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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-21-2008, 07:59 PM Thread Starter
 
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Couple of questions.

So I got to go start my car this past weekend. It was great to hear it run again. I have'nt had it for the past 5 years so it was pretty cool. what sucked was my headers burned my starter wires and ended up turning that over while it was running. I got it shut down pretty fast, definitely not a good sound, so now i need to re-wire my starter and get some heat insulator for that.

I put in a new Optima Red Top, pumped out the old gas ((thank you optima)) and I switched out the igition switch, door locks, dash lock, and trunk locks. One of the reasons I was excited to switch out the ignition was because it has had push button start since I was atleast 5.. I am imagining because my dad didnt want to swap out the ignition switch. Anyway I got it in and the motor still wont crank, lights and everything come on but motor doesnt turn..

Did the 67's come with Neutral safety switches? Could that possible be my problem? Thanks in advance guys..
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-21-2008, 08:17 PM
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My '67 has the same problem. I bypassed the neutral safety switch ( under the console) and it didn't help. The problem is 40 year old wiring: High resistance in the wire that goes from the ign switch to the solenoid. Be sure to use new wire of the proper guage, and insulate it well. Also, I recommend a heat shield for the starter and solenoid. '67's are notorious for heat soak starting problems.
Jeff
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-21-2008, 08:18 PM
 
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it is possible you fried your starter. go underneath and see if you can get it to crank with a screwdriver. and i dont think it would have a neutral safety switch but it could have a clutch depression safety switch, i know my 69 does. neutral switches are kinda complicated and pretty modern. the clutch switch is under the dash.
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-21-2008, 11:05 PM Thread Starter
 
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I do know the starter is still turning over.. when I hook up the battery it spins the bare wires melted together when they got to hot melted and shorted it so I know the starter is ok.. but I will have to re-wire everything. As far as the 40 year old wiring goes, I am going to re-wire it all eventually but not quite yet unfortunately. I was also considering getting a heat shield for starter and solenoid. At this point it is a requirement I guess..

I noticed there are some engine harnesses on ebay are those any good?

Last edited by ThomasGTO; 10-21-2008 at 11:07 PM.
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-22-2008, 07:48 AM
 
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If the harness's on Ebay are used, I would avoid them. When I re-wired my '67 two years ago, I replaced everything with new from Year One for around $900.


67 Post Coupe,
69 RA III Judge
06 BOM, M6, 18's
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-22-2008, 07:58 AM
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It should be easy enough to get it working right with the key.
After installing the new key switch and repairing the burnt wires at the starter, then repair or by-pass the neutral safety/clutch switch and you should be good. If it still doesn't work and the car has push button switch now(depending on how push button's wired might be why your key doesn't start the car), you should be able to tie right into the ignition switch on the 'start' wire and by-pass all the cars wiring after the ignition switch going directly to the wire on the push button switch going to the starter. It should then start with the key.
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-22-2008, 07:17 PM Thread Starter
 
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Thanks guys.. I think it is on the right track when I was starting it i noticed that when i let off the push button while i had the ignition in the start position the motor kept cranking but then i tried it again and it didnt work. I think I have had it do that before a handfull of times in the past.

Another question.. The motor I have in it came out of a 69 Pontiac grand prix which is sitting in our pasture. Is it worth salvaging the disk brakes from that car?? I know they got the full kits available and I am not sure whether or not I should try to do that and save some cash or maybe they wont work at all?
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-23-2008, 06:52 AM
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The rotors and callipers might be bad on that car, but the spindles will work just fine for converting it to disk brakes!
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-23-2008, 12:31 PM
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Follow Rukee's advice on all of the above, both ignition and brakes. The Brakes are JUST what you want for your car, and best yet, they are GM parts made in the USA, and they are FREE. The advise on the Year One harness is a prudent one. You get what you pay for, and as Rukee once said: "Cry once when you buy it, or cry every time you use it!" Have fun.......
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-23-2008, 10:23 PM Thread Starter
 
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:That advice sounds pretty accurate to me. I am really shooting towards doing all of this right the first time. When I was 15 and started working on it I never had very much money to be able to do everything I wanted too so this time that is all very important to me. I am just glad I am getting another chance to fix up my first car the right way instead of improvising and using whatever I could get.
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