What Oil and Filter for my 455? - Pontiac GTO Forum
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-01-2011, 06:57 PM Thread Starter
 
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What Oil and Filter for my 455?

Hi,
Tried using the search but it seems to find everything but what I am looking for.

Need to know how many quarts and what filter I need for my 455. Not sure what car it came from, but was made in 1974.

I found allot of people saying 4+1 in filter and then also allot saying 5+1 in filter.

Thanks
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-01-2011, 08:25 PM
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What oil: anything with ZDDP in it, or be sure to add it. Currently I'm running diesel-spec Rotella T or Delo 15-40, but I prefer 10w-30. Next change, I'll give Brad Penn oil a shot. I always use WIX filters. My 389 takes 6 quarts, my 400 ('67) takes 6+ quarts, and some later engines take only 5. Check the dipstick. You can look up the WIX number on-line. (I'm not crawling under my cars tonight!) Good luck.
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-02-2011, 12:22 PM Thread Starter
 
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went to 3 places and all act like I'm stupid for asking what oil has zddp. Nobody ever heard of it. So I read all the labels and found only valvoline racing oil has it. I have no napa within 40 miles of me, so all I have are stp, bosch, and fram for filters and the fram isn't even their x6 version.

So can I use any oil made for a deisel engine? Po said he used castrol 20w-50, but it don't say zddp on it.

So I didn't buy anything. Might just get that valvoline. But what filter? No delcos or Mobil 1 for this engine?
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-02-2011, 01:26 PM Thread Starter
 
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lol, new problem, where in the heck to I put the oil in? Can't find a funnel tiny enough to fit the dip stick hole. I see no other place to put the oil.

Is it common for these old motors to use oil? It isn't leaking and don't smell like oil, but is using it.
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-02-2011, 01:54 PM
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The standard place to install oil is the oil filler cap on the driver's side valve cover. The manual says that the use of 1 quart per 750 miles is acceptable. Thankfully, mine don't use any (now that the rear main seal has been replaced!). Yes, you can run diesel spec oil in your engine. I've been doing it for years. The thing is, even the diesel oil is getting rid of ZDDP due to emissions requirements on diesel rigs. You can get ZDDP on line. STP is not the same thing. Good luck.
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-02-2011, 03:21 PM Thread Starter
 
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I can get this at advanced auto...same stuff? if so, do I need to put in 1 less quart of oil since this is 1 quart?

Rislone Oil Supplement with Zinc/ZDDP Treatment

If so, what oil would you recommend I buy to use with it? Prefferably something I can buy at autozone or advanced.

Or would you just use the Castrol diesel spec oil?

Thanks for your help
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-03-2011, 09:01 AM Thread Starter
 
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Which filter would you used when the choice is stp, bosch, and fram?

Is there any downside to the valvoline racing oil? Seems I read somewhere is was missing something since mose race car don't keep the oil in them that long, but can't find that post.
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-03-2011, 09:20 AM
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I've been using the vavoline racing 20w-50 for years and years, no issues. Which ever filter you want, they should all be comparable.
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-03-2011, 09:51 AM
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Originally Posted by BatmanGTO View Post
lol, new problem, where in the heck to I put the oil in? Can't find a funnel tiny enough to fit the dip stick hole. I see no other place to put the oil.

Is it common for these old motors to use oil? It isn't leaking and don't smell like oil, but is using it.
Your valve cover should have an oil filer cap on the driver side and on passenger side a breather hole. Many have a rubber cap on there instead of venting it. There should be a vent tube installed. I pointed this out to a guy with a '68 as his was capped and he was having some issues once he put a breather cap on it the problem subsided. If your vale covers have no means of adding oi and a breather I'd suggest installing correct ones.

I need to add a quart every 2K miles or so.

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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-04-2011, 10:57 AM
 
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My thoughts on oil from another thread on synthetics:

There's lots of websites that cover conventional / synthetic pros & cons. I found Joe Gibbs site pretty useful. They sell some; e.g., the HR (hot rod) oils for (non-cat converter) high performance street cars in both varieties so they offer some good insights on pluses and minuses of each type.

Joe Gibbs Driven - Racing Oil and High Performance Products

A search on the GTO Forum site will also add insight. There are reasons not to use syn that some cite; e.g., possible incompatibility of the gasket sealants used. I also seem to remember reading years ago about issues with some types of rear main oil seals when changing from conventional to synthetic and/or back again because seals swelled and/or shrank, etc. I think you'll find this addressed on some sites Q&A's like maybe Mobil-1. I've had multiple rear main seal types...including the post-asbestos rope type replacement around 1992 that started leaking pretty good (on conventional oil) a few years ago...the cause for a rear main replacement last year with the newer viton type. I don't know if viton is especially good for synthetics, but I'm using synthetic, probably without the degree of expertise I should have to make the best decision. And I don't know if it's as big an issue potentially on the front seal.

As you'll see elsewhere...the zinc level is critical if you've got flat tappet cam / lifters setup, maybe the most important issue. High (enough) zinc synthetics are available in limited oil weights; e.g. Mobil-1 has a 15w-50 that is higher weight than I wanted. So I went with Joe Gibbs, who had the 10w-30 I wanted with enough zinc. Another option for me would be 10w-30 Mobil-1 and add ZDDP-Plus (that's what I do for my boat motor).

My motor only had about 300 miles on a partial rebuild, so my case does not prove synthetic won't cause me a problem. Update...now at 8 months and more miles...still ok.
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