Dipstick is hitting my crank - Pontiac GTO Forum
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 07-27-2015, 11:33 PM Thread Starter
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Dipstick is hitting my crank

GTO Forum Members,

I have to tap this resource again please. I have a '64 GTO and the dipstick is hitting the crank (rapid ticking noise). I can even see where the stick itself is buggered up on the end. The noise is intermittent and it does not always rub.

I can tell the dipstick is not OEM, rather a cheap one that has "Made in China" stamped on it. Many of you have probably seen one. It has a large red rubber coated handle with a small felt washer, and adjustable cap.

If the lower tube is there, can a cheap universal dipstick be the culprit or does it definitely mean the lower dipstick tube is missing or fell off?

I fear that the lower dipstick tube is either missing or fell off and I have to pull the motor/pan. I hope you guys have some good news that it is only the cheap dipstick.

If the cheapo dipstick is the cause, where can I find a quality replacement for a '64 389? Google searches come up empty handed.

Thank you kindly,

Greg
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 07-27-2015, 11:41 PM
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Drain the oil and fish around in the hole with a magnet and see if you can find the tube and if it is in the bottom of the pan fish it out.
Fill the engine then mark the stick where the full line is and keep this one in the trunk and get another one cut it down to make a shortie for driving.
Ames should have the proper dip stick for your engine.
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 07-28-2015, 03:20 PM
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Good advice from Goat Roper as a way to get you going without having to pull the motor. Keep a dipstick for driving that's cut short enough to miss the crank and a "good" one for actually checking the oil. Do you know the history of the engine? Who built it, etc?

Another idea, if you like to spend money on toys, is to get yourself one of these:

Extech Video Borescope, 2.4 In, 39 In Shaft BR70 | Zoro.com

...drain all the oil, and do a visual inspection. I've been sort of wanting one of these myself

Bear

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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 07-28-2015, 03:33 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you for the suggestions guys. I will definitely do that until I can do a proper fix.

Based on all of the restoration receipts, I can tell who did the motor and what parts were put into it, but I don't know the small details about it.

I did find a receipt that showed "upper and lower dipstick tube", only to find out there is a 3rd lower tube after speaking with Ames today.

I plan on converting the car to a 4spd this winter. Do you think once the transmission is off of the car, it would be possible to install the pan tube without pulling the motor? Or are there parts of the motor that have to be removed after the pan is taken off for the install?

Just to be clear, "The only way the dipstick hits the crank is if the lower tube is not there right?"

That scope is a pretty cool gadget too!

Thanks again!
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 07-28-2015, 03:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by G20 View Post
Thank you for the suggestions guys. I will definitely do that until I can do a proper fix.

Based on all of the restoration receipts, I can tell who did the motor and what parts were put into it, but I don't know the small details about it.

I did find a receipt that showed "upper and lower dipstick tube", only to find out there is a 3rd lower tube after speaking with Ames today.

I plan on converting the car to a 4spd this winter. Do you think once the transmission is off of the car, it would be possible to install the pan tube without pulling the motor? Or are there parts of the motor that have to be removed after the pan is taken off for the install?

Just to be clear, "The only way the dipstick hits the crank is if the lower tube is not there right?"

That scope is a pretty cool gadget too!

Thanks again!
It is possible but it is a pickle dance and by the time you pull everything just to lift it you might as well just pull the engine so you can work on it on the stand.
Yes, the tube is there to keep the stick from hitting the crank.
Get a service manual for the car, it gives torque specs etc. and a quick read through the section you are working on can save you a lot of headaches and shows pieces that may be missing left off by previous mechanics.
If the pan doesn't have the two oil pan reinforcement brackets (chances are it won't) order them from Ames page 226 in their catalog.
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 07-28-2015, 05:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by G20 View Post
Just to be clear, "The only way the dipstick hits the crank is if the lower tube is not there right?"
Well, I've learned to not use words like "never", "always", and "only" when it comes to dealing with these cars.

But, I'd say that it's pretty likely the case. There are two styles of lower tube. One is used with the factory windage tray and is held in place by the tray. One end of the tube inserts into the end of the "middle" dipstick tube (the one that's pressed through the block pan rail) and the other end sticks through the tray. There's a 'fat' part of the tube that prevents it from falling through the hole in the tray. The other style is for engines with no factory windage tray. There's a tab on it that attaches to bolts/studs on the center main cap. This is the one that I'm actually using on my '69, even though it was a factory windage tray engine. Because I lengthened the stroke, the factory tray was no longer an option (the crank hit it) so I had to go with an aftermarket tray and also switch to the 'no windage tray' lower tube. Here are some photos of what my setup looks like:




And also what the factory windage tray setup looks like:




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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 08-05-2015, 10:52 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you all for taking the time to post this information for me. It was very helpful.

-Greg
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