How costly and difficult will it be to fix this rust? - Pontiac GTO Forum
User Tag List

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-08-2015, 07:33 PM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 4
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
How costly and difficult will it be to fix this rust?

Hey guys, I'm new to the forum and I need some help coming up with a decision here.

I've always wanted a 69 GTO, and one finally came up for sale in my area yesterday, but it has bad rust issues. It's a complete car but according to the seller, it has "significant rust in the floor/rocker panels to the trunk and in the quarter panels".

I don't have any experience at all working with rust, so I'd have to have someone else do it. I've been told that it will be "extremely expensive" to have this all fixed. What I'm wondering is how much are we talking here?

I would be completely willing to put in the time and effort needed to get this car back on the road, but it'll mainly come down to exactly how expensive this will actually be.

I don't have any pics yet. I'm currently waiting for the seller to send me some more detailed pics and once I get them I'll post them here.

EDIT: Forgot to mention that the seller is asking $4000 OBO for the car.

Last edited by Deveaux; 07-08-2015 at 09:05 PM.
Deveaux is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-08-2015, 07:39 PM
Former Moderator
 
ALKYGTO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Wentzville, Mo.
Posts: 2,893
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 15 Post(s)
Garage
I would recommend using the money it would take to buy and install new metal in this car plus the initial purchase price and find a GTO in better shape. My rule of thumb is always buy the best car you can afford.
ALKYGTO is offline  
post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-08-2015, 08:47 PM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 4
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
That's a good rule of thumb to go by. I'm surprised nobody else here has replaced their floor and quarter panels due to rust issues though. I was hoping to talk with someone who has been through this before and what it cost them, how difficult it was and how long it took, etc.
Deveaux is offline  
 
post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-08-2015, 10:53 PM
Former Moderator
 
ALKYGTO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Wentzville, Mo.
Posts: 2,893
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 15 Post(s)
Garage
I replaced my trunk floor, quarter panels, and rockers. Basically anything that was covered by chrome trim was completely rusted. I bought the panels, a plasma torch, an air compressor and a welder and went to work. I did everything on my car myself except for the chrome moly roll bar and final assembly of the engine. 6 years later it rolled under its own power.

I say buy the best car you can also because even though replacement sheet metal is available the quality isnt near OEM.
ALKYGTO is offline  
post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-08-2015, 11:10 PM
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Injun Territory, 'Merica!
Posts: 1,611
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 121 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Deveaux View Post
That's a good rule of thumb to go by. I'm surprised nobody else here has replaced their floor and quarter panels due to rust issues though. I was hoping to talk with someone who has been through this before and what it cost them, how difficult it was and how long it took, etc.
DeVaux, Alky gave you some very good advice. Have replaced one 1/4 with nos on two of my keepers, luckily, they are very solid cars, did not have to chase the tin worm. Also have provided nice straight rustfree original sheet metal to many restorers. One of my customers had a rusty '69 4 spd GTO through a very similar process to what you are describing aprox 7 years ago. Proper metal replacement, with PPG products, blocked, he was ready for paint at right under 18k, in metal and bodywork... prices have gone up, though.

Here's a rundown on that '69. Replaced both '69 hardtop 1/4's with full repro's (just came out) replaced outer wheel houses, trunk drops, all done systematically one side at a time. Replaced trunk floor, outer catwalk, properly rebuilt rear window channel with hand formed steel patches, replaced floor pan with pair of high quality full length sides, replaced outer rocker panels, rebuilt front window channel properly with steel. Original fenders worked, quality lower patchs and metal worked. Nice hood to begin with. Nice used TX doors required little work. No rust through, or big dents in roof, no replacement of rear tailpanel, no replacement of rear package shelf, no rust high up in the toe boards...

Today, that's an easy 25K expense, put in epoxy primer and high build, that's if you live in one of the "flyover states" where labor is less, and you can keep a qualified metal man happy, a fellow that has low overhead. Very hard to find them, if you cant do it yourself. I deal with many production type body shops that wont touch such a job. Several shops I've supplied hard to find original sheet metal to for years, won't even paint a full car anymore, even if you bring said car to them on a golden platter.

Unforeseen hidden rust, previous repairs, near impossible to track down quality parts all add to the the bill. Cost Plus is best billing method for shop owner or individual metal/ bodyman. Go in and estimate a job, then find hidden problems that need correcting, and then expect to be held to an estimate, one of two thing happen. Either, corners get cut, , or shop/ help does the job right and loses money.
Pinion head is offline  
post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-08-2015, 11:24 PM
Former Moderator
 
ALKYGTO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Wentzville, Mo.
Posts: 2,893
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 15 Post(s)
Garage
Talk to Mogoat on here about body's shop "jail" too......lots of abandoned projects out there because an over enthusiastic owner got in over their heads or the body shop went belly up.

Not trying to scare you off but for a run of the mill GTO if it's too rusty it is better to find a solid car.

Now if it was a RA IV.......
ALKYGTO is offline  
post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-09-2015, 12:21 AM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 4
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Thanks guys. I'm glad I found this forum and decided to look for others opinions before getting myself into something I probably couldn't handle by myself.

Sadly I think I'll pass on this one for now. Frustrating because I've been waiting so long for a classic GTO to come up for sale in my area and I got pretty excited when this one popped up on Craigslist yesterday, but I guess patience is a virtue in situations like this.
Deveaux is offline  
post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-09-2015, 01:22 AM
Former Moderator
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Lake Arrowhead, Ca.
Posts: 1,499
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 106 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by ALKYGTO View Post
Talk to Mogoat on here about body's shop "jail" too......lots of abandoned projects out there because an over enthusiastic owner got in over their heads or the body shop went belly up.

