: You support the theory that POINTS type distributors are superior over aftermarket HEI types.
: "He said,“YOU ARE ABSOLUTELY RIGHT! With all the restorations that they do in this shop all of the parts especially these HEI DISTRIBUTORS are junk absolute junk and even when we go to original mechanical fuel pumps and distributors we can’t trust them. Its try several until they work.” "
: Not how I want to "find" a good distributor by trial and error and keep sending them back at cost to me. A good mechanic should have the tools/equipment to diagnose/test any distributor to see if it is good or bad and trial and error is not a "tool." In the "old days", they had this thing called a "scope" that the engine was hooked up to and it would diagnose all your ignition problems with the car running - I used to have one. It had an OSCILLOSCOPE
- "An oscilloscope, informally known as a scope, is a type of electronic test instrument that allows observation of constantly varying signal voltages, usually as a two-dimensional plot of one or more signals as a function of time. Oscilloscopes are used to observe the change of an electrical signal over time, such that voltage and time describe a shape which is continuously graphed against a calibrated scale. The observed waveform can be analyzed for such properties as amplitude, frequency, rise time, time interval, distortion and others.
It is sad
that this "old technology" that worked and saved a lot of guess work has become today's unskilled
thinking of "try several until they work” mentality that costs you, the auto enthusiast, high dollars and frustration for something that is quickly diagnosed. They even had a machine to set your distributor's points dwell, and advance curve - especially for us guys who used dual point distributors with mechanical advance only on our high performance builds.
Here is my personal opinion only because I have used the PerTronix products with success as have many other people. Here is their website if you want to read more about the features of each Ignitor product listed below:
Option 1 - If you wanted an electronic distributor, I would be ditching the Chinese made HEI, install the factory type points distributor and then install a PerTronix electronic conversion kit. Use their Flame-Thrower coil. I used this on my 400CI and had no problems. Keeps the factory look as well. I get that the factory HEI may be hard to source locally and then you would most likely have to send it out for rebuild if you could not do this yourself, but the factory stuff worked without problems or guessing. If any problems, it was generally the module that went bad and it was cheap to buy and easy to replace. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/p...w/make/pontiac
Option 2 - Get the PerTronix Plug & Play Electronic Distributors with the Ignitor II Module if you want to run an MSD unit or the Ignitor III if you don't. I got the Ignitor II for my engine build, but have not tried it out. You can paint the base black if you don't like the polished aluminum. Again, keeps the factory look. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/p...w/make/pontiac
Option 3 - PerTronix HEI Distributor if you gotta have HEI: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/p...w/make/pontiac
: On the fuel system - sounds like you have that one worked out.
: "*I bought a brand new gas tank from Auto City Classics in Minnesota after I discovered that somebody had thrown metal shavings in the old one."
: The "sock" found on the end of the sending unit pick-up tube that acts as a filter should have prevented any metal shavings/chips from entering your fuel system.
: "4.*Then I ordered a new sender that had the 3/8” outlet pipe but also had a vent tube which was really supposed to be a return line from the mechanical fuel pump up front if you had it and they told me at Auto City Classics that a lot guys that have had problems with gas glow and venting these tanks would attach a long enough hose and hang it way up under the trunk shelf so gas wouldn’t syphon out and when the tank got low enough that that would also help in relieving that vacuum build up that I was getting."
: The tank having no vent on the filler neck used a vented fuel cap. The problem with this was that when you floor the car, the hard acceleration threw the gas back and pushed some of it out the vented cap - you will see the gas or smell it, especially if you top off your tank.
I take it you did not use the 1/4" metal line on the fuel sending unit as a return line from the fuel pump or the 3-outlet fuel filter? The 1/4" return line helped vapor lock situations and was used on AC cars - which has been covered on the forums. That said, a vent line could certainly be made of the 1/4" fuel return line on the sending unit.
The later '68 and up tanks used the filler neck vent AND a vent found on the rear top/front of the tank by the rear axle. The attached pic will show you how this worked. This is what you can do with the 1/4" fuel return line and convert it to use as a vent line. You want to make sure the line is placed higher than the tank of course, and then vents downward. Personally, I think I would use a larger piece of 5/16" steel tubing, shape it to fit, and use a small length of rubber hose to join the 1/4" fitting at the sending unit to the 5/16" line. The top right diagram shows the hose terminating straight up with a restricter (actually a small filter) on the end. Form your steel line to go high up like near where the restricter is, then make a U-bend to point the open end of the steel line towards the ground. Then cap it off with a fuel filter which will act as a spark arrestor and keep road debris/water out.
The pic in the lower right/left is similar to the 65-67 vent tube coming off the filler neck and up into the trunk. You cannot use this if your filler neck does not have the small vent tube nipple.
: "Couldn’t start it. I had to let it sit and cool down for 25 minutes until the temperature got down to 170-degrees and it started right up."
: As pjw1967
stated, what did you mean? Your water temps are fine, so not really a problem although "heat" can be a problem that can cause electrical, ignition, and fuel start problems.
Hard starting can be a carb problem (flooding - put the pedal flat to the floor next time as this not only will clear excess gas, but allow cooler air in that can help), gas percolation/vapor lock (a phenolic insulator under the carb may help here), your ignition timing can be out of adjustment and may need to be adjusted, timing chain is sloppy/loose which in turn changes ignition timing, "heat soak" as pjw1967 suggested, starter/starter solenoid going bad/weak, corrosion inside the small purple wire found on the starter solenoid that activates your starter(very common problem), corrosion inside battery cables, poor grounding of the engine/body.
Cannot recall if you mentioned in your earlier posts of you have direct 12 volts going to the HEI and you eliminated the factory resistor wire for the original points distributor. You need 12V at the HEI when the car is both started and running.
So a few more things to check with regards to no/hard starting, but we need more info on what you mean by "could not start."