rear seat belt bolt removal - Pontiac GTO Forum
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-11-2018, 07:56 PM Thread Starter
 
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rear seat belt bolt removal

I need to remove the rear seat belts. The short headed bolts are almost impossible to get a socket or wrench on and they are rusty on the under side. How does anyone get them out. I know heat will help, but I have to get a grip on it. I thought of just drilling a hole and tapping the bolt (5/16-18) from under side, screwing a bolt in and use that to help turn as I heat. I do have the frame off so under side is very accessible. I want to do this before I prime and paint under side. Which is real soon (like next week).
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-11-2018, 08:31 PM
 
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Originally Posted by tjs72goat View Post
I need to remove the rear seat belts. The short headed bolts are almost impossible to get a socket or wrench on and they are rusty on the under side. How does anyone get them out. I know heat will help, but I have to get a grip on it. I thought of just drilling a hole and tapping the bolt (5/16-18) from under side, screwing a bolt in and use that to help turn as I heat. I do have the frame off so under side is very accessible. I want to do this before I prime and paint under side. Which is real soon (like next week).

Never had a problem. Usually need a 6-point socket to get a good grip. Don't use a 12-point. Next option might be a pair of vice grips securely clamped in place and whack it hard with a sharp blow from a hammer to "shock" the bolt to break it loose. Sometimes I have even used a pipe wrench on some bolts to get them free if I could get the wrench on the head.

Put some kind of penetrating oil on the back side of the bolt where the threads come through the floor and let it sit a while.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-12-2018, 07:09 PM Thread Starter
 
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One of my problems with penetrating oil is gravity. It won't allow the oil to soak upward into the nut bracket. I did do this from the interior, but I don't think there is enough clearance for it to run down around the head to the thread. The head of bolt is so short and close to floor, it's hard to maneuver a tool on it. I did grind down a socket to get the chamfer edge off and more of a working flat socket.
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-13-2018, 12:36 PM
 
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I had a 66 that I needed out, had no choice but to use an air compressor and impact wrench with a 6 point impact socket. Had it there for a minute until it came out. I would start with the penetrating oil and then you'll need an impact gun. Tough one!
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-13-2018, 01:51 PM
 
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Crawl under and spray the center of the nearly domino shaped spot welded on anchors with Kroil from the bottom side. Kroil will actually creep into the threads.

Have used Kano Products Kroil and WeatherPruf for the last 25 years, very good products.

Appears Kano Labs is running a deal on just 2 big cans of Kroil.

Google Deal
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-13-2018, 07:02 PM
 
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Used to be a product called i believe mothers miracle oil. my original seat belts and fisher body buttons had been sitting in a carport for 45 years. The blue belts had turned a redish grey from the rusted rollers in the locks. They were stiff as boards also buttons were frozen. So i soaked them in a pan in miracle oi lfor a few months working the rollers and buttons every week until they freed up the fabric and labels became pliable again and the fisher body carriage cleaned like nearly new with a free as sowroom spring. A few weeks to dry the oil out and some Raven hair die and i ended up with beautiful driver grade black belts that work perfect and have the original dates and tags still on.

Just goes to show never give up on anything may take some time and effort but when you get a working factory part over the chinese junk they are selling its worth th wait and elbow grease.

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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-13-2018, 07:09 PM
 
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I needed to transfer the reinforcement plates to the new floor panel under the rear seat and one of the bolts was very stubborn. I eventually decided to stop fighting it and welded the bolt head to the seat belt bracket and then used a hammer to loosen it. That solution worked for me since I was replacing the seal belts anyway.

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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-17-2018, 03:55 PM Thread Starter
 
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Thanks for the suggestions. I'll have to work on it.
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-18-2018, 03:18 PM
 
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Just took my rear belts out a couple of months ago in my '70. I think that's one of the hardest things I have ever done. I soaked them in penetrating oil for a couple of days and took to them with a 1/2 inch drive breaker and a six point socket. Finally got them out but I think my whole body hurt for 3 days.
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