Hot starting problems - Pontiac GTO Forum
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post #1 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-19-2010, 12:48 PM Thread Starter
 
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Hot starting problems

Hey guys,
My 68 GTO will start just fine when it is cold. After it runs for 15 or 20 minutes, it will not start back. It will just make a growling sound, and not even attempt to turn the motor over. I installed a new battery and starter (thought it might be the solenoid). Started just fine cold, then once it got warmed up it wouldn't start. I also installed a new voltage regulator and 2 new ground straps and still will not hot start. Any ideas, I'm lost!
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post #2 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-19-2010, 02:38 PM
 
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Originally Posted by simmons68 View Post
Hey guys,
My 68 GTO will start just fine when it is cold. After it runs for 15 or 20 minutes, it will not start back. It will just make a growling sound, and not even attempt to turn the motor over. I installed a new battery and starter (thought it might be the solenoid). Started just fine cold, then once it got warmed up it wouldn't start. I also installed a new voltage regulator and 2 new ground straps and still will not hot start. Any ideas, I'm lost!
define growling sound.
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post #3 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-19-2010, 02:57 PM
 
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Do you have a heat shield on your starter?

If not you might want to purchase one from Ames or Performance Years, pontiac starters are notorious for overheating without the shield.

Rick

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post #4 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-19-2010, 03:00 PM
 
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$13.00 through PY

Item: RPE670
Description: SOLENOID HEAT SHIELD
THIS CAN NOT BE USED WITH THE DELCO STARTERS WITH THE SHORT SOLENOID!!! YOU HAVE TO USE THE ORIGINAL STARTER !!! A SOLUTION IS FOR CUSTOMERS TO USE RFE117.

RPE670B recommended for hot starting problems with ORIGINAL solenoids. This shield was originally correct for RA/HO ONLY


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post #5 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-19-2010, 08:31 PM
 
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I was having the same problem with my '68. '68 GTO's never had a heat shield. My problem was the reman starters I was getting from Napa were not done very good. Find a guy in your area that rebuilds starter motors and selenoids. There is a heavier duty spring that this guy used in my selenoid. He also uses a rebuild kits for the selenoid and the starter that are made in the U. S. Also replace your positve battery cable with a new one. Load test your battery. Did you shim your starter motor?
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post #6 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-20-2010, 11:18 AM
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There are numerous Hot Start posts on this forum. Usually the cultprit is high resistance in the circuit from the ign switch to the solinoid (purple wire). Check out the previous posts.
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post #7 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-20-2010, 11:21 AM
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The infamous hot start problem, almost always caused by the starter getting "heat soaked" from the exhaust. Are you running headers?

There are several solutions depending on how much effort you want to go to and how much you want to spend. Buy (or make your own) heat shield using metal or that reflective/flexible 'heat wrap' material. Another option is an after-market "mini starter", like one of these for example. This one (and others) can be "clocked" - rotated to place the solenoid at the bottom and well away from the heat source, like I did with mine.

Bear
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post #8 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-22-2010, 01:53 PM Thread Starter
 
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Thanks guys. I do have full length headers and I will check the other possible solutions you guys gave. I appreciate your help.
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post #9 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-22-2010, 04:03 PM
 
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Have the headers Jet Hot Coated if they didn't come that way.
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post #10 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-23-2010, 11:46 AM Thread Starter
 
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Hot starting

Took my battery out and charged it, took it back and the car started up, then when I checked my battery it showed no charge. I drove the car for an hour and killed it. It did start back, but just barely. It made a clicking sound then started slowly. I will check my alternator now, but what voltage should my alternator read??? I think around 13 or 14, is that correct? Thanks for the input.
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