Desired Look/Require Suspension Changes? - Pontiac GTO Forum
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-24-2015, 08:48 PM Thread Starter
 
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Desired Look/Require Suspension Changes?

So my wife and I have decided on a constant look of the car stance. We like when the full wheel is present in the rear wheel well..I have some pictures of what we would like to achieve but are not sure if there will need to be changes in coils or suspension in order to achieve it. Any advice is greatly appreciated

Here are a few pictures of what we would like to achieve...I like 17" rims but the wife thinks they are a bit big and we may stick with 16" which means the tire size will have to be bigger to compensate for the space correct??? Anyway I'm sure someone knows what I'm talking about

The maroon pic is our fave...So any extra feedback on that particular cars Rims/Stance/Wheel size would be awesome! Thanks everyone
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-26-2015, 11:34 AM
 
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OK, throwing my opinion your way. This question has been asked before and you may find a thread that will answer your question. As I recall, most suggested the rear coils from a station wagon will add lift. Not sure exactly how much, but this would be a good start to get your baseline going.

Next, you can get spacers that will fit under the coils. They come in different heights and materials, so you can taylor your lift exactly in the rear. Keep in mind that you will probably need shock extensions if you go over 2" of lift. I don't know if it is possible just to get a longer shock if you could find one to fit your car.

For the front, I would go spacers under the coils. Again, very easy to get and several manufacturers. I would get the aluminum as opposed to rubber or some other softer material. Adding spacers will limit your suspension travel a like amount, but should not be a problem unless you go really big. They make ball joint spacers for those who want to raise their car high enough to get a nose bleed, aka the "gasser" look. You may put your front sway bar end links in a bind, so check this and add longer bolts/bolt sleeves/spacers to compliment.

Some guys install the Moog #5450 1970 Chevelle HD springs. It is said to raise the frontend 1.5" if you don't have AC. If you have AC, it seems the height change may be minimal. You are also changing the spring rate, so the suspension will be firmer and give a slightly harsher ride.

Raising the rear axle will change your suspension geometry and make wheel hop worse than what you already will experience IF you like to smoke tires. If you are not a tire patch squealer (like me ) then not as much a problem for you. But, raising the angle of the upper control arms is what will aggravate this and you might consider getting 2 addition items.

First, adjustable upper control arms to make sure your rear axle pinion angle is where it is supposed to be. How to adjust the rear pinion angle can be found by doing a web search and this will give you an idea of what I am talking about. The second item is what are called "no-hop" bars. These bolt up to your rear end at the point where your upper control arms would bolt on to the front of rear axle. These raise the height of the control arms to restore some of that lost geometry and improve the wheel hop problem.

You can search around for both the adjustable upper control arms and no-hop bars. I purchased the Spohn upper adjustable control arms, but UMI, Dick Miller, and others sell them, just don't get anything with the solid type heim joint as these are really for drag race use, not street. And make sure the adjustable upper control arms are compatible with whatever no-hop bars you might select - some are made to bolt up to the factory type control arm ends ends while others are for the open heim-type joints. No-hop bars, same thing, shop around to see what will work for you.

Here is another option for the rear. http://store.dickmillerracing.com/re...djustable.aspx Ditch your factory coils/shocks and go a little more contemporary. This coil over kit is one example. Says ti will raise the rear up or down 2", but it is not inexpensive and I would weld-in the additional support brackets located at the top where the factory shock bolts on.

Here is a 4-wheel drive article which gives you a little insight into lifting a vehicle -same principals apply. Coil Spacers Vs. New Springs - The Need-To-Knows Before You Lift
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-26-2015, 05:45 PM Thread Starter
 
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Thank you! That helps a lot...I didnt think that the look could be acheived by changing tire size alone without rubbing issues. Thanks
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-27-2015, 08:19 AM
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Some great information and responses re this question on this thread:
https://www.gtoforum.com/f12/adjustin...-height-64097/
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-28-2015, 07:20 AM
 
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I sort of went through a similar situation on my 66 as I have wider tires and would have rub as well without the correct setup. I started with stock springs and shocks with spacers in coils to achieve this in the beginning. But I ended up swapping it all out for Spohn QA1 coilovers on both the front and rear. I wanted improved ride and handling as well as ride height adjustability and these give you both without have to cut or weld anything. A completely bolt on application and the ride quality is excellent. You can adjust so that it rides as smoothly or firmly as you like and raise or lower the front and rear end to wherever you like. You will experience wheel hop from the rear end, or probably anyway, from having the rear that high up. But you can solve that issue with adjustable upper control arms on the rear that'll allow you to maintain the correct pinion angle. Anyway, having done both stock with spacers and the adjustable coilovers, the QA1s win hands down. She drives like a brand new car now with none of the roll and float you get with the stock setup. My two cents anyway...good luck.
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-28-2015, 12:00 PM
 
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Found this on the Global West website with regards to front coil spacers and lift:

"Selecting a coil spring spacer for the front end has a simple formula you must remember, one-inch at the spring equals two-inches at the body. This applies to all Ford and GM models we deal with. Example 1: Lets say you want to raise your 1969 Camaro one-inch in the front. You would purchase two 1/2-inch spacers; one for each side. They install between the lower arm and spring. Your ride height will go up one full inch. Example 2: Lets say you want to raise the front of your GTO 1-1/2 inches because you cut to much off the spring. Using the formula one at the spring is two at the body, a 3/4-inch spacer is required to lift the front end up 1-1/2 inches."
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-30-2015, 10:12 PM Thread Starter
 
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Awesome! Thanks for the extra info! I am getting my ride this weekend and am excited to get things started! I appreciate all of the responses. I will take progress pics as I go to keep everyone in the loop!

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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-30-2015, 10:51 PM Thread Starter
 
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@ JBrenner

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Originally Posted by jbrenner View Post
I sort of went through a similar situation on my 66 as I have wider tires and would have rub as well without the correct setup. I started with stock springs and shocks with spacers in coils to achieve this in the beginning. But I ended up swapping it all out for Spohn QA1 coilovers on both the front and rear. I wanted improved ride and handling as well as ride height adjustability and these give you both without have to cut or weld anything. A completely bolt on application and the ride quality is excellent. You can adjust so that it rides as smoothly or firmly as you like and raise or lower the front and rear end to wherever you like. You will experience wheel hop from the rear end, or probably anyway, from having the rear that high up. But you can solve that issue with adjustable upper control arms on the rear that'll allow you to maintain the correct pinion angle. Anyway, having done both stock with spacers and the adjustable coilovers, the QA1s win hands down. She drives like a brand new car now with none of the roll and float you get with the stock setup. My two cents anyway...good luck.

Any recommendations on brand of control arms?
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-02-2015, 07:35 AM
 
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I upgraded to tubular control arms on my 66. Sorry, not sure what brand they are. But I know you can get them in eBay for about $300. So they're not the brand names that'll run you $6-$700. They're very heavy duty and sturdy. No problems or fitment issues at all.


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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-06-2015, 08:24 PM
 
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also have a QA1 set up with full Global West control arms all around, edelbrock pinion adjusters,CCP 2" drop spindles,1" drop rear springs. I am able to dial my ride height exactly how I want (within the parameters of the drop) and the difference in handling is 100%, no roll, no boat steer just turn the wheel and thats where she goes

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