wasn't making any when I bought all my stuff), and AirLift drag bags.

On the front I've got Strange single adjustable shocks, poly bushings everywhere, factory springs, and a fat Spohn sway bar. I like the way my car feels and drives. It's not mushy at all.

Oh, and I sent my original power steering unit off to the folks and powersteering.com and had them rebuild it into a quick-ratio unit, so it looks original (because it is) but the steering response is now "quite crisp"

Bear

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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-13-2013, 09:55 AM
 
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Bear, I looked at that option for the power steering box but it was out of my price range and originality isn't as important to me... my car was bastardized long before I got to it so why fret over originality now?? Instead I ordered a box for an 85-86 Monte Carlo SS. 2-3/4 turns lock-to-lock, bolts right in, and only $150. My mentors told me it's one of the biggest and cheapest improvements you can make on these old Detroit Iron beasts.

"You Gotta Have Fun When You're Little!!"
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-13-2013, 11:40 AM
 
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Originally Posted by BearGFR View Post
I have mostly Spohn Engineering pieces on my car, and I love the stuff.

Oh, and I sent my original power steering unit off to the folks and powersteering.com and had them rebuild it into a quick-ratio unit, so it looks original (because it is) but the steering response is now "quite crisp"

Bear
I am interested in knowing more about this idea of rebuilding my steering box. I grant, I am not specifically concerned with "all original" or originality", but it would be a bonus if I could improve performance while looking original.

To add to Original Poster's question....so if one is not racing the vehicle, tubular upper/lower for front with coil over shocks are not necessary? Stock suspension with upgraded bushings, shocks, and sway bars will greatly improve performance?
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-14-2013, 05:24 PM
 
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new stock suspension components will make the car handle like new, in 1965. shocks and springs and bushings wear out and new items will "greatly improve performance" over the wore out items. To improve the actual driving performance upgrades are necessary. Quick ratio steering upgrade makes a world of difference. You would not notice the Monte Carlo steering box at all. Tubular upper/lower and coil overs are certainly NOT necessary but neither is driving a muscle car. They will also produce a world of difference in the handling department. I do not race my car but I do drive it with confidence which comes from the full suspension upgrades I have done.
I believe money spent on improving the handling performance is a great investment.
Your car looks to be in Really great shape and taking the extra time with quality components will make it that much better.
The vent window seals are a large pain to install correctly and some fit better than others. Are you sure they are seated correctly? being off a little bit anywhere will make them impossible to close.

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