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Parts Listing Directory

9K views 12 replies 5 participants last post by  PontiacJim 
#1 ·
OK, this was suggested for us guys who buy parts for our cars. List the Part highlighted in bold black using the print feature above, then the year application, supplier, and part number, and then your honest comments on finish, fit, and experience in using if it has been installed - pros, cons, tweaks to make it work, or other. I buy parts to add to my "pile" and the parts look good, but I won't be able to comment fully on them until installed and under actual usage - my opinion could easily change. So you can describe what you see, or compare to the original, and let it go at that until it gets installed and used. Then come back and comment. Highlighting in black may help others when doing a Google Custom Search in the upper right hand corner looking for info on a part.

For those who are saying, "How do I highlight in bold black lettering?" Simple. Put your mouse pointer in front of the word, then hold down the left button on the mouse, and drag across the word/letters you want to highlight in bold black. Let up the button once you have highlighted it in "blue" (what I see using Windows) with the mouse pointer. Then put you mouse pointer on the B to highlight it, and click it once and it will highlight your word in bold black. Another way is to do this manually. In front of the word, put a bracket [, followed by the capital letter B, then enclose the B with an opposing bracket ] - so you will have typed [ - B - ] with no spaces in between. Repeat this at the end of the word to be highlighted. Now when you hit the button below to "Preview Post", it should show the part you submitted as being bold black.

BUT, here is the kicker. This is not a thread to trash any supplier. We all have different skill levels, have parts brand preferences, and we also see our cars as those fitting the assorted categories as "rat rods", "daily driver," "25-footer", "50-footer," "original," "restoration," "resto-mod," "show quality," "concours," "street," "street/strip," or "racer." So one brand and/or part may be great for my "rat-rod," but will not cut it on my "concours" quality show car. Price can also be a factor: If I purchase part "X" for $25.00 and the quality is just OK or even cheap, there may be a far better superior and exact original matching part "X" costing $125.00. So, you do get what you pay for most times, but because you wanted an original matching repop, but didn't want to spend $125.00, then shame on you for buying the $25.00 part and coming on this thread and complaining about the quality and that the company sells junk, and they would not give you your money back, blah, blah, blah. DO NOT DO THIS! Keep those comments to yourself, or start another thread and trash the supplier/seller there. Let the reader decide for him/her self if the part is acceptable, or not, for their car/build.

So list anything and everything, from small to big, and preferably with a photo or two so we can see the part. IF you try to download a photo that is too big on the megapixels, you won't be able to. I have a Windows system, so I simply open the photo in the Paint program, and use the resize feature, click on "Pixels" and drop it down to about 480-500 pixels on whatever the largest dimension might be, like an 8" x10", I size down the 10" and the 8" will be automatically sized down to keep proportions correct. Others can typically find a free downsizing program. I also have one of these on another computer for such use.

So add as you feel you want and hopefully an administrator will make this thread a sticky so we can keep it going and have it easily accessible. :thumbsup:

Here is my example: Doohickey, 1968 1/2 only, No name manufacturing, [URL=https://www.gtoforum.com/usertag.php?do=list&action=hash&hash=1]#1 2379[/URL] . This part is listed as an exact fit to the original, but was not. It was close, but I had to bend the L-bracket in about 1/8" to the left and drill the attachment hole a little largr in order for it to fit correctly. Other than that, a perfect match. Photo #1 is as recieved. Photo #2 is my modifications to make it fit.
 
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#2 ·
1968 In-Dash Clock

The 1968 cars used a blue-grey face as opposed to the black face used on 1969 gauges. My '68 Lemans has the filler plate where the clock, or in-dash tach can be fitted. Since I already have a tach I will be mounting on the exterior, I wanted to fill the blank hole with the factory type in-dash clock.

Thus is the reproduction quartz movement clock that you can get from several of the Pontiac parts suppliers. I went with the Parts Place as their price was good and shipping costs fair. Hard to see, but it does include the clear plastic lens over the face. I also purchased their light harness which included the 2 light sockets and a plug-in end to connect to the factory wiring. I am not looking for an original factory clock and then have to send it out to restore to like new condition. For me, this was the easy route and does what I wanted.

