VINs differing - Pontiac GTO Forum
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-29-2019, 02:06 PM Thread Starter
 
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VINs differing

My uncle passed and his dream car was always the '66 GTO. I inherited his and I've maintained it, showed it, stored it for a few years now but not being one to have time and get enjoyment from this car like him, I think it is time for me to prepare it for sale and think about my own dream car.

Anyways, I noticed that the VIN in the door and on the firewall are not matching. Why might this have been done? Maybe to make it a sports coupe instead of hard top? My uncle bought it as the more rare sports coupe and the b pillar does not disappear when rolling down the windows so I assume it is safe to market it as such?

What, in general, do you/did you look at when purchasing your GTO? What was more desirable?

This one is a tri-power 4-spd and has air though I don't know if it is factory or not. Anyway to tell? Does it make a big difference?

It has the original dash and stereo but someone added a CD changer in the trunk which I haven't figured out how to make work. Does this have an affect on the value if it is working or not?

Thanks in advance to anyone who gives me some help on this. I just want to get a fair value while getting this car to someone who would appreciate it more than me. I appreciate the history and seem to prefer the straight-line rubber burners over track cars, I just can't afford to keep it in storage and will have less time in the semi-near future thanks to an expected work promotion.
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-29-2019, 06:03 PM
 
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In this hobby, some people put a premium on originality. Numbers matching / unmolested cars have more appeal to many than cars modified to fit owners preference.

1966 was the most produced year of the GTO so that work against you a little in the "rarity" department.
Tripower and 4 speeds are obviously desireable. Post coupe VIN should begin 24207XXXXX (Xs=body number) - the one on the driver's door hinge pillar and the body tag should obviously match but the format of the information is different - the body tag has the plant designation between the 24207 and the body number

Pontiac Historical Services can provide you a pedigree for the car and you can see if the options the car was "born with" are still with it. e.g. the A/C, Tripower, etc.. It costs ~$75 but will probably help you sell the car.
PHS Automotive Services, Inc.

From many published sources some things are very easy to check.
production of 1966 sport-coupe is 10,363 cars and should have engine code WS (stamped on the block to the left of the water pump)

Other open sources can point you to other part numbers.

You can take a bunch of pictures (sure we'd love to see them) and place on eBay with a high reserve price and see what kind of responses you get. You could also talk to a consigner.

Best Regards, DK

DK

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"Pray as though everything depended on God. Work as though everything depended on you." - Saint Augustine
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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-29-2019, 06:27 PM
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On a '66, the VIN will not be on the trim tag on the firewall. The VIN will be on the door pillar and on the frame, driver's side, top of rail, right before the rear wheel. You can get the original build sheet from PHS. It will tell you exactly how the car came from the factory.
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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-01-2019, 07:31 PM Thread Starter
 
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So there is a tag on the firewall that has a VIN although not in a straight VIN format if that is what you mean. I have the PHS report for the firewall VIN. The paint and interior match those codes. This says it is the more rare sports coupe but rolling down the windows shows that it is a hard top. Do I market this as a hard top then?

Also, the engine has some fuel stains on it, how do I clean that?
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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-02-2019, 07:26 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ello Asty View Post
So there is a tag on the firewall that has a VIN although not in a straight VIN format if that is what you mean. I have the PHS report for the firewall VIN. The paint and interior match those codes. This says it is the more rare sports coupe but rolling down the windows shows that it is a hard top. Do I market this as a hard top then?

Also, the engine has some fuel stains on it, how do I clean that?
The tag on the firewall is not a VIN tag. It is called a Data Plate/Body Plate. It does not have the car's VIN. It will however have the 242 code showing that it is a GTO. All those numbers & letter codes on the Data Plate tell you what options the car was built with. Check out this site to decipher the Plate - 1966 Pontiac Body Plate Data

The Plate will have 66-24217 for the 2-Dr HT or 66-24207 for the 2-Dr Sports Coupe, or what most call a 2-Dr Sedan as it has a side post versus the hardtop having no post.

The Data Plate body ID will identify the car to be a Hardtop or pillared Sports Coupe. If the Data Plate does not match the body types, then there is something grossly wrong or has been altered. PHS documents have been know to be wrong because it may have been a factory error. So the Data Tag will determine the body style and it should match.

Now if the car has been altered, parts swapped, or anything illegal has been done, I suggest you confirm your VIN at the door post with the VIN found on the frame to make sure they match. If not, it could become a problem for the buyer depending on what state he/she lives in as many states require 2 VIN ID locations to authenticate - which most vehicles have. And then it will come back on you as the seller.
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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-04-2019, 01:56 PM Thread Starter
 
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The tag on the firewall is not a VIN tag. It is called a Data Plate/Body Plate. It does not have the car's VIN. It will however have the 242 code showing that it is a GTO. All those numbers & letter codes on the Data Plate tell you what options the car was built with. Check out this site to decipher the Plate - 1966 Pontiac Body Plate Data

The Plate will have 66-24217 for the 2-Dr HT or 66-24207 for the 2-Dr Sports Coupe, or what most call a 2-Dr Sedan as it has a side post versus the hardtop having no post.

The Data Plate body ID will identify the car to be a Hardtop or pillared Sports Coupe. If the Data Plate does not match the body types, then there is something grossly wrong or has been altered. PHS documents have been know to be wrong because it may have been a factory error. So the Data Tag will determine the body style and it should match.

Now if the car has been altered, parts swapped, or anything illegal has been done, I suggest you confirm your VIN at the door post with the VIN found on the frame to make sure they match. If not, it could become a problem for the buyer depending on what state he/she lives in as many states require 2 VIN ID locations to authenticate - which most vehicles have. And then it will come back on you as the seller.
Nope, you are right and I should have corrected my post sooner. You've all been a big help and I appreciate it. The data plate matches everything that it could, exterior color, interior color, hard top though the paperwork shows my uncle bought it thinking it was a coupe...The first part of the VIN matches as well. Can you see the frame's VIN without taking off the body? I'll have to try this weekend when I start it.

The engine does not match and I think that they used a '67 engine. The rest is straight, though. 6k miles on a rebuilt engine, all three carbs rebuilt, interior is immaculate though I don't know if the floors are accurate. Was it straight carpet or did it have like a 12"x12" rubber/plastic squares that aren't uncommon for catching rocks nowadays? Like this one under the driver's legs is what I have. https://www.opgi-static.com/common/G...?v=21620121704

One last question, the engine has fuel stains from bad floats in the carbs, how do I clean that?
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Last edited by Ello Asty; 04-04-2019 at 02:01 PM. Reason: corrections & uploaded photo
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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-06-2019, 12:59 PM
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Candlelight Creme hardtop with what looks like factory Soft Ray glass....very nice. Love the wheels. The carpet you pictured is original. All GTO carpets had a molded plastic pad for the driver at the pedals. Gas stains? I use brake cleaner and a soft rag. Go easy...you can do more harm to the carbs than good trying to clean them too aggressively. Better off with honest dirty carbs than ones that have had the details and numbers scrubbed off of them! You will need a dentist's mirror and a good flashlight to see the frame number....sometimes you can slide a sheet of paper on top of the frame rail and rub a pencil over the paper....the VIN will transfer to the paper.
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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-10-2019, 08:00 PM
 
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I hade my frame sandblasted and could barely read my frame vin in the sunlight.
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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-11-2019, 06:23 PM
 
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from the thumbnail, it's doesn't look like the bpillar is there when the window is down.
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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-12-2019, 03:59 PM
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from the thumbnail, it's doesn't look like the bpillar is there when the window is down.
It doesn't have a B pillar. It's a hardtop coupe.
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