69 GTO Rear coil sparring comparability options? - Pontiac GTO Forum
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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-03-2015, 05:10 AM Thread Starter
 
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69 GTO Rear coil sparring comparability options?

Hi
Do any of you guys know wha other rear coil springs (including modern) may be compatable with the GTO?
Living in the UK, I am looking to see what parts are or could be equivalent (more readily available over here) to rated rear coils on the Gto.

Do you know of any online resource that shows compatable alternatives (classic or modern)?

Thanks
Scott
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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-03-2015, 12:41 PM
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Hey Scott, what are you looking to do with the car? Maybe consider an air bag or "drag bag" that goes inside the spring. I run them in the stock spring on my car and you can basically adjust the spring rate with the air pressure. They are not like air shocks because air shocks support the weight of the car putting extra stress on your rear cross member.

http://www.summitracing.com/search?S...20air%20bag%5D

If you are running all stock rear suspension you might want to consider the rear frame braces if you don't have them (most automatic cars didn't) also.

If you want a higher rate spring usually a convertible spring or a station wagon springs are "higher rate" but they also jack up the back of the car, sometimes too much.
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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-03-2015, 05:17 PM Thread Starter
 
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Sorry. What I want is to know if there are any standard springs (other vehicle) that could be used instead of standard Gto rear springs?
Ie what (if any) modern springs would be equivalent to load spec of the original
Rear springs and may be more readily obtainable in UK as shipping fees from US is frightening?

But how do the 'air shocks' you mention work?

Cheers
Scott
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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-25-2015, 12:48 PM
 
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Hey Scott,
The air shocks were a big trend in the 1970's when guys would raise the rear of their car to run wide tires that protruded from the wheel wells (to avoid rubbing on the fender lip). Air shocks are still available today. The ones that were popular in the '70's were Gabriel Hi-Jackers. The shocks had plastic/nylon tubing (much like the tubing that comes with aftermarket mechanical oil pressure gauges) that mounted to each air shock and generally ran to a tee fitting that connected to an air valve (much like that for a tire) usually mounted in the trunk, but not always. Some guys would use them for drag racing to enhance traction by using a separate air valve for each shock and varying pressures. The more effective way was to use airbags as ALKYGTO mentioned. Also, as ALKYGTO mentioned, air shocks put the weight of the car's rear half onto the shock mounts and the parts the mounts attached to (not good). If your rear springs are sagging, I would use the airbags to level it out. Other than a Hollander manual, I don't know of any sources for spring interchange. Eaton Detroit Spring is the largest Co. I know of dealing with springs for older cars. You might want to contact them as they would have extensive resources on this topic. EATON Detroit Spring - The leading manufacturer of leaf and coil springs for the street rod and restoration industries
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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-25-2015, 12:54 PM
 
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Scott,
Another thought would be to check into rear springs for Chevelles (including SS396), Olds Cutlass and 442, Buick Gran Sports/Skylark/Special as these were all GM A-bodies like the LeMans/GTO. The A-bodies equipped with the larger engines and the two-door body should have comparable springs to your '69. Hope all this is of some help also!
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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-26-2015, 11:40 PM
 
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I've got a 66 and originally replaced front and rear suspension with all new stock shocks and springs. Moog springs and middle of the road shocks. I then went the air bag route in the test springs as well. After much wrestling and back and forth in regards to ride height and ride quality, I ended up tearing it all out and replacing it all with QA1 adjustable coilover shocks all the way around. Hind sight being 20/20 I wish I had gone the coilover route from day one. They give you complete adjustability in ride height, I like mine a little higher in the rear, and also ride quality with the valving adjustment knob on the base of each coilover. At the end of it all the coilovers have transformed her into driving like a modern car and replaced the "pillowy" floating ride you get in these old cars, especially on the highway, with essentially a modern suspension. At 70 mph on the highway I now get the slight drop and rebound you do with a modern car when going over bumps, whereas previously the car would float and rock front to back as you get with old school springs and shocks. Granted there are higher dollar springs and shocks out there that solve that problem too, to some degree. But they don't allow for the ride height and ride quality adjustability that the coilovers do. So basically for slightly under $1,000 I've got a much more responsive ride that I can adjust down at the turn of a knob to achieve as soft a ride as I like, or turn up for a more stiff ride, with the additional benefit of being able to raise and lower the front and back end to wherever I like it. Which additionally helps level out the "lean" to one side or the other that these old cars can have too. My two cents, hope it helps.
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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-27-2015, 09:35 AM
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^ so what if any reinforcements did you add to the rear shock mounts? Did you run a separate crossmember to mount them?

Also Scott....Station wagon springs are another option if you want to "jack" the rear of your car up as they are a heavier rate and a longer spring.
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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-27-2015, 02:08 PM
 
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No separate cross member or anything like that. The QA1's come with their own heavy duty bracketry that allow you to bolt everything right up. In the case of my 66 the upper side of the coilovers bolt through the included heavy gauge brackets using the existing holes where the stock shocks would bolt in. On the bottom side the coilover bolts in where the stock shock bolt would be as well, again through the use of a supplied heavy gauge bracket. All direct bolt in, no cutting, no welding, no nothing. I also have a 69 Buick Skykark N I made the same conversion with just as good results. In the case of the Buick you are required to do some minor drilling of an additional hole on both rear sides for added support. But again, no cutting or welding involved. In both cases installation easily achieved within an afternoon, especially with a buddy helping fetching you tools and beer...mainly beer though...haha.
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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-27-2015, 02:26 PM
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Can you post some pictures?
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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-27-2015, 02:41 PM
 
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Sure, if I can figure out how to do that.
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