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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-09-2011, 07:28 PM Thread Starter
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what is it #26

What is the hole on the upper left for?
It faces back toward the block.
thanks as always!!!!
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-09-2011, 07:36 PM
 
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water passage to the intake manifold
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-09-2011, 11:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Instg8ter View Post
water passage to the intake manifold
When you put it back together there should be a seal in your gasket set that looks a lot like a rubber garden hose washer. That's where it goes. There's also a long bolt and a separate metal tab that goes under the bolt head and sits in that slot above the hole on the front side of the timing cover and screws into the water crossover on the intake. That's what pulls and holds the two together. If you want, you can -carefully- cut the water crossover off the intake so that they're two separate pieces. That will allow you to change intake manifolds without having to open up the cooling system and also lets you keep the ports in the manifold lined up with the ports on the heads. Otherwise, that skinny bolt on the front of the timing cover tends to pull the whole intake forward and messes up the port alignment.

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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-10-2011, 05:01 AM Thread Starter
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That is the slot you mentioned?
up and to the right?
There is a slight slot in the water hole too.....
Thanks for the heads up on the gasket
That makes me think the intake manifold goes on before the TC cover.
thanks guys
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-10-2011, 08:21 AM
 
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I would tighten the front bolt before the intake is tight, so it can pull tight and make sure it doesn't leak. Don't over tighten the bolt or you can pull the threads out of the front of the intake.

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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-10-2011, 08:28 AM
 
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Install the timing cover. THEN the intake manifold, starting the bolts into the holes, a little less than finger tight.....THEN install the "cross over bolt"(with the rubber washer in place). Snug it down...remember, it is long, so it can twist....It is bearing against 2 aluminum tabs, and lastly, It only has to squeeze the rubber washer........Eric



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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-10-2011, 12:11 PM
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Ditto what Eric and Jetstang said. You don't have to put monster torque on that small bolt. You just have to use whatever is "enough" to make sure it doesn't leak. I've become a big fan of blue Hylomar gasket sealer. It seals really well and doesn't harden, allowing you to very often remove and reuse gaskets without tearing them up. It's pretty expensive, but in my opinion worth it.

And yes, as you're looking at the timing cover from the front those ears are above and slightly to the right of the hole. Here's a photo of everything assembled on my motor.

It really doesn't matter whether you install the timing cover or the intake first. If the water crossover is still part of the intake manifold, everything is going to have to move into the same spot to get that connection to seal regardless of which one is installed first - there isn't any "give" in those metal parts. Unless you just happen to just "get lucky" with where the port openings in your heads and intake are, you're going to get some mismatch when you seal up that water passage. That's not necessarily a bad thing though, depending on what the mismatch looks like. Imagine looking "through" the intake manifold in a direction into the head. If you can't see any ledges formed by the edge of the port in the head, it's not going to hurt you much, if any. In fact there is at least one school of thought that says having a slight mismatch so that an "edge" of the port in the intake manifold is "visible" as viewed from the cylinder head side is actually a good thing because it helps combat reversion problems. Reversion is where the flow of air/fuel going into the cylinder actually changes direction and flows backwards, out the intake and up through the mainfold and carburetor. It's most pronounced when running "nasty" high-overlap rumpity-rump cams when the motor is at low rpm. Having an edge of the intake manifold protrude into the cylinder head port presents an obstruction to this backwards flow. But doesn't hurt flow in the 'normal' direction.

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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-10-2011, 01:29 PM Thread Starter
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That's a cool motor ya got there Bear!!
I hope mine looks that good.
BTW..the plate for the timing marks,where does that mount to?
Also, what is that device between the fuel pump and the carb?
thanks!
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-10-2011, 01:40 PM
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Topkat, do what these guys are telling you and also, put a small amount of anti-sieze or grease on that long bolt that goes into the intake. They like to rust in place and break at the most inopportune times....
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-10-2011, 03:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Topkat View Post
That's a cool motor ya got there Bear!!
I hope mine looks that good.
BTW..the plate for the timing marks,where does that mount to?
Also, what is that device between the fuel pump and the carb?
thanks!
Thanks Topkat, all it takes is time, effort, and the occasional dollar. You can do it.
That device is a fuel pressure regulator. I'm running a pretty hefty mechanical fuel pump on 1/2" line to feed this thing, so I need the regulator to make sure the pressure into the carb isn't high enough to force the needle off its seat and flood the fuel bowl.

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