Not trying to scare you off but for a run of the mill GTO if it's too rusty it is better to find a solid car.

Now if it was a RA IV.......
^this^

I have read all the horror stories and looked at a lot of overpriced pieced together Bondo queens for over a year looking for a '67 and found a Ca. car that was rust free that the second owner paid 25+ just for paint and interior.
Cosmetically it was a 10, mechanically about a 4 but for the most part it was original and unmolested.
I probably paid too much but I did get the seller to come down 16K.
I did most of the work myself, under the dash was a mess, I rebuilt the steering column, restored the steering wheel and the heater core was leaking so I replaced that and had to source another A/C heater box that someone had cut up with tin snips to remove the core from the inside.
I also had to re glass the plenum which had cracked and became brittle with age.
Both the original and the one I sourced were in bad shape.
Going through the dash was time consuming and would be expensive if you could find someone willing to do it.
The suspension needed everything all new suspension parts and I added boxed trailing arms, Bilstien shocks and upgraded the front drums to disc.
Then there are the incidentals, harnesses, vacuum cans, gaskets, mounts, PHS report, shop manual etc.
I also replaced the J.C Whitney gauges with Greenlines and a retro sound system and speakers since I had the dash apart.
I went through the tranny at my buddy's shop, new pump seals, pump bushing, clutches etc.
These parts were cheap but again not so cheap if you have to have a tranny shop do the work.
All that including going through the rear end and rebuilding the driveshaft is done.
Exhaust and new tank is done, Pypes system and I traded boatwork on an outdrive for the welding.
Then there is the engine it has to be rebuilt if you want it to run on pump gas.
5 new tires and another Rallye II rim for the spare since the 14" rim would only work if I got a flat on the rear.
It is all done now just waiting on the engine from the builder.
I have spent the 16K I talked the guy down so I was pretty close to what I told him it would cost but it would have been a lot more if I had paid to do the work instead of doing most of it myself.
I am just waiting on the engine from the builder so the cost of the car restored bumper to bumper is right at 61K including the Ca. tax and DMV fees.
It will look like it did when it rolled off the line in Fremont in '67 but it cost a bit more than the original price of $4,105.87.


If you can't do the work I would pass on the car and try to find one that is in better shape, finding a shop to do the body work is going to be nearly impossible to find at any price.
I went through this with another vehicle (body shop jail mentioned above) and had to get it back and do the work myself and buy the equipment to do it.
I got ripped off for 4K and 6 months of time (estimate was 4-6 weeks) while it sat outside and I got it back with some of the parts missing I had to source and pay for.
That is why I bought one rust free with all the bodywork, paint and interior finished, I probably saved money in the long run and I got to inspect the work up front.
4K sounds like a good price but if you can't do the lion's share of the work or have a large bankroll I would pass and keep looking, you don't want to have 25K sunk into a project that is half done and nobody willing to finish for you.
Goat Roper is offline  
post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-09-2015, 08:53 AM
Former Moderator
 
ALKYGTO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Wentzville, Mo.
Posts: 2,893
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 15 Post(s)
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by Deveaux View Post
Thanks guys. I'm glad I found this forum and decided to look for others opinions before getting myself into something I probably couldn't handle by myself.

Sadly I think I'll pass on this one for now. Frustrating because I've been waiting so long for a classic GTO to come up for sale in my area and I got pretty excited when this one popped up on Craigslist yesterday, but I guess patience is a virtue in situations like this.
Where are you located Deveaux? We have a classifieds section on here post up a wanted ad or maybe another member on here can help you find what you want. If you find a car out of state another forum member might be able to check it out for you also. Do you have a budget? Are you mechanically inclined where you could find a roller or at least something you can drive without doing major body work?

As a side note there is a beautiful Verdoro Green 68 GTO with a green interior on STL Craigstlist that has been there for a while for only $18.5K and I think that is a steal, judging by the ad car is pretty pristine looking. https://stlouis.craigslist.org/cto/5047694882.html "1968 Pontiac gto, great car. Runs/looks good. Has original motor serial number matches paper work. Has hood tach and his/her shifter verdoro green ext. Nice driver. $18,500 obo"

I'd love to see you get your dream GTO, maybe we can help.
ALKYGTO is offline  
post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-09-2015, 06:26 PM
Former Moderator
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Lake Arrowhead, Ca.
Posts: 1,499
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 106 Post(s)
Just looking at the pictures that is a nice looking car for the price.
If it was in Ca. it would have sold by now.
Goat Roper is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

  Pontiac GTO Forum > The 1964-1974 Pontiac Tempest, Lemans & GTO > 1964-1974 Tempest, Lemans & GTO General Discussion

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Pontiac GTO Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in











Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
71 GTO to fix or not to fix? 70droptopgoat 1964-1974 Tempest, Lemans & GTO General Discussion 1 04-23-2014 05:53 PM
How do I fix rust around rear window of 1965 GTO dlloyd Exterior Discussions 2 08-05-2012 08:03 PM
it cannot be that difficult... leeklm 1964-1974 Tempest, Lemans & GTO General Discussion 3 03-28-2012 08:38 AM
Why is it so difficult? Correct total build numbers? cpr 2004-2006 GTO General Discussion 12 04-13-2010 07:03 PM
I am suprised at how difficult simple mods are on the GTO! GTO Roper Service, Maintenance and Technical Discussion 2 04-25-2006 05:54 AM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome