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post #11 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-25-2019, 09:20 PM
 
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Originally Posted by Tom McBroom View Post
Lucas also makes a "Hot Rod and Classic Car Oil", which already contains zinc and phosphorus, so looks like the best of both worlds. A bit pricey at $37 on Amazon for a five quart container, but shipping is free.

Here's a question for PontiacJim: in doing research everything says that a zinc additive is only necessary if you have a flat tappet cam. Roller cams are fine with modern conventional oil.

Jim: do you know if a 1969 GTO with a stock 400 ci 350 HP has a flat tappet cam or a roller cam? I believe the answer is flat tappet in doing research, but everything I've found so far is a bit vague, as they mostly talk about the Ram Air engines. Mine is a stock 350 HP.

Tom

Lucas products seem to be a good line. I use their conventional gear oils and it is the only brand I use when it come to conventional gear oil. I would not have a problem using their engine oil. Remember, it may seem pricey, but you are not driving the car everyday and for some, 1 oil change a year is it, so that price once a year is acceptable in my book. Now if I put 20,000 miles a year on my car, that might be hard to accept and I'd have to find another solution.

Yep, flat tappet hydraulic lifters/cams on all our Pontiac's, to include RA engines, unless someone opted to install an aftermarket solid flat tappet cam/lifters or a roller cam set-up. Rollers have their drawbacks, one of which is cost. I am not a real big fan of roller cams for a number of reasons, but many do use them.
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post #12 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-26-2019, 01:38 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PontiacJim View Post
Lucas products seem to be a good line. I use their conventional gear oils and it is the only brand I use when it come to conventional gear oil. I would not have a problem using their engine oil. Remember, it may seem pricey, but you are not driving the car everyday and for some, 1 oil change a year is it, so that price once a year is acceptable in my book. Now if I put 20,000 miles a year on my car, that might be hard to accept and I'd have to find another solution.

Yep, flat tappet hydraulic lifters/cams on all our Pontiac's, to include RA engines, unless someone opted to install an aftermarket solid flat tappet cam/lifters or a roller cam set-up. Rollers have their drawbacks, one of which is cost. I am not a real big fan of roller cams for a number of reasons, but many do use them.
Thanks for the quick reply, Jim. I'm going to go with Lucas oil, since they have the right additives and get great reviews on Amazon, as well as the PontiacJim seal of approval!

Tom
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post #13 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-26-2019, 06:43 PM
 
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Originally Posted by Tom McBroom View Post
Lucas also makes a "Hot Rod and Classic Car Oil", which already contains zinc and phosphorus, so looks like the best of both worlds. A bit pricey at $37 on Amazon for a five quart container, but shipping is free.

Here's a question for PontiacJim: in doing research everything says that a zinc additive is only necessary if you have a flat tappet cam. Roller cams are fine with modern conventional oil.

Jim: do you know if a 1969 GTO with a stock 400 ci 350 HP has a flat tappet cam or a roller cam? I believe the answer is flat tappet in doing research, but everything I've found so far is a bit vague, as they mostly talk about the Ram Air engines. Mine is a stock 350 HP.

Tom
Don't you need at least 6 qts?
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post #14 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-27-2019, 12:43 PM
 
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Don't you need at least 6 qts?
I'm going to buy 2 five gallon containers just for that eventuality....
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post #15 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-08-2019, 12:21 PM
 
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Here it is. I have a 2015 Hyundai Accent, 1.6 litre GDI engine with now 100,000 miles on it. Have put 70,000 on it since buying it.

The factory oil weight is the 5W-20 stuff (I believe synthetic is recommended) and the manual says to change every 7,000 miles.

I run 10W-30 conventional oil and change the oil/filter every 3,500-4000 miles. Here in the south the summer temps are 92-100 degrees during the day. I run 80 MPH (2,600 RPM's) on the interstate going to work (about 20 miles of the 32 mile drive) and any time I am on the highway, plus a lot of stop and go. I don't baby the car, but I don't beat on it either. So I use the 30W oil based on the hot summer temps and my driving style. I burn 1 Quart of conventional oil each 4,000 miles - which I think is fairly good.

Decided to try an experiment. Switched to a synthetic oil this past oil change. I have gone 700 miles so far and I am down 1/3 a Quart already. I figure I might get 2,000 miles to a quart - 1/2 the oil mileage I get from conventional oil.

So if my oil mileage is what I think it will turn out to be, or less, then that means if I were to change oil based on the manufacturers recommendations, I would have to add 3 1/2 Quarts to reach 7,000 miles. That's a full oil change as it only holds 3.8 Quarts with the filter.

Hmmm. So if I only use 1 Quart of conventional oil in 4,000 miles and would use up 2 Quarts of synthetic oil in 4,000 miles.......which do you think I would recommend?

Now the argument here may be "but your engine will last longer with synthetic oil." Oh yeah, BS. My 1997 Toyota had 271,000 miles on it before I sold it using conventional 10W-30 oil and burned 1 Quart every 1,800 miles. Still pretty darn good oil mileage use at that high of mileage.

So the oil consumption I am seeing right now would indicate to me that conventional oil is better, and the high consumption of synthetic oil is reason for the manual to state an oil change every 7,000 miles because you are constantly adding fresh oil that extends the overall life of the oil in the engine - less oil changes, but you use more oil.

I guess this is to satisfy the "save the planet people," as the manufacturers push the oil change statistics of new cars versus old cars BUT leave out the fact that you use more oil between changes. And that's how you baffle the ignorant with BS rather than facts.

Using my car as an example, I drive a yearly total of about 21,000 miles each year, and based on 1 Qt of conventional oil burned per 4,000 miles versus 2 Qts of synthetic oil burned in the same 4,000 mile period the BS spin goes like this: What they tell you is that's just 3 synthetic oil changes a year versus 7 conventional oil changes because synthetic oil has an extended life. What they don't tell you is that you will burn 10.5 Quarts of synthetic oil versus 5.25 Quarts of conventional oil in a years time. Can you see the math or am I doing something wrong in my calculations?

I won't be using synthetic oil anymore, nor will I recommend it to anyone. Next oil/filter change will be conventional 10W-30 again.

That's my personal experience, and opinion on synthetic oil. I do not recommend it on any older engine for sure. If you want to use it, it is your choice.

Here is my follow up experience with the synthetic oil. Took a short vacation to visit family in New England. Put about 2,000 miles on the Hyundai, mostly highway driving 70-80 MPH. Kept an eye on the oil. I had to add a quart at 2,900 miles. So still short of the 4,000 mile - add one quart - conventional oil.

So my experienced comparison using my Hundai, is that the conventional 10W-30 oil is a better choice for me - by the time I have burned a quart of the conventional oil, I am at the point where I do an oil filter/oil change. Conventional oil is still cheaper than synthetic, so I am saving a few dollars.

Does this mean synthetic oils are bad, nope. Unless your early Pontiac engine has been built with synthetic oils in mind, ie roller cam/lifters, tighter bearing clearances, gaskets/seals, etc., then I would stick with a top quality conventional oil.
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post #16 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-14-2019, 05:38 PM
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I've been running Rotella diesel spec oil in all of my flat-tappet muscle cars for years and years. Stay away from racing oils....they do NOT have the additive package needed for street driven cars. They are meant to be run and dumped after a meet or a season.
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