Bypassing the heater core - Pontiac GTO Forum
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-03-2019, 10:00 PM Thread Starter
 
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Bypassing the heater core

I have a factory AC car and I want to stop the hot water from flowing through the heater in the summer. I installed a 3/4" shut-off valve in the hose leading from the heater core to the water pump. I understand that this hose is the return, but the valve does stop the hot water flow.

I've read where a couple of guys stated that they installed a water bypass valve for the heater. Could someone please provide some details on how this was done. There doesn't seem to be much room behind the engine to install 3/4" valves for blocking & bypassing the water flow from the engine to the heater.
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-03-2019, 11:27 PM
 
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whats your car ?


coolant flow direction - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

is your valve on the correct side of flow ??
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-04-2019, 06:39 AM
 
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Garage
Most common bypass seen under-hoods of modded cars and/or cars with heater core issues is to totally take it out of the loop.
No hose(s) connected to core nipples this is a short term way to deal with issues and subjects the core to further issues without fluid running through it.

Look for a late model vacuum or electric actuated Bypass valve assembly. These are set up to truly Bypass the core while keeping it in the loop if needed.
They will have duel inlet and outlets with the switch that opens and closes the lines/hoses, something like shown below.
They are compact enough to be tucked/hidden if desired.
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-04-2019, 07:12 AM Thread Starter
 
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My car is a '66 GTO. Technically the shutoff valve should be on the input side of the heater core, not on the return, to keep hot water from entering the heater core.
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-04-2019, 09:30 AM
 
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Originally Posted by histoy View Post
My car is a '66 GTO. Technically the shutoff valve should be on the input side of the heater core, not on the return, to keep hot water from entering the heater core.

Use a 3-port diverter valve and matching hose nipples: https://www.amazon.com/L-Port-Forged.../dp/B0741417WN
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-04-2019, 12:49 PM Thread Starter
 
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Yes, that would do it PontiacJim, but it would take 1 in each hose to make it work, and the return would have to be 3/4". Thanks for the suggestion. And thanks to GTOJunior for your suggestion.
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-04-2019, 06:18 PM
 
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Originally Posted by histoy View Post
Yes, that would do it PontiacJim, but it would take 1 in each hose to make it work, and the return would have to be 3/4". Thanks for the suggestion. And thanks to GTOJunior for your suggestion.
Yep, it would and that's why that valve has threaded ends to insert whatever pipe fitting/adapter needed to match your hose requirements. Pretty simple stuff if you have a plumbing store or Home Depot or Lowe's near by.
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-05-2019, 04:34 PM
 
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here are some photos of mine, just put a shut off valve in main line and one in bypass as well. this is summer running, in the fall I reverse the valves. close one and open one. it lays pretty flat, has worked great for years,...just outside air blows thru all the vents when heater core cut off. but you must put your heater lever all the way to the right, that is what allows the air to blow thru the heater core.

works great
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-05-2019, 09:06 PM Thread Starter
 
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Thank you Lemans guy. I appreciate the pictures.
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-06-2019, 08:35 PM
 
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On my 65, I just been able to connect the hose that normally goes to the heater core (input side) directly to the passenger side cylinder head connection.
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