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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 12-20-2018, 10:33 AM Thread Starter
 
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WasabiGTO

I have a 65 GTO, for about 4 years. Awesome, dependable. Went to a store the other day, went to start it and nothing. Thought it was odd when I opened the door and the dome light did not come on. tried jumping the battery, nothing. Absolutely no electrics. Nothing, lights , nothing. Ground from battery to exhaust manifold was solid. Any ideas?
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 12-20-2018, 01:05 PM
 
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Hello and welcome !!

clean ALL connections of the battery cables ....

issue is probably NOT at the starter .... but

I would bet you have aftermarket bolt on clamps on the ends of cables at the battery ??

Scott

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Batte...End,55151.html

if so ... pull the clamp apart and clean
then we need to move on

do you have one of these ?
https://www.zoro.com/otc-circuit-tes...RoCbwkQAvD_BwE


they are so use full ..... in chasing gremlins
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 12-20-2018, 04:14 PM
 
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Check your Bulkhead/Fuse box at the Firewall.

Just went through a similar issue with my '66 this past summer.
Car would just die with ZERO Power to anything.
Turned out to be the Main 12V wire of the Starting/Charging circuit came detached from the bulkhead connector??
What a PITA, ended up getting a new M&H engine harness, ALL IS GOOD again.
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GTO Jr. - A.K.A. SPRINT 6
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 12-20-2018, 08:46 PM
 
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Couple of mine looked "funky" (pushed back in) and I went and ordered some replacement pins, soldered the wire on them and inserted them back in. They returned to normal height.

Should add that I always carry one of those cheap (sometimes free, Harbor Freight) volt/ohm meters in the car to be able to do some troubleshooting. i.e. measuring the BAT voltage on the terminal and on the connector, of course both should read the same voltage. Once had 13.8 volts on the alternator output but only 8.0 volts on the battery. Turned out to be the charging wire to the starter's big terminal. The lug was green and crusty. Replaced it and measured voltage between the alternator output and battery terminal was 0 volts. (no resistance, 13.8v at both places)
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 12-21-2018, 06:47 PM
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What GTO Junior said. Common problem. Clean with electric terminal cleaner and re-install with some silicone dielectric grease to keep the oxidation/corrosion at bay.
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 12-23-2018, 09:00 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GTOJUNIOR View Post
Check your Bulkhead/Fuse box at the Firewall.

Just went through a similar issue with my '66 this past summer.
Car would just die with ZERO Power to anything.
Turned out to be the Main 12V wire of the Starting/Charging circuit came detached from the bulkhead connector??
What a PITA, ended up getting a new M&H engine harness, ALL IS GOOD again.
I believe I have this issue as well. I have had several instances where I just lose all power. Pull off the road, look around various connections, and then the car starts right back up and runs fine. Unfortunately I broke one of the tabs that holds the engine bay harness to the fuse block / firewall. I am not sure if I can fix it (preferred method) or if I need to get an entirely new fuse block / wiring harness.

Thoughts?

I guess I could also bypass the harness for 12v+ and go directly (run a wire) to the fuse block ?

1965 GTO Convertible 3 speed tri-power drum brakes originally

Current setup:
400 cu in with tri-power
4 speed Muncie
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 12-26-2018, 07:04 AM Thread Starter
 
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Thanks for your help. Absolutely. Pulled the bulkhead connector off & one terminal was loose
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 12-26-2018, 07:52 AM
 
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Great News! Glad you found the issue, mine drove me a little nuts over the summer until I found the issue.
I wasn't able to repair mine and since the engine harness was 16YO aftermarket with a few other mods/repairs I made over the years I figured a new one was best.


FYI;
Lectric-Limited offers fuse block repair parts for anyone wanting to tackle that project.

GTO Jr. - A.K.A. SPRINT 6
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 12-26-2018, 08:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GTOJUNIOR View Post
Great News! Glad you found the issue, mine drove me a little nuts over the summer until I found the issue.
I wasn't able to repair mine and since the engine harness was 16YO aftermarket with a few other mods/repairs I made over the years I figured a new one was best.


FYI;
Lectric-Limited offers fuse block repair parts for anyone wanting to tackle that project.
I'll add that Lectric Limited has the CORRECT temperature sensors for our cars as well. I finally got the temp gauge in my '65 to read true temperature after years of it reading 20 degrees hotter than actual temp. Lectric Limited has excellent wiring and electrical products, and their service and prices are great, too.
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