Fast shipping and boxed in bubble wrap, so it arrived in good condition. Photo 1 is the front face. Photo 2 is the back housing showing the holes for the 2 light sockets and tab for your power supply. Does it work? Assume it does, but who is going to be looking at the clock when I have a speedometer and tach to keep and eye on? :yesnod: That ugly blank filler plate just had to go and even if the clock were a dud (which I am sure it is not), it still looks better than the filler plate. :thumbsup:
 

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#3 ·
Radiator Overflow Tank

Technically called an "Expansion Tank." I wanted to add to my pile of parts an overflow tank, I have yet to buy a radiator and won't do so until I have the engine in the car seeing I will have to fab mounts for my set-up being a non-stock build with fiberglass nose.

You have a number of options if you do a search for a radiator overflow tank. They come in aluminum, stainless steel, chrome, or plastic and in all kinds of sizes and shapes - as well as prices. I wanted a little "shine" on mine and did not want to have to polish an aluminum tank to keep it shiny nor worry about chrome, so stainless steel was for me. I wanted something that would fit alongside my future radiator and be slim, and I wanted a length that would somewhat match the radiator in height which should be about 19".

Speedway Motors is where I got this one. I have bought a number of parts from Speedway and they focus on hotrod builds, so they have a huge selection of parts needed for fabricating or adding-on "stuff." Here are the specs:

2" x 17" stainless steel tank. Mounting brackets are welded to the tank. You get 2 additional stainless steel "L" brackets and nuts & bolts for mounting. The cap is a heavy screw-on cap sealed by an O-ring. Have read of some tanks having the inlet/outlet tubes at the bottom welded at slight angles. These are straight, no issues. Quality look great.

Price is $39.00 plus shipping and tax for a total as delivered of $52.16. Fast shipping and well packaged.

This is going to look good in my engine bay. :thumbsup:
 

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#6 ·
Radiator Overflow Tank

Technically called an "Expansion Tank." I wanted to add to my pile of parts an overflow tank, I have yet to buy a radiator and won't do so until I have the engine in the car seeing I will have to fab mounts for my set-up being a non-stock build with fiberglass nose.

You have a number of options if you do a search for a radiator overflow tank. They come in aluminum, stainless steel, chrome, or plastic and in all kinds of sizes and shapes - as well as prices. I wanted a little "shine" on mine and did not want to have to polish an aluminum tank to keep it shiny nor worry about chrome, so stainless steel was for me. I wanted something that would fit alongside my future radiator and be slim, and I wanted a length that would somewhat match the radiator in height which should be about 19".

Speedway Motors is where I got this one. I have bought a number of parts from Speedway and they focus on hotrod builds, so they have a huge selection of parts needed for fabricating or adding-on "stuff." Here are the specs:

2" x 17" stainless steel tank. Mounting brackets are welded to the tank. You get 2 additional stainless steel "L" brackets and nuts & bolts for mounting. The cap is a heavy screw-on cap sealed by an O-ring. Have read of some tanks having the inlet/outlet tubes at the bottom welded at slight angles. These are straight, no issues. Quality look great.

Price is $39.00 plus shipping and tax for a total as delivered of $52.16. Fast shipping and well packaged.

This is going to look good in my engine bay. 👍

Hey Jim

I have been looking at these...i have seen this one. What is the best in the engine bay orientation for installation? This is for our 65...suggestions?
 
#4 ·
Installed new rubber clutch and brake pads along with the trim plates to replace my original worn out pieces.

Installed a new clutch pedal (bushing) rubber snubber. The rubber block was a little too large for my application, so I sanded it down approximately 1/8" to give me a height of 1/2". Trimming, or even eliminating this block can provide additional pedal travel for clutch adjustment if ever needed.

Sourced my parts from OPGI and took advantage of their sale flyer. Fit and quality were perfect. Shipping rates are the killer so I try to order a number of items. Also bought the brake pedal pad & trim plate.

2 Clutch/Brake Pedal Pads - $9.99 each
2 Pedal Pad Trim Plates - $7.99 each
1 Set (2) Clutch/Brake Bushing - $9.99

Drawing Black-and-white High heels
Auto part Vehicle
 
#7 ·
Just saw this, a little late, but the answer is they gotta have tabs as that is what holds the trim on. They just fit over the rubber and are secured by folding/bending over the small tabs which are part of the trim. Your tabs may be snugged up tight and seem like there are no tabs. Use a mirror and hold it behind the pedal so you can see how they are attached. There are no screws or adhesive used unless a former owner did something like that. Shouldn't be too much problem using a flat bladed screw driver to pry the tabs up and remove the trim.
 
