how not to run starter wires - Pontiac GTO Forum
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-18-2011, 06:51 PM Thread Starter
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how not to run starter wires

I ran my starter wires. 4ga along the top of the solenoid out toward the rear of the car and up to the firewall.
I had a good 6'' of the wire tightly wrapped in 1500-2000 degree header tape.
with only my 25 minute cam brake in on the motor, here's what the cable looks like.
The outside of the wrap is untouched.But as I tried to slide the wires back (Starter removed) to check for damage , they wouldnt slide
As I cut all of the (4) safety wires wraps the plastic of the cable was embedded in the inside of the header tape!!!!!!
SIGH.........I guess i'll be pulling out my motor mount to drill holes in it for the battery tube this weekend LOL
The 2nd pic is of the installation for the tube......does this look correct?
seems like it should at least be canted toward the block instead of the ex manifold.
dam
thanks as always
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Last edited by Topkat; 05-18-2011 at 07:13 PM.
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-18-2011, 06:58 PM
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Dont' see any pics, Top. You need to use the heat resistant asbestos sleeve on these wires. It's available from the vendors or a "real" auto parts store. Without the metal tube and the insulation, you're doomed to melted wires and an electrical fire.
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-18-2011, 07:47 PM
 
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Your lucky the battery didn't blow up...

About a month ago when you asked about running wires through this tube, I explained to you the way I do it. Find that topic and read it real carfully.
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-19-2011, 06:50 AM
 
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Topkat, maybe I'm not 100% understanding what happened here, your starter wire melted on the headers? (note I have no experience with pontiac motors, and don't know your combo)

pictures look bad though. good luck man.
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-19-2011, 07:13 AM
 
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I have my battery cable running forward to the battery and other wires running back to the firewall without any covering, I made sure they had plenty of clearance from the headers and haven't had an issue. Your harness must of been real close to the headers to melt. Reroute for clearance and they're should'nt be an issue.

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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-19-2011, 11:11 AM Thread Starter
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I had the cable wrapped in 2000 degree header tape and the wires running along the top of the solenoid toward the back of the motor.they were about an 1 1/2 away from the ex manif.
OK..........I will do it properly, lol, starter, wires running fwd thru the 6'' tube,
BUT how the heck do ya ever remove the started with no slack in the cable?
Maybe have some slack around the battery?
thanks as always
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-19-2011, 11:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Topkat View Post
I had the cable wrapped in 2000 degree header tape and the wires running along the top of the solenoid toward the back of the motor.they were about an 1 1/2 away from the ex manif.
OK..........I will do it properly, lol, starter, wires running fwd thru the 6'' tube,
BUT how the heck do ya ever remove the started with no slack in the cable?
Maybe have some slack around the battery?
thanks as always
I purchased my battery cables from Ames. I discovered they could stand to be another 3-4" longer. The Pos cable should run along the top of the driver side inner fender in the wire ties then make a turn and enter the battery wire tube. They are not long enough to do this and I could only use the one wire tie. The cable is taunt but there is plenty of clearance and all is well.

I replaced aftermarket ones someone had on there and there was plenty of slack in them but not these OEM Looking ones even after verifying I was sent the correct ones.

Don't know the proper wiring on your year car. If you have slack, IMO I would make sure the routing is proper up top and use the slack at the starter making sure all is secure and properly secured.

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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-20-2011, 09:31 PM
 
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Is this headers only application? I have stock manifolds and mine has a tube that bolts to the head and the wires run between the head and manifold through the tube. Should I find some asbestors insulation also?
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-22-2011, 04:49 PM
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Orbit, yes you should. You have regular exhaust manifolds, and they use a tube between #5 and #7 cylinders that runs thru the exhaust. I installed AMEs repro cables and a new engine harness in my '67 recently, and discovered that ALL the wires could stand to be maybe 3 inches longer. It was a real bugger to get the starter solenoid hooked up with the starter way up near the engine. With my original harness, I could just disconnect the + cable and the starter would come down about 10 inches...it was a snap to hood up the solenoid. This last time was NO fun. I hope my starter lasts a long time.....
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-22-2011, 08:31 PM
 
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Are you sure those wires melted from engine/exhaust heat? It almost looks like there was a short or a lot of resistance in the line and they got hot and melted.....hard to tell from a pic, just something to consider......E



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