windage tray studs - Pontiac GTO Forum
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-11-2011, 05:36 PM Thread Starter
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windage tray studs

I finally got my stud set to mount my windage tray.
Both are Milodon.
the front part of the oil pan is hitting the front studs.
and the nuts the tray rests on are all the way down.
Ther is less than an inch of stud sticking out the top of the tray.
This keeps the front of the oil pan an inch above the block
NOW WHAT??????????
thank you
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-11-2011, 05:47 PM
 
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The windage tray is held on with grade 8 bolts. Use locktite red and torque to 15 ft lbs.

Did you swiss cheese your windage tray with about twelve 1/4" holes? This really helps oil drain back to the pan.

What type of gasket are you going to use on the oil pan on the back part of the oil pan to rear main cap? I like the square cork type. I like to wrap it around a small can overnight to take a round shape. Then I glue it on with Permatex High Tack sealant. The red stuff in white bottle comes with a brush on the cap. I also use this on the pan rail side gaskets to block. Then I coat the gaskets with a small amount of RTV sealant before putting the pan on. Once the pan is bolted on leave it for 24 hours.

Last edited by dimitri; 01-11-2011 at 06:01 PM.
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-11-2011, 07:24 PM Thread Starter
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GRRRRRRRRRRRRRR
according to the tech at milodon I have a couple options.
Buy a big high cap milodon oil pan.(as the stock trays ALWAYS hit the after market studs.Guess I didnt read that part.Nor did I see it.) for $300.
Or cut the front studs as short as I can and beat dents in the pan with a hammer and a socket, which may or may not work.
The high cap pans look real sharp.
Does anyone out there have a Milodon hi cap pan on their 67 Goats?
Do you guys think there will be a problem clearing the cross member in the frame?
thanks.
ps GRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR lol
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-11-2011, 07:36 PM
 
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Originally Posted by dimitri View Post
The windage tray is held on with grade 8 bolts. Use locktite red and torque to 15 ft lbs.

Did you swiss cheese your windage tray with about twelve 1/4" holes? This really helps oil drain back to the pan.

What type of gasket are you going to use on the oil pan on the back part of the oil pan to rear main cap? I like the square cork type. I like to wrap it around a small can overnight to take a round shape. Then I glue it on with Permatex High Tack sealant. The red stuff in white bottle comes with a brush on the cap. I also use this on the pan rail side gaskets to block. Then I coat the gaskets with a small amount of RTV sealant before putting the pan on. Once the pan is bolted on leave it for 24 hours.

The windage tray from the factory has bolts, not studs. Read what I wrote.
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-11-2011, 07:36 PM
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I think I'd grind the studs off and dent the pan first before I spent $300+ bucks for another part!!

After grinding place a dab of grease on each stud, then install the oil pan. Remover the pan and check for clearance by verifying the grease doesn't transfer to the pan from the studs.
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-12-2011, 05:46 AM Thread Starter
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The front of the tray hits the pan even with the bolts out.
Im starting to see why most of the windage trays are 3/4 lenght
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-12-2011, 08:59 AM
 
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Garage
Most engines don't even use windage trays. Worse case, just leave it out. My 76 400 didn't have one, while my 350 did. The motor in the pic is a 69 and has the tray.
I was thinking the stock tray mounted to the caps, and here's a pic of mine. Are your main caps drilled? You could just drill the windage tray and mount it like a stocker.

Burning rubber since 1982!!
My photobucket, lots of dif car pics.
http://s411.photobucket.com/home/jetstang
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-12-2011, 09:42 AM
 
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Do not use studs!!!!

Studs will crack and break at the tray.

Use GRADE 8 Bolts with red locktite torque to 15 ft lbs

You should be able to modify the front of the tray so it does not hit the pan.
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-12-2011, 12:25 PM
 
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that thing is unnecessary for a street car. waste of money.
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-12-2011, 12:27 PM
 
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there is also a reason the pan is shaped the way it is. if you get a pan that will clear all your new stuff it will probably hit the crossmember in your car and not go all the way down.


Shane Doss

66 tempest
64 el camino
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