#9 ·
1968 Lemans Speedometer with Speedometer Warning Option.

Review - Instrument Specialties, Inc., North Kingston, Rhode Island

My '68 Lemans was equipped with the speedometer having the Speed Warning Device & Low Fuel Warning Light (these are ordered as a combination together). The odometer is located differently on these gauges. The purpose of the speed warning is that you can turn the knob/dial that will set the "yellow" indicator to any desired speed that you want to travel up to, but not go over that speed. When the "red" speedometer needle reaches your set point, an electrical connection is made that activates an annoying buzzer behind the dash to let you know you are going past the predetermined set point, ie 70 MPH. In this way, you don't have to keep looking down at your speedometer to monitor your speed - the buzzer goes off and you let off the gas to drop your speed. The option can keep you from traveling too fast and get a ticket OR it can be annoying and you rotate the speed warning needle all the way to 120 MPH so you never hit it - because we never, ever, ever, drive our cars that fast.

In rebuilding my gauge cluster, I did not want to restore the gauges as the faces were in good condition. My other gauges cleaned up well with a little mild soap/water and Q-Tip. I wanted the speedometer checked out/greased/calibrated, clean the face & odometer numbers, repaint the needles, and test the speed warning function.

I contacted Instrument Specialties as it was recommended by my brother who works in the same business complex. My brother was down for a visit so I sent my speedo back with him to drop off. I told them what I wanted. I was given a price and paid it in full with my credit card knowing that price could go up if problems were found. They will accept a partial payment and get the rest upon completion, but I just preferred to pay their total and adjust it if it went up.

I got everything I wanted done. I did not want the odometer mileage changed and wanted to retain the original factory numbers (note - this is how some cars become "low mileage" cars when they are not). They tightened up the warning needle as it was floppy and painted the warning needle stem as I did not need it rechromed for my resto-mod. The speed warning had a broken plastic screw used to insulate it from the 12V electrical source. This screw was not available and the shop came up with a fix that worked just as well by insulating the speed warning in a different way. They had no way to test with a "buzzer" but did an Ohm test and said it appeared to be functioning. I did not have to have it working and told them if it did not work, I was OK with that as I was still going to re-install it in my car being it was original.

So the photos are of the refurbed gauge as I picked it up on a vacation trip to visit my brother in Rhode Island. I was told it would be 4-6 weeks, but also told them I have a project build that is nowhere near completion so it was no rush. The broken plastic screw set time back as they did try to find a replacement but were unable to find anything readily available. The Covid-19 also did not help and slowed things down. So it took longer to refurb - 20 weeks. BUT, I was in no rush and this is no complaint and am sure with many car enthusiasts out of work, the shop was loaded down with guys getting the gauges/dash clusters rebuilt/restored.

The price for all the work was $214.00 and no shipping was involved.

Gauge Speedometer Auto part Measuring instrument Tachometer
Auto part
Product Technology Electronic device
 
#11 ·
This has nothing to do with a speedo. I am a 70 Chevelle guy/one owner
LS5/M-22 and a 70 468 driver. I have a pontiac carb. that I had on my 454 for many years. My LS-5/M-22 is now a trailer Queen. Here is what I have " A 1970 Pontiac 4 speed Q-Jet. Here is the number on the Q-Jet
7040263---1687. I am guessing, Some pontiac owner may want this. I talked to my buddy Jim,( He is a member of the Western Pa. Pontiac club) =64-66 GOAT? I see Jim and his goat buddys at the local car cruises. Someone here may know me. My Triple black 70 SS 454-M-22, PS--PBs--PW--A/C-AUX lighting --Etc,Etc.... El Camino and my FAKE / FRAUD SS 468 Red 70 Wgn. THANX for your time,, Bob Robinls5@aol.com
 
#12 ·
O52 just slipped this in. Has many of the needed small parts and bunch of other hardware items you may need for your build. Might be posted on the other parts list, but putting here as well.

 
#13 ·
O52 just slipped this in. Has many of the needed small parts and bunch of other hardware items you may need for your build. Might be posted on the other parts list, but putting here as well. AMK products

And here is another place I have gotten pieces/parts from and they offer all kinds of items you may never use in a lifetime, but who knows. McMaster-Carr

 
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