Kick down switch issues - Pontiac GTO Forum
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-14-2013, 07:29 PM Thread Starter
 
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Kick down switch issues

I've asked this question before and did a little research on this site but I'm still not able get my kick down to work on my 66 GTO T-400 trany. I even bought another peddle and switch bracket off e-bay to compare. Nothing different..
Problem is that the peddle shaft doesn't reach the switch so I built up the switch with hoses to get it to reach and I'm still not getting anything. Maybe it needs to go further. Don't know.. But you would think I wouldn't need anything for it to work like it should...Maybe I'm mounting it wrong...Just don't know...Anyone have pics of their kick down , that would really help solve my issue...........thanks again guys
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-14-2013, 10:13 PM
 
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Same exact deal I had with my '66 with the electric kickdown at the pedal. When I got the car back from the guys who installed the new frame (was there for 6 years-haha-another story!) that piece was in the trunk, leaving me to install. I think there were parts missing, so I had to fabricate my own. If I'm not mistaken, the only automatics installed in the '66's were the super turbine 300's (th400 was available starting in '67). As luck would have it, I also have a th400 in it now, but still am using the existing kickdown assembly. Works great. On the th400, at the switch at the transmission, there are 2 prongs (only one on the st300). Bend the upper most one out of the way, and plug the connector into the lower prong. (I will verify this later this evening). As for the connection at the pedal, I will also check this out later and take a picture and post it (God willing). I researched that until I was blue in the face, with no luck, thus the "modification". I'm really happy though with this setup. Tromp on the gas, and she sets you back! You can also test the connection at the transmission side with a test light, and "adjust" your setup for where in the pedal travel you want it to "kick". (I've got mine set for when the secondaries on the carb just start to open up- gives it a nice "punch"!). Will try to post the pics later this eve.
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-14-2013, 11:38 PM Thread Starter
 
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thanks so much...sounds interesting.........But, I think my connection on the trany has only one spade type elec. connection for the wire coming from the kick down switch........Haven't been under there for a while so need to check again the continuity and see if I have a current running to the end of that wire when the switch is activated...........anyway, looking forward to hearing from you......
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-15-2013, 12:10 AM
 
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My kickdown isn't working either, but I have a full size 66 (TH-400) though.

Anyone care to chime in and help us out??
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-15-2013, 05:17 AM
 
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Cobby switch

Here are a couple of photos (hopefully):Click image for larger version

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ID:	20729 This should be deemed biggest cob of the year. (though it's been on almost 2 years). First pic. shows strapping around the backside. Second and third pics. show the washer assembly and bolt head. After I looked at these pics., I almost didn't post them because they are just downright hideous! I'd forgotten that it was only supposed to be a temporary thing, but it works. This combination of parts assembly was try #13. The first 3 attempts were pretty. Had chrome washers, and a different connector. The problem was that the washers would stick when they got to the end of its' travel (hard to see, but there are dimples there). then, if you got it slightly tight, it would bind. had to find just the right amount of slide action without binding. Finally settled on a front stabilizer rod washer, large steel shim, two washers to sandwich the rod (which is a copper ground lug with a self tapping bolt tightened in the end, with STIFF strapping attached via the bolt, around the backside of the crook of the pedal shaft (slightly loose). The head of the bolt rides right inside of the crook of the arm. Gotta have everything in alignment. Even after all that, once in awhile it would still bind. SO, there you have the eye appeal of teeth marks on the copper. Had to twist 'er a bit. Hasn't been one spec of trouble out of it since. Seriously, that was attempt #13. I was a little upset at that point, and didn't care what it looked like. NOW, does anyone have any idea what pieces parts were oem, and are they available????? It SURE would be nice to fix it right!!! Oh, and p.s. it's all held together by a rubber friction fit washer. (it's still in the same position as when I first put it on ).
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-15-2013, 11:06 AM
 
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Great pictures, thanks for posting. I have the identical set up using a firewall bracket and switch from a 67 GTO. I might also have to fabricate a 'connection' from the pedal to the switch. I am curious as to what the 67 GTO OEM attachment looked like. How do you 'fine tune' the switch activation point? Is that the function of the bolt, or positioning of the switch on the firewall bracket. If I recall correctly the mounting holes on the bracket are elongated..
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-15-2013, 07:52 PM Thread Starter
 
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Thanks for the pictures...Don't be ashamed of the looks...as long as it works........That's the issue for me anyway. I'm going to work on mine tomorrow again and will definitely use some or all of your fabrication issues to get mine working..........thanks so much for taking the time to take and send the pictures........I'll let you all know how it goes....
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-15-2013, 08:47 PM
 
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Bracketitis

Olde goat, There's only about one way to install that bracket, and yes it does have an elongated hole, but good luck trying to adjust it there. (you'll see why once you get into it). You'll probably have to adjust the throw of the rod. Better yet, how about getting some original pieces? That would be the ticket. I've searched in vain to find even a little info, but to no avail... I was just hoping I missed it somewhere, somehow. (I too at one point was this close to buying one off from Ebay, just to see what I could see). There's GOT to be parts, or pictures of parts for this deal. Gtoearl, I could be wrong, but I was told that the th400's had the 2 prong connector at the trans, and that the st300's and th350's had the single blade at the trans. (Just food for thought). Anyone at all have any info on this subject? Thanks.
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-15-2013, 11:48 PM
 
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Thanks for the post and pics gjones. I wish I could offer info about the kickdown.
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-16-2013, 08:36 AM
 
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gjones, thanks for the insight. I will search for some more original parts and report back. As for the connector, my TH400 also has a single prong connector at the case.
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