OK, throwing my opinion your way. This question has been asked before and you may find a thread that will answer your question. As I recall, most suggested the rear coils from a station wagon will add lift. Not sure exactly how much, but this would be a good start to get your baseline going.
Next, you can get spacers that will fit under the coils. They come in different heights and materials, so you can taylor your lift exactly in the rear. Keep in mind that you will probably need shock extensions if you go over 2" of lift. I don't know if it is possible just to get a longer shock if you could find one to fit your car.
For the front, I would go spacers under the coils. Again, very easy to get and several manufacturers. I would get the aluminum as opposed to rubber or some other softer material. Adding spacers will limit your suspension travel a like amount, but should not be a problem unless you go really big. They make ball joint spacers for those who want to raise their car high enough to get a nose bleed, aka the "gasser" look. You may put your front sway bar end links in a bind, so check this and add longer bolts/bolt sleeves/spacers to compliment.
Some guys install the Moog #5450 1970 Chevelle HD springs. It is said to raise the frontend 1.5" if you don't have AC. If you have AC, it seems the height change may be minimal. You are also changing the spring rate, so the suspension will be firmer and give a slightly harsher ride.
Raising the rear axle will change your suspension geometry and make wheel hop worse than what you already will experience IF you like to smoke tires. If you are not a tire patch squealer (like me
) then not as much a problem for you. But, raising the angle of the upper control arms is what will aggravate this and you might consider getting 2 addition items.
First, adjustable upper control arms to make sure your rear axle pinion angle is where it is supposed to be. How to adjust the rear pinion angle can be found by doing a web search and this will give you an idea of what I am talking about. The second item is what are called "no-hop" bars. These bolt up to your rear end at the point where your upper control arms would bolt on to the front of rear axle. These raise the height of the control arms to restore some of that lost geometry and improve the wheel hop problem.
You can search around for both the adjustable upper control arms and no-hop bars. I purchased the Spohn upper adjustable control arms, but UMI, Dick Miller, and others sell them, just don't get anything with the solid type heim joint as these are really for drag race use, not street. And make sure the adjustable upper control arms are compatible with whatever no-hop bars you might select - some are made to bolt up to the factory type control arm ends ends while others are for the open heim-type joints. No-hop bars, same thing, shop around to see what will work for you.
Here is another option for the rear. http://store.dickmillerracing.com/re...djustable.aspx
Ditch your factory coils/shocks and go a little more contemporary. This coil over kit is one example. Says ti will raise the rear up or down 2", but it is not inexpensive and I would weld-in the additional support brackets located at the top where the factory shock bolts on.
Here is a 4-wheel drive article which gives you a little insight into lifting a vehicle -same principals apply. Coil Spacers Vs. New Springs - The Need-To-Knows Before You Lift